New Schwalbe Tires

bigb

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USA
I haven't been around for awhile-still riding regularly though. My Como hit 2,000 miles yesterday and I was thinking about the new Schwalbe Marathon Plus MTB tires that I've had hanging in the garage since early Spring waiting for a flat to swap them. About 30 min later, on my way home, the rear tire gave out!
So today I installed the Schwalbes with new Air Plus tubes. They were extremely difficult to mount and I was forced to use zip ties and levers at the end. The rear gave me fits as it would not center on the rim, I tried deflating and massaging, over inflating, riding it while low, finally what worked was deflating and lubing it all the way around with Windex then inflating quickly.

I inflated to 45 PSI and I like the way they ride. They are a bit more square on the edges than the OEM Nimbus Sport 2.3s and I can feel that when cornering but it feels very grippy. That surprised me because they are knobby and the OEM are pretty smooth, I always thought a smooth tire was more grippy on dry pavement. I may try 40 tomorrow but I do weigh 215 and the tires are 2.25" (57mm) so I do think 45 PSI is appropriate.

Now to decide if I should add any goop. The main reason for these was the thorn protection they offer and the ride is better not having to use thorn resistant tubes. I am thinking the goop will only prolong the inevitable and you never know exactly where you will be when that happens. Fortunately for me my last 3 flats have been right near the end of my ride within a short walking distance of home.


Also took the opportunity to clean and lube the chain and cassette etc. and straighten a very slightly bent rotor that was starting to scrape.

The last picture explains why I haven't been around much, brought home a new toy in January that has been keeping me very busy although I have not let it get in the way of my riding. I'm pretty much finished with it now and it can haul bikes around just fine with a heavy duty thick steel receiver hitch rack that I've had for over 20 years (not the cargo carrier in the picture, that's for camping gear).

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I've heard good things about Flat Out.
I recently put it in my commuter and mountain ebikes.
I can't comment on how effective it is because I haven't put many miles on my bikes since the install.
 
I tried the Marathon E Plus some time ago and like you found them extremely challenging to mount on the rims. I have no doubt that they offer excellent flat protection…..possibly the best there is but I had a nagging concern that if one did flat away from home roadside repair would be a challenge to say the least and would risk pinching the tube necessitating starting again when my thumbs were already ready for a rest. Eventually I decided that I’d prefer less protection but easier tube replacement. Was my choice correct? I’ve no idea, time will tell. I have found Marathon Almotion and Marathon Efficiency to be extremely good (so far) and have good protection with far fewer watts used than the Plus. (See Rolling Resistance Review).
 
^ this is strange, I bought Marathon E Plus tyres last year for my previous e-bike conversion... and then read all the horror stories 🤦‍♂️ and saw the how-to videos on YouTube about got quite concerned about fitting them and repairing a tube if I ever got a flat. But I needn't have worried at all because they were only marginally more difficult to fit by hand than my previous tyres (which just about fell onto the rims!) I didn't even need to lubricate the bead with soapy water. They do give a really comfy ride.

I don't know if it was the size of my tyres/rims (28 x 2.0 & 622 x 19 respectively) that helped or if Schwalbe changed their manufacturing process (or maybe even changed the tyre size slightly) but I agree it does seem to have been a real b*ll-ache for some.

The Marathon Plus MTB tyres @bigb has just fitted are a completely different design of tyre though!
 
I tried the Marathon E Plus some time ago and like you found them extremely challenging to mount on the rims. I have no doubt that they offer excellent flat protection…..possibly the best there is but I had a nagging concern that if one did flat away from home roadside repair would be a challenge to say the least and would risk pinching the tube necessitating starting again when my thumbs were already ready for a rest. Eventually I decided that I’d prefer less protection but easier tube replacement. Was my choice correct? I’ve no idea, time will tell. I have found Marathon Almotion and Marathon Efficiency to be extremely good (so far) and have good protection with far fewer watts used than the Plus. (See Rolling Resistance Review).

I thought the same about changing one on the road, right now my plan for a flat far from home is a phone call to my wife to bring the car!

As far as rolling resistance, it is at the bottom of my list as my main purpose is exercise. My number one top priority is no flats and the protective layer in the MTB plus the knobby tread should really help with the goat heads. That being said I noticed right away the bike feels lighter and yesterday I beat my usual time on my 10 mile ride, today I beat it by quite a bit and my average speed was higher than it's ever been on that ride. I only use the motor for one hill and I switch it on and switch it off at the same place every time. My time went from 46 min down to 43:30 today and my avg speed has never been over 13.6 and usually lower and today it was 13.9 and touched 14 briefly.

I am not sure yet why. The knobs on the tires certainly mean less surface contact, and the width is narrower but only by 0.05" or 1.27mm. It is possible I was getting lax with the air pressure on my old Nimbus Sports and maybe they were down to 40 PSI vs the 45 I put in the Schwalbes. I will have to drop the Schwalbes down to 40 and do more testing.
 
I thought the same about changing one on the road, right now my plan for a flat far from home is a phone call to my wife to bring the car!

As far as rolling resistance, it is at the bottom of my list as my main purpose is exercise. My number one top priority is no flats and the protective layer in the MTB plus the knobby tread should really help with the goat heads. That being said I noticed right away the bike feels lighter and yesterday I beat my usual time on my 10 mile ride, today I beat it by quite a bit and my average speed was higher than it's ever been on that ride. I only use the motor for one hill and I switch it on and switch it off at the same place every time. My time went from 46 min down to 43:30 today and my avg speed has never been over 13.6 and usually lower and today it was 13.9 and touched 14 briefly.

I am not sure yet why. The knobs on the tires certainly mean less surface contact, and the width is narrower but only by 0.05" or 1.27mm. It is possible I was getting lax with the air pressure on my old Nimbus Sports and maybe they were down to 40 PSI vs the 45 I put in the Schwalbes. I will have to drop the Schwalbes down to 40 and do more testing.
rolling resistance can make the bike feel snappier and accelerate better. when I went from the stock tires on my trek to fast light tires I went 3mph faster wit the same amount of effort and the bike would accelerate much better. same on our tandem. though in winter the tries are harder so it's not as noticeable. usually I get faster and a smoother ride.
 
I thought the same about changing one on the road, right now my plan for a flat far from home is a phone call to my wife to bring the car!

As far as rolling resistance, it is at the bottom of my list as my main purpose is exercise.
👍
 
As far as rolling resistance, it is at the bottom of my list as my main purpose is exercise.
The exercise is my main goal, and that's precisely the reason I love the low rolling resistance tyres. There is no point to puff & huff at a very low speed :)
My Vado SL gives me more than enough of workout I and can still remember how frustrated I was to lose my precious Watts into the inefficient tyres. Changed for the low RR ones and it makes me able to ride faster at the same effort!
 
I’m a bit like Stefan on this (except that his English is better than mine….and I’m British!!). I have a Creo 1, soon to be joined by a Creo 2. I almost always ride the bike with the power off except on the steepest hills when the aging legs complain, and certainly get exercise, particularly when riding in a group as my bike is considerably heavier. The difference between the most and least efficient tyres can be 25 watts or more…..per tyre.
I’d guess that tyre efficiency is most important when road riding with the power off or when wanting to maximise the battery range.
 
@Stefan Mikes & @Twowheelxtc .. I think I/we may be looking for quite different things ... you guys are operating at much more of sportier end of the spectrum, speed isn't terribly important for my recreational/exercise/grocery shopping sort of use case as all my cycling is still far quicker than walking but if I were using my bike as you chaps do I think I'd be much more interested in RR too!
 
I guess one day (in my ideal future) I'd love to feel confident enough in my own strength/fitness/suppleness where I could enjoy and benefit from a lovely bike like the Creo in addition to my happy shopper routine! but it's one (small) step at at time for the moment!

More power to those of you guys that can though 👍
 
@Stefan Mikes & @Twowheelxtc .. I think I/we may be looking for quite different things ... you guys are operating at much more of sportier end of the spectrum, speed isn't terribly important for my recreational/exercise/grocery shopping sort of use case as all my cycling is still far quicker than walking but if I were using my bike as you chaps do I think I'd be much more interested in RR too!
Bavi, I'm not a fast rider either (except special occasions such as being invited to friendly road cycling workouts; or gravel group rides). My country has surprisingly clean roads and we are not plagued with goat-heads or thorns either. I choose puncture resistant tyres but also pay attention to the rolling resistance. It is very much depressing to ride at, say, 19 km/h when better tyres let you be at 22 just because of a different tyre tread and rubber used.

The three tyres that best met my expectations have been:
  • Specialized Electrak 2.0 Armadillo with Gripton compound (51-622)
  • Specialized Pathfinder Pro 2Bliss (with Gripton, of course) (38-622)
  • Specialized Rhombus Pro (42-622 or 47-622).
The Gripton compound has some magic: puncture resistant, fast rolling, grippy even with the slicks, and supple.

I still use Schwalbe tyres, of which Smart Sam or Johnny Watts 365 are pretty good (all depending on the wheel size and tyre width). Two types of Schwalbe winter tyres (Ice Spiker Pro or Winter Plus) are the only studded tyres I would use and are widely available.

For some reason, Marathon E-Plus did not win my heart. Hard to believe that but one of very rare punctures I ever got happened to Marathon E-Plus (and I could not locate the reason of the puncture but the sealant in the inner tube saved the day). I didn't like how the Marathons handled surfaces made of small paving blocks either.
 
So a dozen rides and tested at 45PSI and 40PSI, these tires definitely roll easier. I've beat my regular time and my average speed on every ride by quite a noticeable amount. Going from 45 to 40 didn't change anything except soften the bumps on the front. Here are my thoughts, 45 PSI is in the recommended ball park for my weight but I am thinking why not go with 45PSI in the rear and 40 in front? I could go 45 in both but it does make the front harsh enough to rattle the fender. The majority of my weight is on the back.
 
why not go with 45PSI in the rear and 40 in front?
I also like a firmer tire in the back. No suspension.
I have Schwalbe Marathon (NOT plus) front and back, both 40 psi, but larger size in the rear.
26x1.75 front, 26x2.0 rear.
When I had 26x1.75 on both I ran 40 front, 45 rear.
Here's two calculators I like:


 
I also like a firmer tire in the back. No suspension.
I have Schwalbe Marathon (NOT plus) front and back, both 40 psi, but larger size in the rear.
26x1.75 front, 26x2.0 rear.
When I had 26x1.75 on both I ran 40 front, 45 rear.
Here's two calculators I like:


With my experience, the Rene Herse calculator produces more realistic inflation pressure values.
 
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