Newbie Hello, BBSHD TROUBLES!

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About 1125 miles on DIY with BBSHD and 52Volt/16Ah Battery. Bafang DPC18 Display. 2008 Specialized Stumpjumper Elite Dual Suspension. Recent sudden and ongoing power loss to a maximum of 400-500 watts as read on display and max speed of 20-21 mph, level ground, no hills. All display settings on fully unlocked maximum speed.

On thumb throttle, response slow and sluggish, no ooomph as previously reliable.
When using PAS, hard.y any increase in speed with PAS 3, 4, or 5, ( the maximum).

Have read a number of posts from members but had not run across this issue discussed. Can anyone out there offer some insight or advice. Much appreciated!
 
About 1125 miles on DIY with BBSHD and 52Volt/16Ah Battery. Bafang DPC18 Display. 2008 Specialized Stumpjumper Elite Dual Suspension. Recent sudden and ongoing power loss to a maximum of 400-500 watts as read on display and max speed of 20-21 mph, level ground, no hills. All display settings on fully unlocked maximum speed.

On thumb throttle, response slow and sluggish, no ooomph as previously reliable.
When using PAS, hard.y any increase in speed with PAS 3, 4, or 5, ( the maximum).

Have read a number of posts from members but had not run across this issue discussed. Can anyone out there offer some insight or advice. Much appreciated!
I will kick this off with responses and ideas to help. Others will join in.

Is there a chance that the wire between the motor and battery has become crimped? Can you remove the battery and check the connections closely? The best connections will be soldered, then sealed with adhesive shrink tube. If the battery is discharging faster than expected & there is a loos of power, this could indicate a short. It may help to think about the electrical as if it were a plumbed water system and now you have a loss of pressure and or flow rate.
 
Hi, Petaluma, Thank you for your reply. After speaking with vendor
about above issues, I disassembled the battery cradle to see up close the
solder and shrink wrap connections. Appears the soldering is intact
but adjacent portion of interior of cradle case a bit melted as though heat from soldering gun or soldering tool brushed against. Don’t know if
a battery surge event, or prior short of some kind may be responsible.
Anybody see something there that a Newbie doesn’t see?
Have emailed original vendor to send a new battery cradle to see if
that may help. (See pics below).

Last week took bike to local good bike shop that does some ebike work
and they removed shrink wrap adjacent to BBSHD ( wiring harness) and did thorough inspection of wiring throughout for bent, crimped, broken, scrunched wiring. They did straighten out, and re-solder,
then individually shrink wrap, a prior repair of speed sensor wire that had previously been crimped and broken. I replaced speed sensor a few weeks ago to rule that out for possible short there. Re-routed main wiring to preclude future crushing or crimping as you suggested.

Road test in neighborhood a couple hours ago, NO IMPROVEMENT OF THIS ISSUE. Thanks again for your suggestions and any input from
other seasoned members.
 

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Re-routed main wiring to preclude future crushing or crimping as you suggested.

Road test in neighborhood a couple hours ago, NO IMPROVEMENT OF THIS ISSUE. Thanks again for your suggestions and any input from
other seasoned members.
Okay, now we are getting somewhere! Great photos. That helps a lot. The vaporized insulation material on the battery connection cradle was not caused by a soldering iron. Those are only less than 700 degrees F. This was caused by arching at welding temperatures, of more like 7,000 degrees. I suspect water incursion on the day the problem was first noticed. For example after the bike was washed with the battery mounted and ON. Two things: 1) With the battery OFF, clean the battery's contacts. 2) The welding arch most likely fried the controller. The part of the controller that fried saved the motor and display. When the new cradle is installed a fuse can be installed on the positive line side. In the future, that will be the first point of failure.
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There’s a long history of failures with those Hailong case connectors. Unfortunately sellers do not warn or make owners aware they should inspect the case to base connectors.

 
Okay, now we are getting somewhere! Great photos. That helps a lot. The vaporized insulation material on the battery connection cradle was not caused by a soldering iron. Those are only less than 700 degrees F. This was caused by arching at welding temperatures, of more like 7,000 degrees. I suspect water incursion on the day the problem was first noticed. For example after the bike was washed with the battery mounted and ON. Two things: 1) With the battery OFF, clean the battery's contacts. 2) The welding arch most likely fried the controller. The part of the controller that fried saved the motor and display. When the new cradle is installed a fuse can be installed on the positive line side. In the future, that will be the first point of failure.
View attachment 109598
Hi Pedaluma,
Thanks for your assistance. Did make certain never to wash bike with battery attached. Was generally careful to keep water away from electrical, but…apparently not well enough. . We are where we are. So I’m assuming moisture managed to get into cradle connections area and voila, just add power! ( Am I understanding correctly?). Unlikely original vendor sells Bafang BBSHD controllers but will check.

Did get a Lekkie Bling Ring 42T Narrow-Wide for this
build from California Ebike, and their input was helpful, so ill
reach out to them to get a replacement controller. Any suggestions on
fuse line providers or alternate BBSHD Controller sellers you recommend?
Thank you again for your help and guidance.
 
There’s a long history of failures with those Hailong case connectors. Unfortunately sellers do not warn or make owners aware they should inspect the case to base connectors.

Hi, Tomjazz

Thanks for the “ heads-up” regarding the battery cradle connector issues.
This DIY is my first effort in the ebike world and much to learn for
a “Newbie”. I appreciate your input and suggestions.
 
@tomjasz will check me on this for a second opinion. Something like this can go between the battery and the controller on the RED, +,
1639945651665.png
Positive side. For your setup, I would use a 40 Amps fuse. It would only blow when needed and not when just riding the bike. A spare fuse could be kept taped under your saddle. Automotive shrink, crimp, butt connectors would do the trick for the splice. In addition I would use black adhesive heat shrink tubbing over the connections for added protection and improved looks.
1639946270501.png
 
I use car stereo fuses as well as the blade type you posted. Sadly sellers don’t offer any advice regarding those blade connectors. If the battery is removed from the base regularly you’ll spread the base inserts eventually. I saw more failures where the user never, or seldom separated the two, and moisture was the culprit. I’ve been suggesting the use of Boeshield or ACF50 on the connection. That will solve the moisture issue.
 
May I ask who the battery and kit came from?
Got the Battery and cradle, along with 3amp charger from Kyle at Bolton Ebikes, Grass Valley, California. It is the same battery and cradle they use on the Bolton Blackbird Fat Tire Ebike. Got the BBSHD from them also.
 
This time of year people experience problems due to temperature swings as bikes go indoors and then back out into the cold. Bike parts are not built like dive watches. Condensation is the problem. Condensation can happen inside motors.
 
Thanks to all for input. Just wanted to make sure that the battery cradle I have ( with the electrical voltage arcing related damaged connector pin case shown in prior pics), is the same style or type as those prone to the issues of condensation, moisture leakage, and a history of failures. I have attached several pics here.
 

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Looks to be. Think of the big aluminum plate as a glass of iced tea. I would use dielectric grease. I repels water. In and of itself it does not conduct. There will only be the transmission of electricity where there is direct contact.
Side note: I rode an HD today. It was lurchy before. Now it has a new controller from LUNA. It is so much better. The photo is of the bike I did a 30-mile ride on today. Its connector is recessed up into and under the battery. Gravity protects it from water.
 

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Looks to be. Think of the big aluminum plate as a glass of iced tea. I would use dielectric grease. I repels water. In and of itself it does not conduct. There will only be the transmission of electricity where there is direct contact.
Side note: I rode an HD today. It was lurchy before. Now it has a new controller from LUNA. It is so much better. The photo is of the bike I did a 30-mile ride on today. Its connector is recessed up into and under the battery. Gravity protects it from water.
Hi PedalUma,
Glass of Iced Tea on the Veranda in midsummer in the South. I get it,
a continual source of gravity fed moisture. Now, I understand about coating connector pins and adjacent with dielectric grease, or other moisture barrier that doesn’t interfere with proper connectivity and electrical flow. (Am I getting this correctly?). Really nice ride in the pic, very clean look to your bike build 👍. Must be a blast and very fast. Noticed your tall seat post, I’m nearly 6’5” and finding a good bike that fits to convert is how I chose my existing Specialized Stumpjumper MTB (size XL) for first ebike effort.
 
You have the idea. Dielectric should solve the problem. It would be nice if it had a little weather stripping on the bottom of the battery in a chevron pattern. Stripes could be made from gasket maker. This Specialized is my bike for longer rides, the green Public drop bar is one a made a couple of weeks ago. This cargo is an HD.
Edit: The chevron pattern could be made with an old hacksaw blade, used to spread the silicone gasket maker.
 

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Long Delayed Update to BBSHD issues.
Thanks again to all for helpful education and
insights for troubleshooting and recovery. Sought out LUNA BIKES and Purchased BBSHD Controller (Hot Rod Edition) B style ( flat blade connectors). That’s the Ticket! Put on about 200 miles last month or so
and Back To Full Power! Display reads up to 1500 watts when using
throttle when I want a serious kick or max power. Appreciate the sage
contributors sharing their vast knowledge and experience. Kudos!
 
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