My TSDZ2 casing broke. Are shell replacements worth it or should I consider other options?

[ultra_deluxe]

My TSDZ2 cracked down the center while climbing a steep hill. This caused the gears to separate enough that they could no longer grip each other.

If you're wondering how on earth this happened, I have some guesses but I'm no engineer. For one, I left it out the "fixing block" since it didn't fit my frame, but as a result there was nothing to keep the motor from rotating/vibrating other than some rubber padding and zipties. Also, I was probably on the wrong gear to be climbing a hill. I haven't seen anyone else with the same problem so it's probably not a design issue.

Anyway, there's a die-cast TSDZ motor casing on Aliexpress for $80-ish but I'm skeptical about it. If the stock casing is also made of solid metal and still cracked, what's to keep the replacement from suffering the same fate? And can I reduce the risk of it breaking again by getting longer screws or making some sort of custom fixing block?

 

[LimboJim]

You're not alone - the TSDZ2's fixing block didn't fit my bike either, and the motor's casing broke similarly to yours (pic below).
It was fine for several hundred miles with the stock 42T chainring, but I got speed-greedy and slapped a 52T badboy on it.
10 miles into my first ride with 52T and SNAP! I think there was just too much torque without the extra bracing provided by the fixing block.

I got my replacement case from Eco Cycles - their website shows the motor cover replacement but not the case, which appears to be what you need.
Email [email protected] and ask if they'll invoice you for the "TSDZ2 Motor Case Replacement." They're usually pretty fast at responding, shipping etc.
And be careful about the torque sensor ring and three sensor springs when you disassemble!
I broke the connecting wire (2nd pic below) and lost a spring - luckily it only cost me $25 more, but had to order them separately, adding several days to the process.

After bungling the motor disassembly, I found an electric motor repair guy about an hour away and had him put it all back together again.
I wanted to be sure it was done right, with the correct grease in the right places etc.
He had only repaired one ebike motor before - a hub motor from an Organic Transit Elf - so he was stoked to fix a mid-drive!

All that for a 5mph increase in speed -
I went back to the 42T and used a super-thick zip tie to strap the fixing block to the frame (3rd pic) - better than nothing...
Another few hundred miles since and it's all good (4th pic), knock wood!

Hopefully that's helpful to you - please share how your repair experience goes!

 

[EMGX]

Good info. Thanks for posting.
I have TSDZ2 currently on two bikes. One (48v 750w) I used the fixing block the other (36v 500w) I rotated forward pressing against the down tube with dense foam padding. I prefer having the motor rotate forward so it isn't protruding below the chainring. I'm hoping mine doesn't break but I've run this motor several hundred miles on a few bikes rotated forward like this without problems and I live on a mountain so it gets pretty heavy use.
By the way, it doesn't look like the zip tie on the down tube is doing anything since the motor wants to rotate forward anyway. Your zip tie would only prevent it from rotating backwards which it won't do. One bike I used two of those heavy 200-300 lb break strength zip ties to hold the motor back, I only got about 20 feet before the motor snapped both ties.

If mine ever breaks like this I will at least check with a local welder who does great work including on aluminum to see what he could do. Or I might try using some aluminum brazing rod, I've always wanted to give that a try on something.

 

[ultra_deluxe]

I got my replacement case from Eco Cycles - their website shows the motor cover replacement but not the case, which appears to be what you need.
Email [email protected] and ask if they'll invoice you for the "TSDZ2 Motor Case Replacement." They're usually pretty fast at responding, shipping etc.
And be careful about the torque sensor ring and three sensor springs when you disassemble!
I broke the connecting wire (2nd pic below) and lost a spring - luckily it only cost me $25 more, but had to order them separately, adding several days to the process.

Thanks a lot for the tip and the assembly gotchas! I thought my case fracture looked bad but yours is terrifying.

To be honest, I kinda wish I'd bought my TSDZ2 from Eco Cycles to begin with, since I followed some of their documentation back when I installed the motor. I'll reach out to them. Even if I don't end up buying my casing replacement from them, I might finally splurge on their minimalist display.

Good info. Thanks for posting.
I have TSDZ2 currently on two bikes. One (48v 750w) I used the fixing block the other (36v 500w) I rotated forward pressing against the down tube with dense foam padding. I prefer having the motor rotate forward so it isn't protruding below the chainring. I'm hoping mine doesn't break but I've run this motor several hundred miles on a few bikes rotated forward like this without problems and I live on a mountain so it gets pretty heavy use.
By the way, it doesn't look like the zip tie on the down tube is doing anything since the motor wants to rotate forward anyway. Your zip tie would only prevent it from rotating backwards which it won't do. One bike I used two of those heavy 200-300 lb break strength zip ties to hold the motor back, I only got about 20 feet before the motor snapped both ties.

Nice to see some more TSDZ2 success stories. To clarify, the zip tie in my picture is just holding some cables. I, too, had to find out the hard way that zip ties aren't enough to hold this motor.

If you don't mind me asking, how did you get the motor to stay rotated forward even when idle? Is it just a matter of tightening the rings that go between the motor and the pedals until the motor is fixed in place?

 

[EMGX]

sorry, this is the image is what I was referring to regarding the zip tie. It doesn't look to be doing anything because under assist the motor wants to rotate forward and up to the down tube anyway and resting or pedaling without assist my motor has never rotated down or back. I tighten the collar nut with the special wrench very snug.


This is the bike that my 36v 500w version is currently on. I've had it on 4 different bikes. For this one I probably could have used the stock anti-rotation bracket unmodified but I would have had to remove the kickstand and I prefer the motor housing protruding forward of the chainring instead of underneath. I haven't previously read of the housing breaking like yours and LimboJim but it is good to be aware of this possibility - I'll deal with it if it happens to mine.

 

[tomjasz]

I kinda wish I'd bought my TSDZ2 from Eco Cycles to begin with

Absolutely the BEST source for all things TSDZ2!!!!

FABULOUS CUSTOMER RESPONSE AND SERVICE.

 

[PedalUma]

@ultra_deluxe, Can you give us all an update? With photos?
On cargo bikes I drill and reinforce. The motor must not move in the BB shell. I also use shims in side the shell. Onetime I drilled the downtube and put in a reinforced bolt to keep the motor from rotating forward. That was on a very weird one. The weird ones are attracted to me; who knows why? I don't just get recumbents which are all weird, I get the weird for recumbent, recumbents. I always use stronger and longer bolts to the block, or they will sheer. The stainless look nice but I paint the strong ones to prevent rust. I am normally reshaping the block for each bike to increase contact area. Here you will see the hardened black bolts behind the seat tubes.

 

[JES2020]

My TSDZ2 cracked down the center while climbing a steep hill. This caused the gears to separate enough that they could no longer grip each other.

View attachment 94100

If you're wondering how on earth this happened, I have some guesses but I'm no engineer. For one, I left it out the "fixing block" since it didn't fit my frame, but as a result there was nothing to keep the motor from rotating/vibrating other than some rubber padding and zipties. Also, I was probably on the wrong gear to be climbing a hill. I haven't seen anyone else with the same problem so it's probably not a design issue.

Anyway, there's a die-cast TSDZ motor casing on Aliexpress for $80-ish but I'm skeptical about it. If the stock casing is also made of solid metal and still cracked, what's to keep the replacement from suffering the same fate? And can I reduce the risk of it breaking again by getting longer screws or making some sort of custom fixing block?

Wow, Way to many problems with mid drives for my patience. My advice, switch to a hub motor.

 

[PedalUma]

I have had a hub kit sitting here for 10-months. No one wants it, not after riding a mid-drive.
For something even more simple than a hub-drive, try this one. It is a clean build without messy connectors, less moving parts and only $999.99.

 

[JES2020]

I have had a hub kit sitting here for 10-months. No one wants it, not after riding a mid-drive.
For something even more simple than a hub-drive, try this one. It is a clean build without messy connectors, less moving parts and only $999.99.

You're having trouble giving away a hub kit for 10 months ??????? Where I live I only see hub ebikes.
I'll take it, no questions asked ! Working or not !
How do you want to go about giving it to me?

 

[JES2020]

I have had a hub kit sitting here for 10-months. No one wants it, not after riding a mid-drive.
For something even more simple than a hub-drive, try this one. It is a clean build without messy connectors, less moving parts and only $999.99.

Be aware without pedals, that ebike in the pic would NOT be legal in many parts of the world !

 

[LimboJim]

Wow, Way to many problems with mid drives for my patience. My advice, switch to a hub motor.

A friend of mine burned up his hub motor riding up a long hill. Much less likely to happen with a mid-drive...

 

[JES2020]

A friend of mine burned up his hub motor riding up a long hill. Much less likely to happen with a mid-drive...

Well your friend could have pedled up the hill with very little to no pedal assist. On the other hand....
A friend of mine snapped his chain with his mid drive (had to walk 10 miles home"up hill"), not a problem with a hub and throttle.

 

[EMGX]

Be aware without pedals, that ebike in the pic would NOT be legal in many parts of the world !

Throw the little miscreant in jail. It's a little kid's kick bike.

 

[PedalUma]

I just had my first case of a chain break. The Dr. who owns the bike is a very strong ridder. He has a huge Yuba Mundo and takes two kids to school on it and he lives on a hill. He has been pedaling at a low cadence in full power. That said, it sure is easier popping in a quick-link than changing a tube on a hub-drive. People have me remove hub-drives from bikes to install mid-drives.
That Hotwalk sure is clean. https://www.specialized.com/us/en/h...MIqIOTs7KT8wIVQ7GGCh2o2AGrEAQYASABEgIuvPD_BwE
Around here if you break a chain on a hub-drive and it has a throttle on the handlebar, then it is illegal. You have to walk those ten-miles. Class 2 bikes are required to have working pedals.

 

[JES2020]

You mean you are a bike mechanic? Haven't you learned how to fix a flat without taking the wheel off???
Here's another clue ,

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiaxtvpt5PzAhWtAp0JHf-lAZUQwqsBegQIBBAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D3bVFMZGnfeg&usg=AOvVaw3NGDmgGU3mjFj9bE5sTS7n

Where do you live where ebike throttles are illegal?
Oh and what about the hub kit you can't give away?? I offered to take it off your hands. What gives?

 

[JES2020]

I just had my first case of a chain break. The Dr. who owns the bike is a very strong ridder. He has a huge Yuba Mundo and takes two kids to school on it and he lives on a hill. He has been pedaling at a low cadence in full power. That said, it sure is easier popping in a quick-link than changing a tube on a hub-drive. People have me remove hub-drives from bikes to install mid-drives.
That Hotwalk sure is clean. https://www.specialized.com/us/en/h...MIqIOTs7KT8wIVQ7GGCh2o2AGrEAQYASABEgIuvPD_BwE
Around here if you break a chain on a hub-drive and it has a throttle on the handlebar, then it is illegal. You have to walk those ten-miles. Class 2 bikes are required to have working pedals.

"Around here if you break a chain on a hub-drive and it has a throttle on the handlebar, then it is illegal. You have to walk those ten-miles. Class 2 bikes are required to have working pedals."

Ahh I believe the hub drive will still function with-out a chain...correct me if I'm wrong . I think it's called PAS or something.
So even in the restrictive world you live in, you don't even need a throttle to keep riding a hub drive. seems like simplicity wins out every time in my book.

 

[PedalUma]

Class 2 bikes are required to have working pedals

If you are in the Northern Coastal California area I will sell you the 29er 36V 350w wheel kit at half of what I paid. It cost me $420. The guy tested it on a hill and made me remove it and install a mid-drive. The hub kit has a twist throttle. If the bike is silently on and you are off the bike trying to maneuver, say through double glass doors, and you put your hand on it the bike could go flying. I have seen those tubes and have sold them as emergency limp mode tubes to make it to the next service station exit. Class 2 bikes must be able to operate with pedal power(AB 1096). For that they require a chain.
I am also into simplicity.

 

[JES2020]

Oh, you're selling the hub kit? That is probably the reason no one wants it !!!
You left out that important point.
I would take it off your hands even though it's under powered and a direct drive. The throttle iss u mention is a none issue, just put a thumb throttle on it.
You have confused the issue further by posting pics of front and rear wheel hubs, I assume you are trying to SELL both?
Adding more confusion, you claimed I said "Class 2 bikes are required to have working pedals"
Which I didn't. AND your logic is faulty in saying because it has pedals it needs chains, which is completely wrong and make me wonder if you have ever ridden a hub ebike.
GAME, SET, MATCH !

 

[tomjasz]

Oh, you're selling the hub kit? That is probably the reason no one wants it !!!

Another clueless self ingratiating and anecdotal review.