Quick-E+

[LNot]

Hi,
First time poster here.
I have a 2018 quick e which I use a Badass box to tune to over ride the 25km/hr governed limit ( I am based in Australia). My bike has suddenly reverted to being governed at 15km/hr for no reason. I have removed the box and adjusted the magnet and the problem persists. Could anyone shed any light on the possible issue or solution? Thanks.

 

[Alan111S]

Hi,
First time poster here.
I have a 2018 quick e which I use a Badass box to tune to over ride the 25km/hr governed limit ( I am based in Australia). My bike has suddenly reverted to being governed at 15km/hr for no reason. I have removed the box and adjusted the magnet and the problem persists. Could anyone shed any light on the possible issue or solution? Thanks.

Yes. Did you do anything with the battery?

I test rode a bike which had the same issue. Look back through previous posts here. It has gone back to factory mode. Any dealer can fix it with a secret button combination. The dealer I was using for the demo is Giant South Yarra, so they know for sure.

 

[LNot]

Yes. Did you do anything with the battery?

I test rode a bike which had the same issue. Look back through previous posts here. It has gone back to factory mode. Any dealer can fix it with a secret button combination. The dealer I was using for the demo is Giant South Yarra, so they know for sure.

Thanks for that. The only thing out of the ordinary I have done is left the charger plugged in for a whole 24 hours, however the bike was lift in the garage for 2 days in very hot days (probably 45deg+ in the garage)
My kids have been known to fiddle with the buttons though.

The other problem I’m having is the metal bars under the seat give you a little electric shock ( like a mild form of electric fence) when the battery is charging.

 

[Hoseroony]

Power on, and then press the lights button 5 times. That's what worked for me anyway. Posted about it in another thread here.

 

[LNot]

worked a treat.
Thanks

 

[roguex]

So I installed the 48T chainring. Seems like you can't fit it with a chainguard at the same time. To do that you need to put the chainring on the inside of the bracket with the chainguard on the outside, but that causes the chainring to hit the plastic mud guard of the motor. It fits on the outside of the bracket fine though. Is anyone else seeing this too?
Also with it on the outside I reckon you can fit a 50T ring. I might try that sometime.

 

[Alan111S]

Ah, just as well I didn't buy a guard then. I thought it might be tight. I think 48T might be enough for me.

Funnily enough I have found that my cadence has gone up to about 68 to 70, and there is a bit of a gap between the second and third highest gears, where I spend most of the time. Maybe 50T would work better.

 

[roguex]

Ah, just as well I didn't buy a guard then. I thought it might be tight. I think 48T might be enough for me.

Funnily enough I have found that my cadence has gone up to about 68 to 70, and there is a bit of a gap between the second and third highest gears, where I spend most of the time. Maybe 50T would work better.

I think you can still put a guard on top of the chainring with a spacer.
I'm going to order a 50T and a 52T and test those out. I need to adjust my rear derailleur as putting the chainring on the outside has caused my gears to slip/jump.

 

[Alan111S]

Is there anybody using a different tuning mod that is not a Speedbox 2? If so, can you try the Ridecontrol app and see if it records more than just Speed and Elevation?

 

[Slow Rider]

Is there anybody using a different tuning mod that is not a Speedbox 2? If so, can you try the Ridecontrol app and see if it records more than just Speed and Elevation?

A friend let me borrow his badassbox 4 to try on my Explore+ (limited to 20mph), and I rode around with it today. It recorded everything in the RideControl app the same as always, with the cadence, kph and total distance all incorrect. That's the way the badassbox is supposed to work though, once you get over around 18kph it starts tricking your cadence sensor into thinking you are going half as fast as you really are.

The Explore 20 mph limit is a little frustrating, I hit it at about 60rpm in top gear. With the badassbox, the power assist didn't cutout at all, and it was great to be able to cruise at 70rpm going around 23mph. All good things come to an end though, have to give him back his box tonight.

 

[Alan111S]

A friend let me borrow his badassbox 4 to try on my Explore+ (limited to 20mph), and I rode around with it today. It recorded everything in the RideControl app the same as always, with the cadence, kph and total distance all incorrect. That's the way the badassbox is supposed to work though, once you get over around 18kph it starts tricking your cadence sensor into thinking you are going half as fast as you really are.

The Explore 20 mph limit is a little frustrating, I hit it at about 60rpm in top gear. With the badassbox, the power assist didn't cutout at all, and it was great to be able to cruise at 70rpm going around 23mph. All good things come to an end though, have to give him back his box tonight.

Yes, right - I watched a Youtube of the Badass box and yeah I can see that would mess up the stats. Thanks for the info though.

So the only other option is the Redped ( I think that is the right model for the Quick-E 2019)

 

[Kristjan]

So the only other option is the Redped ( I think that is the right model for the Quick-E 2019)

What about Bikespeed-RS?
https://www.bikespeed.de/RS_en.html#compatibility

 

[roguex]

So I've been thinking about getting a Shimano Alfine 11 speed IGH for my quick-e. Did some reading and measurements and it looks like it will fit. I asked LBS and they said yeah it should be doable and they also thought that this bike should've come with an IGH to begin with given the rider it's targeting. They probably didn't go that way to keep the price down.

It's a pricey upgrade, but looking at the gear ratios for the 11sp it would actually give me a much higher top speed using the stock 42T chainring plus it would allow me to change gears at a standstill the lights.

I asked about the rims that came with the quick-e and if I could buy a new rim for the conversion, they said that they don't sell those rims at all, even if you crash the bike they couldn't even get replacements from giant. They said you just need to buy a matching size from a different brand.

With the IGH this bike would be quite the ride. I might try to get the parts online and get the LBS to lace the wheel and put it together.

 

[cheekee]

So I've been thinking about getting a Shimano Alfine 11 speed IGH for my quick-e. Did some reading and measurements and it looks like it will fit. I asked LBS and they said yeah it should be doable and they also thought that this bike should've come with an IGH to begin with given the rider it's targeting. They probably didn't go that way to keep the price down.

It's a pricey upgrade, but looking at the gear ratios for the 11sp it would actually give me a much higher top speed using the stock 42T chainring plus it would allow me to change gears at a standstill the lights.

I asked about the rims that came with the quick-e and if I could buy a new rim for the conversion, they said that they don't sell those rims at all, even if you crash the bike they couldn't even get replacements from giant. They said you just need to buy a matching size from a different brand.

With the IGH this bike would be quite the ride. I might try to get the parts online and get the LBS to lace the wheel and put it together.

I like the idea of the Alfine hub for my dirt E+2.

Paired with the greenped dongle it might make a really nice bike.

 

[JRA]

I installed an Alfine 11 Di2 on my V2 bike.



Long story short it was an expensive trial and I have gone back to a conventional cassette system.

I will warn anyone considering any Alfine hub to make sure they use the correct tab washers for their drop outs design. There are three different versions and if you use the wrong ones, especially under the additional torque applied by the assist, the hub will not stay engaged properly.

 

[cheekee]

I installed an Alfine 11 Di2 on my V2 bike.

View attachment 29301

Long story short it was an expensive trial and I have gone back to a conventional cassette system.

I will warn anyone considering any Alfine hub to make sure they use the correct tab washers for their drop outs design. There are three different versions and if you use the wrong ones, especially under the additional torque applied by the assist, the hub will not stay engaged properly.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[Gator]

Wow, what a difference with a Speedbox 2 and 48T Chainring. First time out today and found myself whirring away at 75+rpm just to go fast. Calmed down a bit now though. Am finding it interesting that you have to start thinking ahead a lot more and planning what speed is appropriate for different situations.

Discovered my front wheel was a little loose - feels like a lot of play in the bearing. But easily fixed once you realise.

Bought the MIK rack and plan to get some panniers - although I commute, I will probably only bring a laptop twice a week, so am probably just looking at non-urban panniers. Most of the urban ones come in singles and are ridiculously expensive.

Any recommendations? Ortlieb look good quality.

I have the Timbuk2

https://www.rei.com/product/112681/timbuk2-tandem-panniers-pair

Price has gone up but you might be able to find them somewhere else cheaper.

 

[Yes]

Hi all, I've been following this thread for a few months. I've been caught between all different bikes for a 40km round trip commute. From the Giant Fathom e mtb, which has great components and motor for the price, to an Orbea Gain, which aren't out in Aus as yet. Each time I'm ready to buy, I try out the bike and keep getting held back by the weight/feel of the bike above 25km/h... I'm looking to get moderate exercise, so I don't think detuning is the way to go.
I guess I'm looking for some feedback from those with the Quick E on their experience on the flats after the motor cut out. Obviously it's more difficult to ride than a regular bike, but how are you going with it? What speed can you maintain without pushing yourself to exhaustion etc?
Great thread by the way... So much good info here.

 

[Alan111S]

Hi all, I've been following this thread for a few months. I've been caught between all different bikes for a 40km round trip commute. From the Giant Fathom e mtb, which has great components and motor for the price, to an Orbea Gain, which aren't out in Aus as yet. Each time I'm ready to buy, I try out the bike and keep getting held back by the weight/feel of the bike above 25km/h... I'm looking to get moderate exercise, so I don't think detuning is the way to go.
I guess I'm looking for some feedback from those with the Quick E on their experience on the flats after the motor cut out. Obviously it's more difficult to ride than a regular bike, but how are you going with it? What speed can you maintain without pushing yourself to exhaustion etc?
Great thread by the way... So much good info here.

Hi Yes, Welcome to the thread. To be honest above 25km/h without assistance, you can get definitely get some exercise and it is possible to ride round 28-30km/h as long as you are on the flat and you don't have any headwind. What I found good about the assist is that when there are challenging conditions, the motor helps you maintain a minimum 22-25km/h consistently, which is good for commuting because you can plan that you will definitely be somewhere within a certain timeframe.

However, I would say your assumption that detuning means you won't get exercise is not correct. Even without the limit it takes some effort to get up to the high 30s and by dropping the assist level down from Sport+ back to say Eco+, you will also really notice the extra effort you need to put in. So to give you an idea, the first time I rode derestricted on my 40km round trip commute I came home with 10% battery left, now it's more like 40% left because I've got fitter and I also move the assist back when I'm cruising along.

 

[roguex]

I installed an Alfine 11 Di2 on my V2 bike.

View attachment 29301

Long story short it was an expensive trial and I have gone back to a conventional cassette system.

I will warn anyone considering any Alfine hub to make sure they use the correct tab washers for their drop outs design. There are three different versions and if you use the wrong ones, especially under the additional torque applied by the assist, the hub will not stay engaged properly.

Were there other reasons why you went back? The Alfine 11/8sp comes in 2 versions, the normal and a newer one stronger one specifically rated for ebikes. Which one did you have?

https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/alfine-s7050s705-di2.html

The SG-S705 is the normal one and the SG-S7051-11 is the ebike one. It states

• Improved internal structure for better gear engagement
• Improved performance for both E-BIKE and non-E-BIKE usage

Also what chainring/sprocket ratio were you running? I've read Shimano say you should run it above 2 ie 38/18 or 42/20.
Some are running it with ratios of 1.6 ie 32/20 and it's causing the hub to blow up.