You can also try spinning the pedals backwards 1/4 to 1/2 revolution to trigger the motor cutoff. I don’t find it to be a problem on my original Cross Current which admittedly only has half the power of the Hyper Fat. I think that the controller tuning has to compromise between responsiveness and feeling that delay to motor cutoff. I deal with lots of threats to my safety and I have a feeling that if the motor cutoff every time I stopped pedaling for 1/2 second the bike would feel annoyingly surgey.
Powerful Fat Tire E-bike w/ Torque sensor from Juiced Bikes
- Thread starter Ravi Kempaiah
- Start date
You can also try spinning the pedals backwards 1/4 to 1/2 revolution to trigger the motor cutoff. I don’t find it to be a problem on my original Cross Current which admittedly only has half the power of the Hyper Fat. I think that the controller tuning has to compromise between responsiveness and feeling that delay to motor cutoff. I deal with lots of threats to my safety and I have a feeling that if the motor cutoff every time I stopped pedaling for 1/2 second the bike would feel annoyingly surgey.
I think it's not so pronounced in the other levels, perhaps getting less so as you approach ECO.
Went on another test ride today.
Rode about 14.2 miles.
It was an out and back round trip.
Total Ascent showing 693 ft, Total Descent 676--don't know why they are showing so much different.
Somewhat hilly north of Seattle.
Had the battery turned off as much as possible.
Naturally, I was going unpowered downhill and on the flat, but also on slight or short inclines.
Only needed the battery for 2.3 miles.
My condition can be somewhat extrapolated from the following: 68, 40 lbs overweight, regular ebiking for the past 3 years at about 50 miles/week on average.
Kept the headlights off at all times.
Stock tires at 15 psi (will do another test at 25 or 30 to see the difference (did do the test at 30 psi--almost no difference)), full fenders, rack, two bags with at least a couple lbs of stuff, misc extras another couple of lbs, 220 lbs - me and my clothes. Total weight of me, bike, etc. roughly 295.
Total battery usage was 57 Wh, 0.9 Ah, & 0.9 V.
With a total usable 690 (out of 835) Wh at 35 degrees F it appears that I could theoretically go roughly 172 miles before needing a recharge; all things being equal, which of course they are not. If nothing else, my legs would cramp up long before that.
Am I putting undue stress on the electronics with the turning off and on so much (the trip took roughly a dozen on/off cycles)? I would welcome a better way of handling this procedure, but since Tora didn't see fit to give us a level "0" I don't see any other way. Of course, it could be argued that this use of the bike is not what he was targeting. Feel free to chime in if I have forgotten anything.
Rode about 14.2 miles.
It was an out and back round trip.
Total Ascent showing 693 ft, Total Descent 676--don't know why they are showing so much different.
Somewhat hilly north of Seattle.
Had the battery turned off as much as possible.
Naturally, I was going unpowered downhill and on the flat, but also on slight or short inclines.
Only needed the battery for 2.3 miles.
My condition can be somewhat extrapolated from the following: 68, 40 lbs overweight, regular ebiking for the past 3 years at about 50 miles/week on average.
Kept the headlights off at all times.
Stock tires at 15 psi (will do another test at 25 or 30 to see the difference (did do the test at 30 psi--almost no difference)), full fenders, rack, two bags with at least a couple lbs of stuff, misc extras another couple of lbs, 220 lbs - me and my clothes. Total weight of me, bike, etc. roughly 295.
Total battery usage was 57 Wh, 0.9 Ah, & 0.9 V.
With a total usable 690 (out of 835) Wh at 35 degrees F it appears that I could theoretically go roughly 172 miles before needing a recharge; all things being equal, which of course they are not. If nothing else, my legs would cramp up long before that.
Am I putting undue stress on the electronics with the turning off and on so much (the trip took roughly a dozen on/off cycles)? I would welcome a better way of handling this procedure, but since Tora didn't see fit to give us a level "0" I don't see any other way. Of course, it could be argued that this use of the bike is not what he was targeting. Feel free to chime in if I have forgotten anything.
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I have charged my battery to 100% with both the stock 2A and the Grin Tech chargers. After connecting the battery and checking the display they both showed only 53.9V, which almost immediately fell to 53.8V. I believe it is unlikely that both chargers are off by the same amount and by so much (from 54.5V). So, should I be accepting that such a deviation is within reason? Has anyone else done this comparison?
well I found the source of the clicking noise....three of the bolts that hold the rear rotor on backed out and was hitting the frame. Two bolts bent and one sheared off. I checked the remaining three bolts and they were all loose. CHECK YOUR REAR ROTOR BOLTS!!!
hurricane56
Active Member
One would assume that they’d use thread lock on that. Did you have any trouble extracting that bolt?
comradecasey
Member
Jesus...
The bent bolts were loose and were able to be manipulated and removed by hand. I have not extracted the sheared bolt yet, will discuss with Juiced Bike as I'm concerned about the integrity of the threads in the hub. Same thing I thought, there was no thread lock on the threads but there will be now, front and rear.
hurricane56
Active Member
If they're abnormally loose it would be a cause for concern. Like if the screw has a certain amount of play even after is mostly threaded down. After riding ebikes and now fast ebikes for several years, I've learned that all fasteners have to be thread locked down. The other thing I noticed about the hex bolts is they're much more like socket head cap screws vs allen screws with a wider round head you'd see on with other rotor bolts. Maybe it would good measure to replace them?
john peck
Well-Known Member
I've not done so, but I certainly will now!!
hurricane56
Active Member
I checked my bike and there was thread lock used during assembly. I still went around each bolt to check the torque applied and I’d say it was closer to 5nm rather than the 6-8nm specified by Tektro.
I received a quick response to my email to Juiced concerning my issue. Juiced resolved my issue quickly and to my satisfaction. I am receiving great Customer Service from Juiced...what a GREAT company to do business with.
Though they are not as critical to the bike I have had the bolts on my kickstand come loose twice, first when I got the bike and second maybe a week later. The second time I looked closer at how it was connected and discovered that it was put on incorrectly (in my opinion). It seems more sensible to connect it on the inside rather than the outside since the threads are on the kickstand rather than the frame. Otherwise you need to unnecessarily use a couple nuts.
john peck
Well-Known Member
I make a practice of doing a 'pre-flight' inspection of the bike every time I ride, tires, brakes,
cable adjustment, & just looking for anything loose or out of place. I pre-flight my body as
well, doing a regular set of stretches. I had some terrible injuries that I have no desire to repeat.
Precautions have saved me on a number of occasions. Ride focused.
cable adjustment, & just looking for anything loose or out of place. I pre-flight my body as
well, doing a regular set of stretches. I had some terrible injuries that I have no desire to repeat.
Precautions have saved me on a number of occasions. Ride focused.
Klein Rider
Member
Basically...
Throttle only, 13 mph for 30 mi distance, used 41% of battery.
Theoretically (17Ah battery) 70 mi range is possible at 13 mph pace?
Sorry, let me clarify: Extrapolated (from 347 Wh used on a 14.2 mi ride) to almost exactly 30 miles (may be closer to 28 since I do not know how much of an effect 7 degrees F warmer will have on the battery range (690 Wh range was determined at 35 degrees)) on one full charge (17.4 Ah battery, 690+ useable Wh at 42 degrees F, with 290 lb load on motor) while using only the throttle at an average speed of 13.0 mph up and down moderate hills. Another factor that would have some effect is that my computer/display is off by .6 V to the low side as it only shows 53.9 V when fully charged instead of 54.5. So, I would presume that with the default cutoff at 40 V, which effectively shuts the motor off at 43 V, I get .6 V less motor use. Of course, I could lower the cutoff (in integers only), but I would hope that whoever was put in charge of determining the default values has more knowledge of lithium batteries than me.
I'm not sure I would equate my up and downhill average to a 13 mph pace. My 14.2 mile ride consisted mostly of up and down with a total of roughly 600+ ft of ascending and descending. I would think that if you rode on the flat with the cruise control set to 13 mph then you would probably get farther, but how much farther I have no idea.
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Macc, you used a payload of 290 lbs, does it make much of a difference with a payload of 195 lbs??
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