Putting my trust in my friends here.

[Joe EE]

About to do a DIY. it’s going to have to be front wheel. Rear dropouts are 120 mm. Geared or direct drive? Wattage? I am 230ish. Hillclimber is mandatory but I wanna go fast on the flats too and far. At least a 35 mile round trip. Not interested in mid drives. Been looking for the best kit for the price. Thoughts? Thanks.

 

[JoePah]

I'd go with a geared drive for the front wheel, knowing that you will have to replace those gears in a couple of years. They are lighter and a better fit for the front... If you are looking at steep hills, better get a HD controller and large capcacity battery to provide more amperage.

https://em3ev.com/shop/mac-kit-47v-battery-900-1200w-max/
Cellman has been around for over a decade and offers good value.. But it is mail order from China...

 

[ROJA]

I'm curious what the advantages of FWD on a bike could be. Seems like it would create some spooky/unexpected handling dynamics. Have you ridden one and liked it?

 

[Joe EE]

Hi, the particular bike I have chosen to do this with is... somewhat unique, I should say. It already has unusual riding dynamics but I just really love the bike. I will post a thread when it’s done, in less than a month or so. The main reason I am going with a front wheel kit is that the rear dropouts are only 120 mm apart and I won’t bend the frame to accommodate the typical 135 mm hub motors for the rear.

 

[JoePah]

I'm curious what the advantages of FWD on a bike could be. Seems like it would create some spooky/unexpected handling dynamics. Have you ridden one and liked it?

Having the motor in front makes it easier to remove the rear wheel. And better balance. Just can’t have a lot of power on the front firks.

 

[Joe EE]

Hey Joe, that’s good information. I may be going to work with a local ebike shop on this project. From what I have learned recently by using the Cycle Analyst, you can control finely the rate of acceleration on that front wheel. I believe you could then put a relatively hi powered device up front and not have to worry about spinning that front wheel on the way up to speed. At least that is my understanding as of now. I will learn more by this weekend. It is rather exciting concocting something custom. Having a lot of fun with it. The front forks on this bike are fairly heavy gauge steel.

 

[JRA]

I’ve got over 4K on 1000w front hub motors I got from Grin. Set it up with a good torque arm system and you’ll be fine. Mine are direct drive btw and climbs hills just fine.

 

[Joe EE]

That’s excellent @JRA. Can you tell me your max speed on the flat with that system and roughly what type of range and battery you are using. That would be helpful. Thanks.

 

[JRA]

A lot has to do with the overall package. My road bikes are both drop bar style with 1.7 tires. I find larger diameter wheels to be most efficient at higher speeds to start with.

I suppose I can coax up to 35mph undermotor and pedal power. It is also important to consider the amount of gear inches one needs to pedal efffectivey at whatever speed. High speed is not my focus. I mostly travel in the >23mph range.

I have a 10,5Ah shark battery I got from Grin and run at 25a and 52v. Range is from 17 at full blast averaging 30mph and 35 averaging in the >20 mph range

 

[Joe EE]

A lot has to do with the overall package. My road bikes are both drop bar style with 1.7 tires. I find larger diameter wheels to be most efficient at higher speeds to start with.

I suppose I can coax up to 35mph undermotor and pedal power. It is also important to consider the amount of gear inches one needs to pedal efffectivey at whatever speed. High speed is not my focus. I mostly travel in the >23mph range.

I have a 10,5Ah shark battery I got from Grin and run at 25a and 52v. Range is from 17 at full blast averaging 30mph and 35 averaging in the >20 mph range

Excellent! That is just what I was hoping to hear. Thank you.