Quick-E+

Can any aussie quick-e 2019 owners comment on their tyre size? I checked mine yesterday and it says 27.5x2.25". I ask as the giant website lists them as 27.5x2.35".
Just wondering if I the bike shop put on the wrong size when they built it, or if the they do actually come with Schwalbe G-One Allround, 27.5x2.25" and the website is wrong.
 
Probably a typo on the website, I was working on those numbers rather than looking at the actual tyres.

On another note, Speedbox 2 now fitted to mine. Wow.
 
Probably a typo on the website, I was working on those numbers rather than looking at the actual tyres.

On another note, Speedbox 2 now fitted to mine. Wow.

Nice. I did try the speed sensor hack and it seemed to work giving me power as fast as I could spin in the highest gear. Btw I really need to get a bigger chain ring on this asap, I've ordered a 48T one, I might order a 50T too and see if it fits. They seem relatively cheap.

I did get a flat on my ride to work in. It was in the rear, I did manage to get it off and replace the tube, but it was a real struggle. Any tips on removing and getting the rear wheel back on?
Thanks
 
.
Nice. I did try the speed sensor hack and it seemed to work giving me power as fast as I could spin in the highest gear. Btw I really need to get a bigger chain ring on this asap, I've ordered a 48T one, I might order a 50T too and see if it fits. They seem relatively cheap.

I did get a flat on my ride to work in. It was in the rear, I did manage to get it off and replace the tube, but it was a real struggle. Any tips on removing and getting the rear wheel back on?
Thanks

I've just ordered a 48T chainring as well after my first commute with the Speedbox fitted, and a bigger chainguard to suit. On Tuesday I took 60 minutes to get to work without the Speedbox, this morning it took me 40 minutes (both total elapsed time). Huge improvement.

Flat tyres...practice makes perfect! To get the rear wheel off, shift to the smallest cog before removing the wheel, this helps. On our bikes, after you remove a wheel DO NOT squeeze the brake lever for that wheel without a spacer or similar in the caliper. This is because of the hydraulic brakes.

Here's a good video guide on fixing flats.
 
.

I've just ordered a 48T chainring as well after my first commute with the Speedbox fitted, and a bigger chainguard to suit. On Tuesday I took 60 minutes to get to work without the Speedbox, this morning it took me 40 minutes (both total elapsed time). Huge improvement.

Flat tyres...practice makes perfect! To get the rear wheel off, shift to the smallest cog before removing the wheel, this helps. On our bikes, after you remove a wheel DO NOT squeeze the brake lever for that wheel without a spacer or similar in the caliper. This is because of the hydraulic brakes.

Here's a good video guide on fixing flats.
Thanks, watching those videos makes it look easy lol.

What chainring and chain guard did you get?
 
Do you need to get ebike specific wheels or can you fit normal ones? I know there are a lot of diy ebikes that use normal rims. Is there a list of wheels that people can recommend?
I think the rims are ok but spokes need to be heavy duty. I wanted the new Giant rims because I was going to go tubeless. No so worried about it any more.
 
Wow, what a difference with a Speedbox 2 and 48T Chainring. First time out today and found myself whirring away at 75+rpm just to go fast. Calmed down a bit now though. Am finding it interesting that you have to start thinking ahead a lot more and planning what speed is appropriate for different situations.

Discovered my front wheel was a little loose - feels like a lot of play in the bearing. But easily fixed once you realise.

Bought the MIK rack and plan to get some panniers - although I commute, I will probably only bring a laptop twice a week, so am probably just looking at non-urban panniers. Most of the urban ones come in singles and are ridiculously expensive.

Any recommendations? Ortlieb look good quality.
 
Wow, what a difference with a Speedbox 2 and 48T Chainring. First time out today and found myself whirring away at 75+rpm just to go fast. Calmed down a bit now though. Am finding it interesting that you have to start thinking ahead a lot more and planning what speed is appropriate for different situations.

Discovered my front wheel was a little loose - feels like a lot of play in the bearing. But easily fixed once you realise.

Bought the MIK rack and plan to get some panniers - although I commute, I will probably only bring a laptop twice a week, so am probably just looking at non-urban panniers. Most of the urban ones come in singles and are ridiculously expensive.

Any recommendations? Ortlieb look good quality.


I bought the Ortlieb roller bag plus, the one with the canvas style texture. It's very good quality wise and looks like it could really take a beating.
Most of the good quality panniers are very expensive, I paid around $200aud for the pair.


How did fitting the 48T chainring go? Any issues with chain length? How much faster do you think you are going by using the 48T? Mine should be here in a week or two.
 
I will check those Ortlieb ones out. The Granite Black looks like a good match for the Quick-E.

So the Chainring fitted well - I've got rid of the guard, as I don't plan on jumping any kerbs etc. The chain is just about long enough. Have a look at the pics attached.

I found that when I refitted the rear wheel recently ( I also had a rear puncture) the gear hanger had moved a bit and the wheel didn't sit straight - The speed sensor was catching and over 30km/h there was a thunk / thunk noise.

Anyway, just be careful that when you put the rear wheel back on, tighten up the gear hanger first before installing the wheel and then make sure the wheel is centered.

So I reckon tomorrow she'll be a lot smoother now I sorted that out.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20190114_214943796.jpg
    IMG_20190114_214943796.jpg
    2 MB · Views: 768
  • IMG_20190114_214743800.jpg
    IMG_20190114_214743800.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 785
So I got the dreaded "spanner" icon this morning on the way to work, came on during a long uphill climb at the end of my ride.

Turned it off and on again, the icon wasn't there. Scanned it with the Ride Control app. Display, motor and battery all showed the big red X...then the message popped up about taking the bike to the dealer.

Crap...will remove Speedbox and take it in. But have to get home today first, might be a slow heavy ride!
 
I've found that with the Speedbox 2 installed, I don't get as many stats in the RideControl app.

Previously the app would show Speed, Cadence, Watts, Heart Rate (0, not used by me), Elevation, Battery Usage.
Now it shows Speed, Cadence is 0, Watts is 0, Heart Rate (0, not used by me), Elevation, Battery Usage is 0.

I will email the vendor and ask them about this.

The Elapsed Time has shown 37 minutes each trip but once shared to Strava, the time taken is more like 44 minutes.

So it looks like the Speedbox 2 is messing with some of the Stats......

I also know that Giant dealers can download data from the bikes, so don't expect to be able to claim under warranty once you have installed a Speedbox.

@zoomzoom, You may be lucky - in fact, it is highly likely to be a loose connection, so removing it might resolve the issue. I know that when I was fitting mine, I double checked every connection to make sure it wasn't going to come apart.

Best of Luck
 
I'm hoping it's a loose connection. Will take my time having a look at it. Still on the fence about going to the dealer, think I'll remove the Speedbox2 and try my luck.

The only stat messed up on mine with the Speedbox2 fitted is average speed, everything else appears to be OK.

What version box do you have? Mine says Giant 2019 on it.
 
I'm hoping it's a loose connection. Will take my time having a look at it. Still on the fence about going to the dealer, think I'll remove the Speedbox2 and try my luck.

The only stat messed up on mine with the Speedbox2 fitted is average speed, everything else appears to be OK.

What version box do you have? Mine says Giant 2019 on it.

Same here Giant 2019 - am using the Android Ridecontrol App
 
So I got the dreaded "spanner" icon this morning on the way to work, came on during a long uphill climb at the end of my ride.

Turned it off and on again, the icon wasn't there. Scanned it with the Ride Control app. Display, motor and battery all showed the big red X...then the message popped up about taking the bike to the dealer.

Crap...will remove Speedbox and take it in. But have to get home today first, might be a slow heavy ride!

I got the spanner too. Except I don't have the speedbox I just taped the speed sensor to the crank. It displayed speed sensor error while I was riding and said please see dealer or service something like that. I turned it off and on and it was ok for another 10km. I used the ridecontrol app and it showed no errors.

But it's concerning that the speedbox is showing that. I thought it's supposed to be 100% compatible and show no errors.
 
I'll update once I've investigated further. Had the spanner come back again and managed to catch the alert saying speed sensor error.

Hopefully just a loose connection.
 
I emailed the Speedbox 2 guys:-

Hi Jiri

I recently purchased a Speedbox 2 for Giant 2019 through https://www.ebiketuning.com/

My bike is a Giant Quick-E 2019 (Australian 25km/h Version)

I'm generally happy with the product but I have found that it is messing up the stats in the Giant RideControl app.

Previously the app would show Speed, Cadence, Watts, Heart Rate (0, not used by me), Elevation, Battery Usage.
Now it shows Speed, Cadence is 0, Watts is 0, Heart Rate (0, not used by me), Elevation, Battery Usage is 0.

Their reply:-

Hi Alan,
ah yea we already heard about it.
It seems like SpeedBox is not compatible with Giant app.
I am sorry.

Kind Regards,

Jiri Voldan
Sales Representative
 
After a bit or reading up I understand why this is - any Tuning solution is actually generating fake signals. The correct values are shown on the display - unfortunately the solution doesn't go as far as writing the correct values to the Bluetooth interfaces :(

PS. - Had my first 'annoyed' cyclist call me a cheat today. Doesn't bother me as I am saving about 15 to 20 minutes on a 55 minute commute. LOL. Funniest thing was I had the assist on 'Normal' not 'Sport+' ...
 
After a bit or reading up I understand why this is - any Tuning solution is actually generating fake signals. The correct values are shown on the display - unfortunately the solution doesn't go as far as writing the correct values to the Bluetooth interfaces :(

PS. - Had my first 'annoyed' cyclist call me a cheat today. Doesn't bother me as I am saving about 15 to 20 minutes on a 55 minute commute. LOL. Funniest thing was I had the assist on 'Normal' not 'Sport+' ...

I had strange looks too, not so far as to call me a "cheat" though. Do these wankers thinks it's a race or something? Seriously some of the bike riders in Melbourne are complete tossers. Especially at traffic lights when they try to jockey for pole position lol.
 
I had strange looks too, not so far as to call me a "cheat" though. Do these wankers thinks it's a race or something? Seriously some of the bike riders in Melbourne are complete tossers. Especially at traffic lights when they try to jockey for pole position lol.

Yes and what's amusing is that sure some do go quite fast but when they take off, it takes 20 seconds to get in their cleats . I was actually thinking - can I avoid St Kilda Road? But I think I'll just relax a bit there - I turn off towards Albert Park and it's no issue once down there.
 
Back