This is better suited to endless_sphere.com
The controller and motor may not be compatible.
The motor is 4-6N/m. Not a good choice.
The battery is LiPo and can be very volatile. Overcharging and undercharging can both be disastrous.
You're trying to reinvent the wheel...
From endless sphere neptronics
Before you start...
First, a note of caution about RC lipos.
RC lipo can be very hit or miss, quality wise. There is a good chance that out of many packs, you will eventually get a dud. So before putting your battery packs on eBike duty, it is best to test them out first to make sure you have good packs, to prevent major problems from occurring down the line.
Many balancing chargers have discharge functions that are useful here.
You can also use the bike to discharge obviously
, halogen lights, fans, or anything that will produce a significant load on the batteries will work too.
( we will cover a few ways to discharge in detail at the end of this tutorial. )
But what's good and what isn't?...
First, let me tell you what a GOOD pack looks like:
1. When the pack is recieved, cell voltages do not differ between cells more than 0.1v. No cells are puffy; the pack is generally flat and straight. The stored voltage should be around 3.8-3.85v.
2. After a few balance charges, when the pack is fully discharged to 3.5v per cell average, there are no cells that are at 3.0v or below.
A graph of a good 10S pack looks like this on a balancing charger:
See how none of the cells are get close to 3.0v until about 3.3v average?
This is a reasonably good set of cells, and all the cells will spring back to 3.6v after a short amount of time on the charger.
A little variance at the end of the charge ( below 3.6v/cell ) is normal.
This is what the pack looks like while charging:
Now, let me tell you what a BAD pack looks like:
1. When you recieve the pack, there is more than a 0.1v difference between all the cells ... such as 4 cells at 3.85v and one cell at 3.75. This is a bad sign.
( this may be salvageable, give it a balanced charge and discharge first. )
2. The pack is visibly puffy on the outside.
( in this instance, do NOT use that pack, one of the cells either has reduced capacity, higher internal resistance, is a potential fireball, or all of the above! )
3. After pack has had a few balance charges, and one cell repeatedly go low far before the others; you've got a bad cell in there that will only get worse with time.
( if this cell repeatedly goes below 3.0v/cell, before the others hit 3.5v, this pack will be damaged eventually. Repeatedly discharging a RC Lipo cell to under it's minimum voltage could cause a fire ).
Here is what a 9 cell pack with 2 weak cells looks like while discharging and being monitored on a balancing charger:
Two issues with this pack:
+ the blue cell has a good internal resistance, so it doesn't have voltage drop like the light blue and purple cells, but ultimately it is short on mAH, so it dive bombs for 0v as we near the end of the discharge for this pack.
+ The purple cell has less internal resistance than the others, AND is short on capacity(mAH), thus it will sag, and dive bomb for 3.0v when all the other cells are at 3.3-3.6v.
A pack like this will be eternally disbalanced and/or provide lower AH than rated. If the pack is acting this way after a few balance charges, it will only be trouble for you in the future..
Not all bad packs are useless. Keep one or two around just in case one of your packs experiences a cell death. If you have only puffing cell, remove it from the pack, discharge it, and send that cell to recyling.
( you can also use the packs with a bad cell or two for other purposes. Please see the end of this tutorial for more information. )
Please refer to your charger's manual on how to do use it's charge / discharge modes.
