New Mid-Drive Install - Motor not working

[Clarkey20]

Many thanks for adding me on to the forum.



I've just bought a Bafang BBS01B 250w mid drive kit with a DCP18 controller. I’ve fitted the kit without any problems. But the motor won’t run, either on throttle or Pedal Assist.

• The battery is charged and shows good power levels when using the button on the battery itself.
• The LCD display lights up. I have set the battery setting to 36v. I attach photos of the readouts.
• The LCD does not give any battery information, but looking at forums, this might be normal.
• Once the LCD has started up, neither the throttle or pedals get the motor going.
• HOWEVER – if I press the throttle during the yellow ‘Hello’ screen, the motor kicks in briefly. Therefore the motor does work, and receives power.
• I have tried with speed sensor connected and disconnected.
• I have not fitted the hydraulic brake sensors, nor the gear sensor.

Any suggestions would be welcome, as I don't want to pack it all up and send back if it's an easy fix.

Robert

 

[Gionnirocket]

The red battery in the first photo indicates it's not reading the battery correctly.
Check all connections
Try doing a factory reset of the display from its menu.
Any markings on the motor indicating voltage?
Do you know if your set up is UART? Do you have a programming cable?
Possible the controller settings are incorrect and the Low Voltage cutoff is set too low.
Try to eliminate the above... Possible bad display or controller

ps... The display looks like the 850c

 

[Clarkey20]

Hi Thanks for the suggestions.
All connections have been checked, and checked again
Factory reset doesn't help
Motor is 36v
Not sure what UART is I'm afraid. No, I don't have a programming cable.
Will try to get hold of another display and see if I can swap.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Hi Thanks for the suggestions.
All connections have been checked, and checked again
Factory reset doesn't help
Motor is 36v
Not sure what UART is I'm afraid. No, I don't have a programming cable.
Will try to get hold of another display and see if I can swap.

Very well...and thought there may be a chance they sent you a 48v motor by accident.
UART is the communication protocol of the system. UART is user programmable while the other, CANBUS is not.
Check the display connection.
UART - Round



CANBUS - Pentagon


If you do have UART I recommend that you get a programming cable as the custom user preferences are invaluable.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BAFANG-USB...4-2788-4c3f-b20c-ecd56481ba5b&redirect=mobile

Have you tried to contact the seller for assistance?

 

[smorgasbord]

Is the battery a Bafang brand battery or some other brand?

If not a Bafang, and the connections are not made to the battery other than the large + / - cables, it's normal to not have information on the battery. And your display is showing 41.2 volts, so that's a fully charged 36V battery. Which makes it weird that the battery indicator is red.

I second that notion to reset the display via the "Factory setting option" and then reset the Imperial/Metric, Wheel Size, and Battery Voltage settings.
I agree that does not look like a DPC-18 display, but it should be compatible.

 

[vikino1]

I have the same display on the Bafang BBS02B, only the background is gray and not blue and it works OK. I think the error will be that the battery indicator is red. I think it would be necessary to find out from the manufacturer or the seller what it signals.

 

[vikino1]

It should look like this, the field should be filled in according to the battery charge percentage. I don't know and could it be caused by the BMS of the battery?

 

[Gionnirocket]

I have the same display on the Bafang BBS02B, only the background is gray and not blue and it works OK. I think the error will be that the battery indicator is red. I think it would be necessary to find out from the manufacturer or the seller what it signals.

The red battery icon is a warning and indicates that the battery is almost drained... obviously in error here.
Probably a bad display...but possibly the controller.

For some reason I keep thinking they sent him a motor with a 48v controller by accident

 

[kb_79]

Hello Your screen is well set to 36V and not 48V ?

 

[m@Robertson]

For some reason I keep thinking they sent him a motor with a 48v controller by accident

Whatever it is, it looks to be something not user-modifiable (without a programming cable at least).

If you can get into the advanced settings (google for the usual PIN codes if you don't know them), you can see any error codes. I would think there has to be one there because of the red battery icon on a system that clearly knows a battery is connected but is still throwing that red icon.

If your motor has an internal setting that sets the low voltage cutoff to something like 42v, 43v or even 41v, which would be normal for a higher battery voltage (see what @Gionnirocket said above) then there's your problem.

Perhaps an LVC condition would not throw a code?

 

[Gionnirocket]

Whatever it is, it looks to be something not user-modifiable (without a programming cable at least).

If you can get into the advanced settings (google for the usual PIN codes if you don't know them), you can see any error codes. I would think there has to be one there because of the red battery icon on a system that clearly knows a battery is connected but is still throwing that red icon.

If your motor has an internal setting that sets the low voltage cutoff to something like 42v, 43v or even 41v, which would be normal for a higher battery voltage (see what @Gionnirocket said above) then there's your problem.

Perhaps an LVC condition would not throw a code?

Something is funky here.
For what it's worth... I've sag'd my battery on the way home on the last big hill during the winter down to 40v on a 48v system and have seen the battery indicator turn red. On the controller my LV cutoff is set to 39v and the system continued to work and without an error code.

 

[m@Robertson]

Something is funky here.
For what it's worth... I've sag'd my battery on the way home on the last big hill during the winter down to 40v on a 48v system and have seen the battery indicator turn red. On the controller my LV cutoff is set to 39v and the system continued to work and without an error code.

Agreed. My money is on a bad controller, even if 'bad' is just because of a voltage mismatch. Without a programming cable there's no way to tell or to fix it.

I have sagged mine to LVC too but I was close enough to the cutoff to shut off the display, power it up again and continue at PAS1 without sagging to LVC again. My cutoff on a 52v system is 43v which puts both of us right on a 6% charge at cutoff.