Question about Grease !

[Dima]

Is it kind of "must be used " grease ? ( ideal ) or i may use other ( lets say local ) grease . This for parts inside of engine , right ?

 

[fritz katzenjammer]

Synthetic means they can charge too much for it but it won’t degrade any plastic components within the assembly, which a petroleum based lubricant might do.

low temperature means it otherwise nothing special.

you could likely get away with a silicone based grease but why not use the recommended stuff, they specified it for a reason.

 

[RunForTheHills]

I think low temperature refers to the temperature range that the grease is designed to have the appropriate viscosity at. It probably breaks down and is not effective at higher temperatures. There is also dielectric grease that is designed to be non-conductive around electrical components.

 

[Dima]

I think low temperature refers to the temperature range that the grease is designed to have the appropriate viscosity at. It probably breaks down and is not effective at higher temperatures. There is also dielectric grease that is designed to be non-conductive around electrical components.

so it may be bad idea to use it when +30 , 50 С?

 

[RunForTheHills]

No, your motor should shutdown before it gets so hot that it could damage the motor (or the grease).

 

[Marcela]

Anybody know what this stuff looks like? I opened a Hentech motor and it had some clear silicone looking grease with what looked like graphite mixed in. Wonder if it the Bosch stuff.

 

[PedalUma]

This is the stuff to use. It is synthetic high temp silicone that works at low temp also.

 

[Gionnirocket]

This is the stuff to use. It is synthetic high temp silicone that works at low temp also.
View attachment 203517

That's hysterical

No where near the correct viscosity/properties to lubricate gears

 

[Gionnirocket]

Is it kind of "must be used " grease ? ( ideal ) or i may use other ( lets say local ) grease . This for parts inside of engine , right ?View attachment 203504

You're better off sticking with manufacturer recommendations. They often take into consideration things such as plastics that may be affected.
On the Bafangs motors many use Mobil SCH100.. a high quality NLGI 2 synthetic grease suitable for electric motors as there is no manufacturer recommendation.
Also used is John Deere Cornhead grease which is a gear grease but that requires some caution as it's thixotropic (thins to oil like viscosity under mechanical pressure)

 

[DaveMatthews]

 

[Dima]

So this grease for the plastic parts ( but i have not found grease for the motor shafts in stores , i mean original bosh ) What do you use ? ( or maybe know original )

 

[fritz katzenjammer]

This is the stuff to use. It is synthetic high temp silicone that works at low temp also.
View attachment 203517

That’s not a good idea at all. That’s for slow moving, sliding parts at elevated temperatures.

its not for rotating parts like bearing or parts that shear their lubricants like gears.

 

[fritz katzenjammer]

The tube shows it to be a low temperature synthetic grease.

it has to work at low temperatures, high temperature grease may be way too thick at the temperatures your motor operates at.

its synthetic, likely to keep it from ruining your polymer gear train or causing the seals to swell and distort.

some qualified engineer carefully selected this lubricant to do the job that badly needs doing. Without the knowledge that he possesses regarding gear loading, materiel compatibility and operating temperatures how can we second guess him?

I spent a lot of years doing this kind of work in the automotive industry and have been constantly amazed at the amount of damage people do to their equipment using incorrect chemicals because they think they know better than the people that designed the equipment to begin with.

yes, I’ve seen some horrific screw ups by the factory resulting in long runs of failing product but as a rule shouldn’t we trust what they tell us and use the recommended fluids?



by the way… those engines? I told them that cam chain tensioner was a bad design, but they wouldn’t listen.

 

[PCeBiker]

by the way… those engines? I told them that cam chain tensioner was a bad design, but they wouldn’t listen.

I didn't like the cam belt tensioner on my last car.

With all the other timing belts I had dealt with, the timing belt tensioner was only to provide the proper idler pulley tension for the install, then the pulley was locked in place.

My last car had dual cams and needed an "active" idler pulley where the spring was always tensioning the pulley.

Apparently with a dual cams, the belt needs slack in it so the belt teeth don't get ripped off from the vibration caused by two cams.

It was REALLY Difficult to install the spring without stretching the hell out of it then the belt is too loose, the belt skips teeth, then the timing is off.

It was just I crappy little spring that should have been reengineered into something Specially built for its critical purpose.

 

[Chargeride]

Electric valve openers were invented, why didnt they take off?
They would vastly improve the simplicity and implosion consequence of engines.

 

[PCeBiker]

amazed at the amount of damage people do to their equipment using incorrect chemicals

I've done that.

My 5-speed transmission called for 80W-90 gear oil that was too thick when it was -20°C and I would grind all my gears for the first 20 minutes every time I started the car.

I found out that Sycro-Mesh oil would work in my transmission because it didn't have hypoid gears with shear forces, so the extra oil additives weren't needed.

The Sulfur based additives are toxic and Fricken Stink anyway.

But the Sycro-Mesh oil was over $20 a liter, and I didn't want to spend eighty bucks on an oil change, so I did more research and found out that older Mazda's could use ATF Type F in the winter.
(The "F" stands for Ford Friction modified. Or Fordza in my case from when Ford owned Mazda)

So I bought 3 liters of ATF type F for five bucks a liter, of Lucas Snake Oil Additive for good luck.

It's been working fine for over 20 years now. No leaks and it shifts as smooth as glass.


I've been thinking or re-engineering the wheel.

It's old-school technology and needs a software update because it's no longer compatible with the future.

I'm not gunna reverse engineer the thing, because it will have a Directional Tread that only moves forward in time.

 

[PCeBiker]

Electric valve openers were invented, why didnt they take off?
They would vastly improve the simplicity and implosion consequence of engines.

Because that would give an unfair advantage to those who can't afford or approve of the technology

Same s*it happened with derailleurs but the Power Pedalers finally gave up the battle.

 

[PCeBiker]

Electric valve openers were invented, why didnt they take off?
They would vastly improve the simplicity and implosion consequence of engines.

My Coleman camp stove will get 200 mpg.

It's old-school and will run on regular gasoline that hasn't been denatured.

Alcohol in the gas is unnatural.
Shell Premium Gasoline in Canada hasn't been denatured.

Works great on outboard motors where the alcohol in the gas was wrecking the rubber fuel pump.

 

[PCeBiker]

I've got everything I need to clean, lube, and grease my airplane, harvest my corn, and cut down trees.

All I need now is an airplane and a combine.
I've got the chainsaw, but my ebike keeps asking for it, so I might have to give her some, but just for the winter time.

 

[mclewis1]

Grin (ebikes.ca) recommends Mobilegrease 28 for hub motors they sell that have synthetic gears (I was asking about my Shengyi hub motors). Yeah it's a bit more expensive than the stuff on the shelf at my local stores but one tube will likely last a lifetime unless you're rebuilding motors on a regular basis.

When looking for an appropriate grease - the most important for me was of course not doing any damage to the synthetic gears and any seals, then it was temp range. In my case I was looking for something that wouldn't break down at high temps and would still give me good viscosity at lower temps (at least to -20C). Related to the temp range was the NLGI rating to help keep the grease from being too sticky (fine for big high powered gearboxes but not as desirable in smaller ebike motors).

Interestingly my hub motors are a bit noisier right after being cleaned and relubed but they do soon quiet down. I'm cleaning and relubing each hub motor yearly and now coming up on 4 years on one motor with no discernible or obvious wear.