New Bike and a question

what part is not true?
Your idea that the charger doesn't turn off and stay off. Look into LiPo charging technology. The chargers, ALL of them, are designed to SHUT OFF when a set voltage is released. If your charger doesn't do that, it's not a LiPo charger, it's that simple. If it were not for that, you would destroy the batteries in short order....
 
I say unplug it. Power company flicker etc.. can cause it to start again. Though it shouldn't be a problem, I say follow the instructions.
There's a multitude of home automation smart plugs that you can set to turn it off automatically by timer and/or via smart phone app.
If you are worried about remembering how you left it then plug in a LED nightlight with it as well and you'll have a running light to know if it's on or off that you can possibly setup to be visible from the house.
 
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The original question is about a throttle. Class 2 is throttle. Bob's bike has a throttle or is throttle ready.
  • 500W (800W+ peak) brushless geared rear hub
  • 5 Pedal-Assist levels
  • Class 2 and 3 Capabilities
 
My white Lectric XP arrived today in good shape. After unboxing it I put it on the charger to top off the bike. I would like to know if I can ride the XP without the need for pedaling? Is so how? I have diabetic ulcers on the bottom of both feet and don't want to aggravate them.


From the Owners Manual

IMG_20210221_171724_670.JPG
 
Does anyone know if on this model the battery charges when you are pedaling? Thank you!
I get asked this every day! This is the best question.
I suspect it is an artifact from the first Prius that logged. Those cars could charge when you drove them.
 
Your idea that the charger doesn't turn off and stay off. Look into LiPo charging technology. The chargers, ALL of them, are designed to SHUT OFF when a set voltage is released. If your charger doesn't do that, it's not a LiPo charger, it's that simple. If it were not for that, you would destroy the batteries in short order....
actually the batteries electronics cuts off the power not the charger. thats why you can charge something with a usb cable only. if you stick a voltage meter into the chargers ports there is power there.
 
actually the batteries electronics cuts off the power not the charger. thats why you can charge something with a usb cable only. if you stick a voltage meter into the chargers ports there is power there.
That in mind, you're saying I could use a 48v charger on a 36v battery, because the battery would turn the charger off when it's fully charged?

Um, sorry. Not buying into that plan....

Nor am I buying into the plan that would require that I get up in the middle of the night to "unplug" my charger at the end of it's charge cycle. You do as YOU like, I'm just not that paranoid.....
 
That in mind, you're saying I could use a 48v charger on a 36v battery, because the battery would turn the charger off when it's fully charged?

Um, sorry. Not buying into that plan....

Nor am I buying into the plan that would require that I get up in the middle of the night to "unplug" my charger at the end of it's charge cycle. You do as YOU like, I'm just not that paranoid.....
you're going off on tangents. the cheaper batteries and chargers I would not leave plugged in. My bosch no problem at all. cheap electronics may not be reliable.
 
So maybe next time, you could qualify your message by sharing that your comments are regarding a Bosch charger, and maybe expand on that idea when the OP is CLEARLY not talking about a Bosch powered bike or battery?

Further, you have no idea of what you are talking about by referring to the OP's charger as "cheap". Is this because anything not bearing the brand name Bosch is cheap? What other evidence would you like to share that might justify your opinion? Or are you just anothe Bosch fan boy spouting off with useless info?
 
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So maybe next time, you could qualify your message by sharing that your comments are regarding a Bosch charger, and maybe expand on that idea when the OP is CLEARLY not talking about a Bosch powered bike or battery?
I was commenting on his charger its a low. end charger and battery its best not to leave it plugged in. you have been going on about wrong voltage chargers and such.
 
Hicks. I declare you the winner. Gloat in victory and please stop wanting to fight, fight, fight or people will not want to play with you in the sandbox.
 
Hicks. I declare you the winner. Gloat in victory and please stop wanting to fight, fight, fight or people will not want to play with you in the sandbox.
That's really not my plan, but you're welcome to an opinion.

For me, it's WAY more about supplying rookies with clear no B.S. answers. I really don't like the idea of supplying folks that are absolutely new to the hobby/sport with questionable information where that info turns into info where they waste their time and money finding the truth the hard way. That's NOT what places like this are supposed to be like!

Not into us vs. them, or finger pointing. -Al
 
One way that LiIon cells fail is low voltage. My charger that I paid $27 for, does not remember that it just finished charging a battery. If I unplug it & replug it from battery while AC is left plugged in, it starts charging again. Even if fully charged the battery sags a volt or two right after charging.
So if a charger is left plugged in AC, and a cell sags more than normal in voltage, the BMS will show low voltage, because it doesn't remember that battery was just charged either (unless a $30000 car or $3000000 airplane). So the charger current gets directed to the stack of the cell that is failing. Probably only to that stack of cells. So the charger will tend to overheat and dry out that cell. That is a dangerous situation, IMHO. Maybe the BMS of the battery I took apart was cheaper than most, but it appeared to be a multi input comparator chip (analog) followed by 14 transistors (same number as stacks), with no sign of a microprocessor or latch to remember history.
As I very rarely charge my battery to 100%, I check voltage hourly (usually) on the throttle display, or put it on an appliance timer to shut off after certain time if I've left it overnight in my garage. Which achieves goal this manufacturer set for unplugging their charger when charging is finished. I'm in accordance with the instructions of this manufacturer.
 
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One way that LiIon cells fail is low voltage. My charger that I paid $27 for, does not remember that it just finished charging a battery. If I unplug it & replug it from battery while AC is left plugged in, it starts charging again. Even if fully charged the battery sags a volt or two right after charging.
So if a charger is left plugged in AC, and a cell sags more than normal in voltage, the BMS will show low voltage, because it doesn't remember that battery was just charged either (unless a $30000 car or $3000000 airplane). So the charger current gets directed to the stack of the cell that is failing. Probably only to that stack of cells. So the charger will tend to overheat and dry out that cell. That is a dangerous situation, IMHO. Maybe the BMS of the battery I took apart was cheaper than most, but it appeared to be a multi input comparator chip (analog) followed by 14 transistors (same number as stacks), with no sign of a microprocessor or latch to remember history.
As I very rarely charge my battery to 100%, I check voltage hourly (usually) on the throttle display, or put it on an appliance timer to shut off after certain time if I've left it overnight in my garage. Which achieves goal this manufacturer set for unplugging their charger when charging is finished. I'm in accordance with the instructions of this manufacturer.
far better explanation then I was capable of.
 
One way that LiIon cells fail is low voltage. My charger that I paid $27 for, does not remember that it just finished charging a battery. If I unplug it & replug it from battery while AC is left plugged in, it starts charging again. Even if fully charged the battery sags a volt or two right after charging.
So if a charger is left plugged in AC, and a cell sags more than normal in voltage, the BMS will show low voltage, because it doesn't remember that battery was just charged either (unless a $30000 car or $3000000 airplane). So the charger current gets directed to the stack of the cell that is failing. Probably only to that stack of cells. So the charger will tend to overheat and dry out that cell. That is a dangerous situation, IMHO. Maybe the BMS of the battery I took apart was cheaper than most, but it appeared to be a multi input comparator chip (analog) followed by 14 transistors (same number as stacks), with no sign of a microprocessor or latch to remember history.
As I very rarely charge my battery to 100%, I check voltage hourly (usually) on the throttle display, or put it on an appliance timer to shut off after certain time if I've left it overnight in my garage. Which achieves goal this manufacturer set for unplugging their charger when charging is finished. I'm in accordance with the instructions of this manufacturer.
The process you detail is there, but it's happening late in the charge cycle - before the charger shuts off. You would see this if you were to charge to 100% more frequently. Once the charger shuts off, it's off until the power is cycled. IF that power were cycled due to a local power outage, the charger would read the battery voltage and very likely turn BACK off after a very short cycle. There is NO CHANCE of damaging the battery if this were to happen no more often than most homes loose electricity.

Geez, for those concerned, take the worst case scenario and do some research on the number of fires caused by the process we are talking about. The ones you do find are going to be related to home built packs or abuse of some kind - and they are incredibly few even at that!

Let your level of paranoia be your guide. I'm done here. -Al
 
The process you detail is there, but it's happening late in the charge cycle - before the charger shuts off. You would see this if you were to charge to 100% more frequently. Once the charger shuts off, it's off until the power is cycled. IF that power were cycled due to a local power outage, the charger would read the battery voltage and very likely turn BACK off after a very short cycle. There is NO CHANCE of damaging the battery if this were to happen no more often than most homes loose electricity.

Geez, for those concerned, take the worst case scenario and do some research on the number of fires caused by the process we are talking about. The ones you do find are going to be related to home built packs or abuse of some kind - and they are incredibly few even at that!

Let your level of paranoia be your guide. I'm done here. -Al
Maybe there's not a lot of fires because most people follow instructions and don't leave the charger plugged in... 🙃
And advising beginners to disregard the Owners Manual is a bit arrogant, potentially dangerous and mostly stupid.
 
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