Programmable controller for Bafang rear hub??

Hector6150

New Member
Region
USA
Hello All!
I recently bought a kit with a Bafang 1000w rear hub. I'm running a 48v 19ah battery with a Allocomile controller(Basic Chinese) and 500c display. This thing just goes to fast in the PAS levels. What controller could i reasonably get to help tune the speed or power down for the PAS levels? I'm ok with replacing a display also. My controller is HiGo ended. An example is PAS level 1 motors up to 14.8 mph. A little fast just to mosey around on. Any thoughts? I'm new to this but learning fast. It's hard to get a clear answer though.
Thanks!
 
Well first off you bought a fast motor. Next @harryS @AHicks @JES2020 all are familiar with KT Kunteng (sp?) controllers and displays they’ll likely see this and are best suited to giving you good information. I’m impressed but KT and their display/controllers. I’m a Grin eBikes.ca fan but they’re significantly more expensive.
 
Yup! I'm a big KT fan. They are what you are looking for I believe. KT makes a 35 amp controller that is very user configurable, will tame that 1000w hub easily. It WILL need to be used with a KT display. No if's. That's not a big deal as they have some of the better displays available. This is what I'm talking about:


I am NOT promoting this vendor! I don't know them, and I've never dealt with them. It's what's in their add I'm talking about. This waterproof (WP) version of the 35a controller hasn't been available long, so not many know about it, but this IS the one you're looking for as it comes with the large Bafang end you need. I would go with one of their combo kits that include PAS sensors, brake handles, and throttle as they are super cheap and guarantee they will have the correct ends for a clean, easy, no messing around install.

I've been using the non waterproof version for the last several years running a 1000w+ MAC 12t geared hub motor. It's run flawlessly, and I can easily run at 5mph in PAS 1 if desired. Without changing a thing, at wide open throttle, I can feed the MAC about 1300 watts. All that is totally adjustable.

Regarding the display, the LCD8 color is nice, but you should be expecting some washout when riding in direct sunlight. The LCD3 model isn't as pretty, but it's every bit as functional, and is easy to see at all times. I tried a color a while back, but went back to the LCD3 as the more practical display. -Al
 
Thanks guys! Great info. All my research has been leading me to the KT type controllers. I talked to the guy at Grin. To complicated it sounded to me.
Another question though, can you tune it down on the display with the KT or does it need a computer hook up to program? And I don’t care about the looks of the display much, not important to me. Just function.
Thank you guys so much for the info, I feel like I’m getting somewhere!
 
To complicated it sounded to me.
I’m a Grin fan. I believe Grin yo be superior, but I’ve not used KT. The is a significant price difference and from reading only Grin has more features I find useful. However I’m none that believes experience is the best way to have a clear understanding. I have none with KT Al has none with Grin controllers and displays. That said I think Al is the best resource here.
 
Thanks guys! Great info. All my research has been leading me to the KT type controllers. I talked to the guy at Grin. To complicated it sounded to me.
Another question though, can you tune it down on the display with the KT or does it need a computer hook up to program? And I don’t care about the looks of the display much, not important to me. Just function.
Thank you guys so much for the info, I feel like I’m getting somewhere!
No computer necessary, ever! All programming is done with the up/down buttons and display. Sounds like you're after the LCD3 display.
 
Keep us posted! If (when!) you get into trouble with the terrible chinglish used in the owner's manual, will be happy to guide you through that mess when you start sorting it out. -Al
 
Keep us posted! If (when!) you get into trouble with the terrible chinglish used in the owner's manual, will be happy to guide you through that mess when you start sorting it out. -Al
Well, that one you posted didn’t last long. It says no longer available. Wanted to get your opinion. Will this one work?
 
The big difference between that new 30a style and the 35a, is the size of the case and the number of Mosfets (30a is 9 mosfets I think, and the 35a is 12 mosfets). So the 35a is quite a bit sturdier, has more reserve capacity. Would the 30a work? Probably, but speaking for myself, the reserve power available with the 35a will never be something you wish you didn't have.

Here's another 35a
/itm/225013653099?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D240365%26meid%3Daa89efbf661e46a294c2b5f63c5cdf92%26pid%3D101113%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D225013640533%26itm%3D225013653099%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2563228%26algv%3DDefaultOrganicWeb&_trksid=p2563228.c101113.m2108

35a may take a little longer to source, but with your 1000w motor, will probably be worth your time.... -Al
 
Well, my vocabulary is growing on ebike terminology! Lol. I think I'm running into a new problem. My motor cable is a L1019 motor plug. Every controller I'm seing uses a Julet three prong style. The Grin's use the L1019, but boy are they pricey. Not including the "old" style display.
So..... It doesn't look possible to adapt this wire, or even splice. It's apples to onions on this one.
 
Given he doesn't seem to want the speed what's the point in 35A? (not snarky genuinely interested in your logic)
I did say the 30 would likely work. My logic is if he's running a 1000w motor using a 30a controller rated for 1000w max, there's no "overhead" available. The 35a is rated for up to 1500w max, would let him tow a trailer for instance, or feel free if there was a need for a little abuse if it became necessary. I think the safety margin available for the difference in price is easily worth it.
 
Well, my vocabulary is growing on ebike terminology! Lol. I think I'm running into a new problem. My motor cable is a L1019 motor plug. Every controller I'm seing uses a Julet three prong style. The Grin's use the L1019, but boy are they pricey. Not including the "old" style display.
So..... It doesn't look possible to adapt this wire, or even splice. It's apples to onions on this one.
There's a better than average chance the motor cable isn't going to reach the controller anyway. I'm betting if you can't find a 35a controller with the right motor connector, you'll be able to find a short extension/adapter with the right connectors to work for your application. Worst case is you could use the extension with correct motor connector to extend the controller lead via splicing.
 
Well Al dislikes the CA3 but I have several and really like the fact it provides me with better data. From reading. The other advantages of the Grin sine wave are the range of batteries a single controller can use. Next the support available blows every other controller maker away. I looked at one source for the KT and it was near $100. I think you get what you pay for with Grin. I don’t need a pretty color screen. I find it easier to use my computer than fussing with a display. But the CA displays can do the setup.
 
I talked to the folks at Grin and they recommended the Baserunner or the Frankenrunner, I think it was called.
 
This all started with my riding (gang)lol, friends. They all ride Himiway bikes. They were able to turn theirs down through the display. So I was looking for an option to do the same.
And, here we are now. lol
I'm not expecting much as I know this market, dominated by Chinese makers, is still new as far as aftermarket build ups and flexibility. Glad to see some American makers stepping up.
 
When I'm wrong, I'm REALLY WRONG!!!!! !!!WTF!!!

Grinfineon series DISCONTINUED! WHAT A F-ing shame!
 
Back