Powerful Fat Tire E-bike w/ Torque sensor from Juiced Bikes

Finally got my bike earlier this afternoon. Happy to say the important things work! Only issues so far is that there is a little bit of play (1/2" of movement) in the battery lockup (not sure if this is intentional or not, doesn't seem to effect the bike working). Also, the front light will occasionally flicker. Only when using the throttle though. Other minor complaints: externally routed rats nest of cables and wires isn't the best looking and not having a quick disconnect on the cable to the rear wheel seems just plain stupid. Even my Sondors Thin had one and that bike cost $600

Not concerned enough to start a support ticket re: headlight flicker since I just got the damn thing, but it isn't confidence inspiring in a thing that has taken this long to get to market. It's a shame too because it seems to be a very good bike from what I can tell from the ride on it this evening, but a competitor to my Evelo Delta it is not.
 
Finally got my bike earlier this afternoon. Happy to say the important things work! Only issues so far is that there is a little bit of play (1/2" of movement) in the battery lockup (not sure if this is intentional or not, doesn't seem to effect the bike working). Also, the front light will occasionally flicker. Only when using the throttle though. Other minor complaints: externally routed rats nest of cables and wires isn't the best looking and not having a quick disconnect on the cable to the rear wheel seems just plain stupid. Even my Sondors Thin had one and that bike cost $600

Not concerned enough to start a support ticket re: headlight flicker since I just got the damn thing, but it isn't confidence inspiring in a thing that has taken this long to get to market. It's a shame too because it seems to be a very good bike from what I can tell from the ride on it this evening, but a competitor to my Evelo Delta it is not.
Also noticed the headlight flicker.
 
I have experienced some "wobbles" that feel like they are from the front end, seem to be while in Sport mode but at slow speeds, or while switching between throttle and pedals. Once I get going faster it goes away. Perhaps this is the sport mode torque-sensor issue that was described? I usually have the suspension fork locked.
I'm getting what I would describe as a slight surging sensation at low speed, low cadence. I suspect this is just a limitation of the controller just as stalling of the motor at low speed, low cadence under load, i.e. going uphill in eco mode is a limitation of the motor?
 
Finally got my bike earlier this afternoon. Happy to say the important things work! Only issues so far is that there is a little bit of play (1/2" of movement) in the battery lockup (not sure if this is intentional or not, doesn't seem to effect the bike working). Also, the front light will occasionally flicker. Only when using the throttle though. Other minor complaints: externally routed rats nest of cables and wires isn't the best looking and not having a quick disconnect on the cable to the rear wheel seems just plain stupid. Even my Sondors Thin had one and that bike cost $600

Not concerned enough to start a support ticket re: headlight flicker since I just got the damn thing, but it isn't confidence inspiring in a thing that has taken this long to get to market. It's a shame too because it seems to be a very good bike from what I can tell from the ride on it this evening, but a competitor to my Evelo Delta it is not.
1/2" of play seems a bit hard to believe. I wasn't particularly happy that I had 1/16" of play. I'll probably just put a strip of inner tubing in the compartment to tighten it up, unless there is some other way to adjust it?
 
1/2" of play seems a bit hard to believe. I wasn't particularly happy that I had 1/16" of play. I'll probably just put a strip of inner tubing in the compartment to tighten it up, unless there is some other way to adjust it?
I have noticed that as well. It might account for some rattling etc. Piece of rubber tubing is a good suggestion.
 
I'm getting what I would describe as a slight surging sensation at low speed, low cadence. I suspect this is just a limitation of the controller just as stalling of the motor at low speed, low cadence under load, i.e. going uphill in eco mode is a limitation of the motor?

Yes, I’ve observed the same thing with the lower power levels and lower speeds. Even with the power in MAC motor this is characteristic of most geared hubs.
 
Finally got my bike earlier this afternoon. Happy to say the important things work! Only issues so far is that there is a little bit of play (1/2" of movement) in the battery lockup (not sure if this is intentional or not, doesn't seem to effect the bike working). Also, the front light will occasionally flicker. Only when using the throttle though. Other minor complaints: externally routed rats nest of cables and wires isn't the best looking and not having a quick disconnect on the cable to the rear wheel seems just plain stupid. Even my Sondors Thin had one and that bike cost $600

Not concerned enough to start a support ticket re: headlight flicker since I just got the damn thing, but it isn't confidence inspiring in a thing that has taken this long to get to market. It's a shame too because it seems to be a very good bike from what I can tell from the ride on it this evening, but a competitor to my Evelo Delta it is not.

The lack of a service disconnect is a total bummer. Almost every bike I’ve seen with a rear hub has one.

I’ve gone to great lengths to not get flats on the rear tire. Tire liner combined with thick inner tube filled with sealant should take care of most scenarios, but I do dread a field tube replacement if I’m on a commute leg by myself.
 
1/2" of play seems a bit hard to believe. I wasn't particularly happy that I had 1/16" of play. I'll probably just put a strip of inner tubing in the compartment to tighten it up, unless there is some other way to adjust it?

I’ll take photos in a bit, but it definitely isn’t 1/16”. Wish it was though!


The lack of a service disconnect is a total bummer. Almost every bike I’ve seen with a rear hub has one.

I’ve gone to great lengths to not get flats on the rear tire. Tire liner combined with thick inner tube filled with sealant should take care of most scenarios, but I do dread a field tube replacement if I’m on a commute leg by myself.

Yeah it seems just plain idiotic to not have one being as every other bike out there has one. My Evelo Delta has a more complicated process for the rear wheel compared to other bikes like my old Sondors as the Evelo has a NuVinci CVT hub, but it’s 100% able to be removed from the bike (I got a flat my second week on some crap tubes from my LBS so that was fun)

But yeah I plan on doing the same thing as you for the rear as that’ll be a PITA when a flat finally happens.
 
Road the HyperFat into work today. I too have noticed the 1/2" raise to plug in the battery. Also the flicker on the headlamp. Ordered Mr Tuffy 3XL Tire Liners and Mongoose MG78253-6 Fat Tire Tube, 26 x 4.0" which should come in next week. I live in a hilly area and its night and day different between the OceanCurrent and this HyperFat. I can actually get up the steep hills. I need to run Strava to see how bad it really is grade wise.
 
Road the HyperFat into work today. I too have noticed the 1/2" raise to plug in the battery. Also the flicker on the headlamp. Ordered Mr Tuffy 3XL Tire Liners and Mongoose MG78253-6 Fat Tire Tube, 26 x 4.0" which should come in next week. I live in a hilly area and its night and day different between the OceanCurrent and this HyperFat. I can actually get up the steep hills. I need to run Strava to see how bad it really is grade wise.
I too have the ocean current and I bet it is like night and day it's got a 30 amp controller compared to the Oc 15 amp. It ought to haul butt, the question is, how long will it last???
 
Yup, controller longevity will be a good question. On my ride yesterday, I ran the bike as hard as I could. Controller temps were up into the 75C range.
 
Yup, controller longevity will be a good question. On my ride yesterday, I ran the bike as hard as I could. Controller temps were up into the 75C range.
Not bad.....NOT, controller needs to breath or spontaneously combust!
 
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My battery fits in nice and tight, no play. No head light flicker either. But then again, my bike still doesn’t run. Still shuts completely down encountering any kind of incline. Tried again tonight. Went about 50 feet to a side hill driveway and shut down. Have not heard from tech except to go over the check list and check the battery connection. I’m being real patient with them, still thinking it might be operator error, but every night I try to ride, same thing happens. So frustrating looking at a $2200.00 boat anchor. Tora suggested it might be the BMS, but have no idea what that is. Not wishing bad on anyone, but am I the only lucky one with this issue?
 
I'm seeing a significant difference between the trip distance shown on my phone app (MotionX-GPS) and that shown on the bike's display. Anyone know which is more likely to be more accurate? And if it is the bike's display that is less accurate are there any instructions on how to gauge that number in Setup that is for adjusting the tire's circumference?
 
This entry is for those of you who might want some additional info on what you can expect from your batteries. I have a 835 Wh 17.4 Ah battery left on its default setup of 54v to 40v cutoff. For the last 4 days I have been riding approximately 14 miles per day for a total of 50.3 miles (as measured by the bike's display, my phone app showed a bit more) before the motor stopped providing any assistance at 43v (I was going uphill at the time so I don't know if it might have still provided some assistance if I was on the flat). The display and headlights continued to work until the end of my ride (41.5v). I presume they would have cut out at 40v. Total Ascent over the 50 miles was about 2400 feet. The temperature ranged between 42 and 48 degrees F (of course, wind chill due to bike speed would have lowered it significantly). The battery was stored indoors at between 58 and 72 between rides. The load was approximately 220 lbs for me and my riding gear, maybe about 75 for the bike, rack, bag, fenders, and misc other stuff. The headlights were on the whole time. The hills were generally mild to moderate. I stayed in ECO the entire time and I have the 12T motor. When the motor stopped assisting the display showed that the battery had discharged 690 Wh. Once I'd pushed the bike up a couple hills and ridden without assist for the last 3 miles or so with the headlights on the discharge showed 692 Wh. So, have I missed any factors? If not, then do the less than ideal temperatures fully account for the difference between the 835 and 692? Oh, and just for the record, other than the issue that I've raised here, I am very happy with the bike except for some other minor issues that don't even need to be mentioned.
 
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This entry is for those of you who might want some additional info on what you can expect from your batteries. I have a 835 Wh 17.4 Ah battery left on its default setup of 54v to 40v cutoff. For the last 4 days I have been riding approximately 14 miles per day for a total of 50.3 miles (as measured by the bike's display, my phone app showed a bit more) before the motor stopped providing any assistance at 43v (I was going uphill at the time so I don't know if it might have still provided some assistance if I was on the flat). The display and headlights continued to work until the end of my ride (41.5v). I presume they would have cut out at 40v. Total Ascent over the 50 miles was about 2400 feet. The temperature ranged between 42 and 48 degrees F (of course, wind chill due to bike speed would have lowered it significantly). The battery was stored indoors at between 58 and 72 between rides. The load was approximately 220 lbs for me and my riding gear, maybe about 75 for the bike, rack, bag, fenders, and misc other stuff. The headlights were on the whole time. The hills were generally mild to moderate. I stayed in ECO the entire time and I have the 12T motor. When the motor stopped assisting the display showed that the battery had discharged 690 Wh. Once I'd pushed the bike up a couple hills and ridden without assist for the last 3 miles or so with the headlights on the discharge showed 692 Wh. So, have I missed any factors? If not, then do the less than ideal temperatures fully account for the difference between the 835 and 692? Oh, and just for the record, other than the issue that I've raised here, I am very happy with the bike except for some other minor issues that don't even need to be mentioned.

Thanks Macc, I'm trying to summarize your data. Is this correct:
  • 835 Wh (17.4Ah fully charged)
  • ride 50 mi (over 4 days x 14 mi)
  • 143 Wh remaining (about 16% battery capacity)
295 lb bike + rider, 45° F ambient temp, Eco Mode, 2400 elevation over 50 mi, 12T motor
 
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My battery (17.4) has drained significantly faster, but that's with shorter stop/start city traffic trips, headlight always on, usually in sport mode, and sometimes using the throttle when taking off. I weigh 200 lbs, and I'm wearing winter motorcycle gear not lycra :) I have started using the gears more and the throttle less. Shifter is very smooth and responsive. Frankly I don't expect to need to ride 30 miles in a day, but if I did I would also use Eco.
 
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