john peck
Well-Known Member
L have come to believe the numbers kph become the same for mph when set to
mph. At least that seems to be the way the modes are working for me.
NCM Moscow Das Kit L7 code to modify setting
- Thread starter Sambiker
- Start date
mph. At least that seems to be the way the modes are working for me.
stealth womble
New Member
A cautionary word of warning. re Moscows and rain { heavy soak you to death rain } from work to home it takes around 9 minutes at around 20mph. a few weeks back it was torrential rain . it took 1 minute to totally knock out the battery LED power indicator, { has not recovered, but battery still charges, but would not turn off for several days } controller was covered with a small plastic money bag secured with a hair bobble lol. which i guess saved it. { highly recommend covering that sucker at all times } Display appears to be severely weather proofed.
Now heres the thing, i expected the power to cut out in excessive rainfall, this did not happen. what did happen was the bike took off at 20MPH and topped out at 58MPH { according to my iphone gps } in dry conditions that might have been fun, in torrential rain, it was terrifying, disc breaks are next to useless at this speed, and im just thankful that the roads were relatively clear of traffic, coz i wasnt stopping at no safe distances lol
Bike has since recovered and is back to running as it should. anyone else had this. ??
Now heres the thing, i expected the power to cut out in excessive rainfall, this did not happen. what did happen was the bike took off at 20MPH and topped out at 58MPH { according to my iphone gps } in dry conditions that might have been fun, in torrential rain, it was terrifying, disc breaks are next to useless at this speed, and im just thankful that the roads were relatively clear of traffic, coz i wasnt stopping at no safe distances lol
Bike has since recovered and is back to running as it should. anyone else had this. ??
john peck
Well-Known Member
58mph? that's scary alright. I live in the NW rain forest & ride in rain regularly. I've had no such issues thus far,
but I skipped yesterday to avoid an ongoing biblical deluge. I use a plastic baggie with a rubber band on the
display. Moisture addled the display on the CCS, so i hope to avoid it on the moscow. The CCS still has an
accurate charge reading,, but the rest kinda varies like a slot machine eating quarters. The moscow controller housing
gets wet & is presently caked with mud, but I've had no issues there. Then again, it's not been fully submerged yet.
but I skipped yesterday to avoid an ongoing biblical deluge. I use a plastic baggie with a rubber band on the
display. Moisture addled the display on the CCS, so i hope to avoid it on the moscow. The CCS still has an
accurate charge reading,, but the rest kinda varies like a slot machine eating quarters. The moscow controller housing
gets wet & is presently caked with mud, but I've had no issues there. Then again, it's not been fully submerged yet.
Milbs
New Member
Hi all. Newbie here. Got my Moscow Plus 29er last week (and am loving it!).
I wanted to check out what happened when I changed the wheel size - thanks for the posts with codes etc..
8018 works here (Australia) and I was able to change the power setting and wheel size.
There is a slight difference in power (and maybe top speed) but the reduction in battery charge didn’t make it worthwhile for me!
I’m spending time trying to figure out which gear/power settings work best for me - even in standard spec I’ve hit 45kmh without working too hard - which was plenty fast enough for me.
I’ve avoided bikes for years due to the severe inclines that are on every route around here - the ebike has changed all that!!
I wanted to check out what happened when I changed the wheel size - thanks for the posts with codes etc..
8018 works here (Australia) and I was able to change the power setting and wheel size.
There is a slight difference in power (and maybe top speed) but the reduction in battery charge didn’t make it worthwhile for me!
I’m spending time trying to figure out which gear/power settings work best for me - even in standard spec I’ve hit 45kmh without working too hard - which was plenty fast enough for me.
I’ve avoided bikes for years due to the severe inclines that are on every route around here - the ebike has changed all that!!
john peck
Well-Known Member
So far my charge gauge drops at the same mileage not matter what mode I use, I think it's programmed
that way, but I seem to be getting more range as the weather warms. You might want to pre-stretch &
adjust your brake cables at 1000 mi. or sooner. I love the way it climbs, so many long steep grades here.
I ride almost exclusively on the 38T which is fine for all but the very steepest hills. Egg & I Road would serve
well as a 90 meter ski jump. I don't think I could have found a bike to better suit me for twice the price.
They're now on sale in Seattle for $1059 US.
My CCS was faster but didn't climb nearly as well & was limited to black top surfaces. The NCM goes
anywhere, great on the beach.
THe modes more accurately reflect the speed range you want to use rather than power so much.
Shifting is very smooth if you just ease off the pedal for a blink when doing so. Mine came perfectly adjusted,
& still is at 1300 mi. with display preset to miles & 29". Be sure to read the manual carefully; the Germans
are kinda finicky about how you treat their toys.
that way, but I seem to be getting more range as the weather warms. You might want to pre-stretch &
adjust your brake cables at 1000 mi. or sooner. I love the way it climbs, so many long steep grades here.
I ride almost exclusively on the 38T which is fine for all but the very steepest hills. Egg & I Road would serve
well as a 90 meter ski jump. I don't think I could have found a bike to better suit me for twice the price.
They're now on sale in Seattle for $1059 US.
My CCS was faster but didn't climb nearly as well & was limited to black top surfaces. The NCM goes
anywhere, great on the beach.
THe modes more accurately reflect the speed range you want to use rather than power so much.
Shifting is very smooth if you just ease off the pedal for a blink when doing so. Mine came perfectly adjusted,
& still is at 1300 mi. with display preset to miles & 29". Be sure to read the manual carefully; the Germans
are kinda finicky about how you treat their toys.
ugman
New Member
Thanks for the comments, Milbs. I'm also in Sydney and bought a Moscow Plus a week ago as a commuter that I could take trail riding occasionally. So far so good. I'm curious about your experience changing the wheel size. Did it increase the speed on climbs? I'm enjoying the bike and get good speed on level ground, but only really achieve 16kph on hills. Any suggestions from your experience?
Mal
john peck
Well-Known Member
Brake cables will stretch in warmer weather. Tire pressure is also subject to temperature change.
It is not a bad idea to check frequently. I now check both before every ride. I popped a spoke on
a pothole, & wouldn't have noticed had I not checked . This was due primarily to inadequate
tire pressure. I a big guy which makes this issue more critical. I also had 25 pds of extra
gear on the bike. I've learned a way to replace a spoke without removing the rear wheel.
Deflate tire, use levers to pull the tire near the spoke to one side, same with the rim strip.
replace spoke being sure to do so from correct side. replace rim strip, tire, reinflate.
I was lucky to have spokes that work from another bike, Having spares is alway a good
Idea, especially if you ride 'outback'. Luckily, my wheel stayed true; it was just a matter of
matching spoke tension to the rest. This issue, (my fault), was the only one I've had in
1400 miles so far. I love this bike. it will climb most any grade on the middle chainring.
more so on the small which makes it reasonable to pedal without power. Sometimes I make
short trips without installing the battery.
It is not a bad idea to check frequently. I now check both before every ride. I popped a spoke on
a pothole, & wouldn't have noticed had I not checked . This was due primarily to inadequate
tire pressure. I a big guy which makes this issue more critical. I also had 25 pds of extra
gear on the bike. I've learned a way to replace a spoke without removing the rear wheel.
Deflate tire, use levers to pull the tire near the spoke to one side, same with the rim strip.
replace spoke being sure to do so from correct side. replace rim strip, tire, reinflate.
I was lucky to have spokes that work from another bike, Having spares is alway a good
Idea, especially if you ride 'outback'. Luckily, my wheel stayed true; it was just a matter of
matching spoke tension to the rest. This issue, (my fault), was the only one I've had in
1400 miles so far. I love this bike. it will climb most any grade on the middle chainring.
more so on the small which makes it reasonable to pedal without power. Sometimes I make
short trips without installing the battery.
Milbs
New Member
Hi Mal,
I actually changed it back because I had also changed the power setting (to Power from Normal) and it seemed to drain the battery quicker - however when I realised how inaccurate the speed display was I changed it back.
The bike was 7/8kmh fast - so was cutting the power well before the 25kmh limit- by changing the wheel size to 20 the PAS is still helping up to and maybe a little bit past 25kmh (I just fitted a Quadlock yesterday and will have my phone on it today with a speedo app to confirm).
I did a ride yesterday with a 300m climb (total) and this included some serious inclines - with the power on normal and wheel size at 20 - the bike sailed up them though obviously this requires you to be in the correct gear or things get nasty!!
On that note I can’t decide whether it’s because the bike is so heavy or because it’s an e-bike but if you stop in the “wrong” gear it’s almost impossible to get moving on anything other than a flat surface - I’ve had to turn around and go downhill just to sort it out before having another go!!
I would also check that the grub screw in your side stand is in tight - mine slipped and the bike almost hit the deck- the plastic foot is probably a good 8cm from the end of the metal tube...
Overall I’m loving it - and the reaction of the MAMIL’s as I pass their $10K carbon fibre rides going up climbs....
Eric_2222
New Member
I have a Daskit C7.
Model Number: C600-1908-J361
Code is 8088
FYI: Online manual is here https://www.leoncycle.com.au/assets/brochures/3060000042.pdf
Model Number: C600-1908-J361
Code is 8088
FYI: Online manual is here https://www.leoncycle.com.au/assets/brochures/3060000042.pdf
john peck
Well-Known Member
This could be useful, I didn´t need the code to change from kph to mph which effectively removes EU limits.
NCMprague
New Member
Does the high power setting (#3) improve the Performance? Faster acceleration? Higher top speed? There has to be something in return of using more battery/power...
The power settings are normally about getting a faster acceleration up the top speed dependent on which PAS level you are on. If you are in Eco mode on PAS 6 you will still do the same top speed, it will just be slightly slower getting there.
Hello friends. Does anyone know the difference between Normal and Power mode? I have the Reention Dorado ID-Max inner tube 48V 21Ah 1008W battery and on Power mode I do around 100km range.Is it worth switching to Normal mode? Will there be a significant difference in range? And how will the effort feel compared to Power mode?Best regards!
There are 3 modes:
Eco, Normal, and Power
I experimented a bit and have chosen Eco Mode. My comments:
1. The mode setting seems to determine how quickly (how much current is provided) to get up to the designated speed for an individual PAS level... in other words, how quickly it accelerates to get there.
2. I found that Eco gives a SLIGHTLY more natural normal pedalling feel...but this is very subjective.
3. As for battery consumption, there may be a slight improvement in the Eco or Normal modes over Power, but my guess is it is not much. Think of the evil empire of cars. If you stomp the gas to get from 20mph to 40mph, you will likely burn a bit more gas than if you accelerate gradually and smoothly from 20 to 40. Once at 40, here is no difference to maintain that speed.
Someone else may have some more concrete data points.
100% agree. Your findings seem to mirror my own informal testing. ECO and Normal seem very similar and Power gives faster acceleration. I've been using Normal for ages now and just got used to it so never think of it any more.
Yeah, I started using eco a while back to try to get more range. Maybe if I lived in an area with more stop and go it would help, because, I too, only notice the different power levels on acceleration. I just put it back to normal because I like the responsiveness and there isn't much range penalty riding around here.
You need to get into the advanced functions. On my display the code is 8088.Hello friends. Is there any possibility to change the modes between eco and power like the Bosh display apart from entering the secret code to get into meny? I have an L6 Display. Sorry for this stupid question but i did not find any answer on the internet.
Thnx but i already know that and it's a little bit annoying, you're wasting some time to make the change. I wanted to know if there is a possibilty to have that option right in the main menu like the bosh computer.
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