Good morning all. So happy this forum is here. I just bought a used Virtue Gondoliere and the previous owner said they had taken the front wheel off to change the tube at one point and the power assist stopped working afterwards. The batter works as do the controls including the kmh reading so I am assuming it’s getting power all the way to the front tire. Looked for info on troubleshooting the Dapu M123 motor but found nothing. Any ideas for where I should start?
New Virtue Gondoliere owner with power assist problem.
- Thread starter joamariel
- Start date
Got it. Power is definitely getting to the motor. Just looking for some advice from someone who has some experience with this particular bike or motor or just some general direction. I am new to tinkering with something like this but I’m I can follow directions. If you have any pointers I would appreciate it.
I don't own a Virtue Gondoliere but let me chime in. OK so assuming that you have a good battery. The display shows that you have a good amount of charge and after repairs to the front tire which involved removing the front wheel, can I assume that this has a front HUB motor then?
So first and foremost recharge your battery. Find out what connectors had to be removed to accomplish this repair. Unplug the connectors and check their condition.
1) Any bent pins in the connector
2) Check the general condition of the cable...any fraying of the outside or breaks
3) Check the cable coming out of your PAS or Torque sensor...again the cabling and connections
4) Check the cable coming out of the motor especially the if it's route is through the axle rather than the side ... maybe there is a break in the connection here.
Get yourself a simple multi meter and you may have to check for "continuity" of the power cable. Easy to do.
Thats a start OK.
BTW I just google this model and it has a front drum break. So this is a converted bike to EV mode ...right?? So the motor replaced the drum break.
So first and foremost recharge your battery. Find out what connectors had to be removed to accomplish this repair. Unplug the connectors and check their condition.
1) Any bent pins in the connector
2) Check the general condition of the cable...any fraying of the outside or breaks
3) Check the cable coming out of your PAS or Torque sensor...again the cabling and connections
4) Check the cable coming out of the motor especially the if it's route is through the axle rather than the side ... maybe there is a break in the connection here.
Get yourself a simple multi meter and you may have to check for "continuity" of the power cable. Easy to do.
Thats a start OK.
BTW I just google this model and it has a front drum break. So this is a converted bike to EV mode ...right?? So the motor replaced the drum break.
indianajo
Well-Known Member
You should have low ohms between each of the 3 motor wires to the others, blue, yellow, green. Do this with battery disconnected. 200 ohms scale of the meter. Don't buy the Harbor freight one, they lie a lot. I suggest tenma from newark.
With an amp clamp meter, you can prove AC is getting to the motor, one wire at a time. Can be done with the wheel up off the ground. Run the motor to take the measurement. https://www.newark.com/tenma/72-7224/multimeter-digital-clamp-3-3-4/dp/45M5525
Cheaper analog meter https://www.newark.com/tenma/72-7222/multimeter-digital-clamp-3-1-2/dp/01N4891
I prefer analog, when the measurement changes rapidly one sees nothing but 8's on a digital display.
With an amp clamp meter, you can prove AC is getting to the motor, one wire at a time. Can be done with the wheel up off the ground. Run the motor to take the measurement. https://www.newark.com/tenma/72-7224/multimeter-digital-clamp-3-3-4/dp/45M5525
Cheaper analog meter https://www.newark.com/tenma/72-7222/multimeter-digital-clamp-3-1-2/dp/01N4891
I prefer analog, when the measurement changes rapidly one sees nothing but 8's on a digital display.
