My Izip Dash got "Horns"

[Charly Banana]

I read so many great reviews about the Ergon ergonomic bicycle grips that I had to try them out. They are unbelievably comfortable! It's so nice to have various grip positions. I find the end bars to help give more power to the legs in climbing hills. The ones I got are the Ergon GP5-S with long ends.

The wings on the main grips are really comfortable for the wrist. When I'm riding, sometimes I feel like I'm riding a bull by the horns.

 

[Chris Nolte]

Great Grips! I guess you drilled out the grip to fit the mirror in the bar end. We just did that recently for someone.

 

[Admin]

They look great @Charly Banana, I actually just bought some Ergon grips for a bike I've been setting up and I love them. The long horns look great on your setup and I like that you could include the mirror there at the bottom too

 

[Ravi Kempaiah]

Looks great Charly...!
I have them and I haven't experienced any fatigue in my wrists. Totally worthy investment.
Mirrcycle mirror, Ergon grips, raised stem, Marathon Plus tires, Topeak rack/pannier - looks like your bike is decked out.
Are you going on a XC tour?

 

[Aushiker]

Another vote for them. I have the Ergon GP1 grips on three bikes ...



Andrew

 

[Brian(J)]

Hey Charly,
it looks like you have removed the entire throttle assembly, if not where did you move it. It's a mystery!

 

[Charly Banana]

I was wondering if anyone would notice that. As always, Brian(J), you have great attention to detail. I thought about the throttle when installing the grips. Since I never use the throttle, why install it? So, I ran a test to see if an error code would result if I ran with the throttle disconnected. There was no error code, even in the throttle mode. The Hall-Effect throttle gives 0.82 volts at zero position, but the controller only starts giving motor commands at 1.5 volts. So, 0.00 volts and 0.82 volts are essentially the same input.
However, I've taken measurements and the Ergon grip can be shortened to work with the oem throttle. One can even buy a shortened version of the Ergon grip. I also have a Hall-Effect Thumb Throttle that I've purchased and tested that I thought about using it either on the right hand side or left hand side.
But, honestly, since I live out in the country and only ride country roads, I have no use for the throttle. On my 20 mile loop that I normally take, I only have 3 stop signs and rarely even stop for them. For me, it's all about pedal assist. And even that's changing. More than half of my route I'm now using pedal assist 0.

 

[Brian(J)]

That is interesting, because I have severe carpel tunnel issues and my wrists have been killing me from riding the bike. MT bars are basically designed to give you severe wrist and arm issues, that's why there are so many accessories like horns to bolt onto them.
I have been considering my options, even going to drop bars, but adapting the brake sensors and the throttle to a drop bar is also difficult.
I would love to know more about that thumb throttle.

Thanks for all the inspiration,

Brian

 

[Charly Banana]

That is interesting, because I have severe carpel tunnel issues and my wrists have been killing me from riding the bike. MT bars are basically designed to give you severe wrist and arm issues, that's why there are so many accessories like horns to bolt onto them.
I have been considering my options, even going to drop bars, but adapting the brake sensors and the throttle to a drop bar is also difficult.
I would love to know more about that thumb throttle.

Thanks for all the inspiration,

Brian

Here's the Thumb Throttle I bought.
http://www.ebay.com
It's a Hall-Effect Throttle.
Red wire = +5 volts input
Yellow wire = GND input
Green wire = Output
At zero throttle position: Output = 0.83 volts
At max throttle position: Output = 4.61 volts
The connectors are not compatible so the connector would need to be changed. Shouldn't be hard to do.

The oem bars were killing my wrists. The Ergon grips really are comfortable and with the horns you can vary arm position to help also.

 

[Brian(J)]

I have to find a way to ride with my hands 'thumbs up' to take the stess off my wrists, and my style is the opposite of yours, I think. Full speed assist 4 and often full throttle in heavy urban traffic- often standing on the pedals. I find it safest to ride out in the traffic while keeping up with and passing the cars. So, lots of braking, stop and go, etc. I need access to the throttle, brakes, and shifter especially the front brake which is 80% of my braking.
I have a couple of handlebar end 'T's on order and in the meantime I added round foam pads to the bar ends. I ride palms to the pads, thumbs up, and brake with my fingertips. My sense of your system is that it leaves my hands too far from the controls.
I have been looking at 'hidden wire sensors' as a means to replace my current brake levers with something different, the sensors would cut out the power when braking.

Thanks for the tip on that throttle, at that price I bought one.

 

[Deleted member 803]

I have the same horns on my road bike. I am glad to know they can be drilled out for a mirror. Ergon grips are made for bar click shifters and the will work for bars with a throttle. Not sure if you can get wings though.

 

[lemmitrek]

I was wondering if anyone would notice that. As always, Brian(J), you have great attention to detail. I thought about the throttle when installing the grips. Since I never use the throttle, why install it? So, I ran a test to see if an error code would result if I ran with the throttle disconnected. There was no error code, even in the throttle mode. The Hall-Effect throttle gives 0.82 volts at zero position, but the controller only starts giving motor commands at 1.5 volts. So, 0.00 volts and 0.82 volts are essentially the same input.
However, I've taken measurements and the Ergon grip can be shortened to work with the oem throttle. One can even buy a shortened version of the Ergon grip. I also have a Hall-Effect Thumb Throttle that I've purchased and tested that I thought about using it either on the right hand side or left hand side.
But, honestly, since I live out in the country and only ride country roads, I have no use for the throttle. On my 20 mile loop that I normally take, I only have 3 stop signs and rarely even stop for them. For me, it's all about pedal assist. And even that's changing. More than half of my route I'm now using pedal assist 0.

Hi Charly,
I have tried to switch to Ergon Grips yesterday, but I was not able to pull the cable out of the housing. I followed the instructions
https://sites.google.com/a/curriete...ical-support/1-component-replacement/throttle
I was afraid that I would break something. Is there a trick to do this? I would assume that there is not a big difference between 2014 and 2015 model.

 

[Shea N Encinitas]

I installed Ergons on Friday, it took me about 20 minutes to fish out the correct throttle connector, being careful not to stress the other wires. There was a yellow jacketed lead that was not connected to anything and tugging on the correct wire at the top of the downtube help me keep my eye on the prize. I had to rearrange a few wires there at the BB, and eventually I was able to position the connector forward, and then out enough to disconnect. If you are going to pull the lead I suggest you tie some dental floss around it in case you want to re-install the throttle, if you were to sell the bike latter for example, you will have a pull line to replace it. Getting that huge gromit back in position can be tricky as there are cables under tension between the 'flap' and frame. After cleaning with a toothbrush I used a little spit to coax it in place. -S

 

[lemmitrek]

I installed Ergons on Friday, it took me about 20 minutes to fish out the correct throttle connector, being careful not to stress the other wires. There was a yellow jacketed lead that was not connected to anything and tugging on the correct wire at the top of the downtube help me keep my eye on the prize. I had to rearrange a few wires there at the BB, and eventually I was able to position the connector forward, and then out enough to disconnect. If you are going to pull the lead I suggest you tie some dental floss around it in case you want to re-install the throttle, if you were to sell the bike latter for example, you will have a pull line to replace it. Getting that huge gromit back in position can be tricky as there are cables under tension between the 'flap' and frame. After cleaning with a toothbrush I used a little spit to coax it in place. -S

Thanks for the quick response. I had opened the cable channel from the bottom as well, but everything looked pretty rigid. Pulling on the other side did not move anything. How far down is the throttle connector?
Were you able to see the connector form the bottom entry?
I had trouble to get the rubber back on as well. My shed was really cold and the rubber was stiff. Moved the bike inside the garage and used a hairdryer to warm up the rubber. That helped.

 

[Shea N Encinitas]

How far down is the throttle connector? Were you able to see the connector from the bottom entry?

The connector is in the BB cluster, so the wire runs from the throttle, into the downtube and joins the rats net at the BB.
I could not see the plastic connector at first, had to jockey some other leads and cables, it is dark brown, not very big (aprx .2 x .4 in) - has a daub of silicon at the wire inputs. I was on my back looking up, my hands were getting sore from all the finagling but I love the new grips so it was definitely worth it. -S

 

[lemmitrek]

The connector is in the BB cluster, so the wire runs from the throttle, into the downtube and joins the rats net at the BB.
I could not see the plastic connector at first, had to jockey some other leads and cables, it is dark brown, not very big (aprx .2 x .4 in) - has a daub of silicon at the wire inputs. I was on my back looking up, my hands were getting sore from all the finagling but I love the new grips so it was definitely worth it. -S

Sorry for being a bit dense today. Just to be sure what is displayed here at the beginning was down at the bottom?-W

 

[Shea N Encinitas]

Yeah maybe that is Peak specific, I looked for it from the same tech doc, same position, even pulled about 3 inches of the lead out from the top but ended up tracing it to the BB. I wish it was up high like the photo. -S

 

[lemmitrek]

Yeah maybe that is Peak specific, I looked for it from the same tech doc, same position, even pulled about 3 inches of the lead out from the top but ended up tracing it to the BB. I wish it was up high like the photo. -S

That makes me feel better. Did even realize that the picture says Peak. I will check tonight and give it another try.

 

[lemmitrek]

Shea, I followed your instruction and was able to pull it off. Without your guidance, I would have given up. This is quite messy and it is too bad that the tech note on the Currier site is wrong. I tried to pull it out from the upper part and that did not help at all.

Here are some picture in case somebody else is trying it. Good advice with with the string if you want to undo it at some point. ;-)
It took me a while to find it the right cable.

 

[Shea N Encinitas]

Wow, that's alot of guts! I hope you were able to gently stuff it all back together, no errors. Great job on the pictures BTW.