motor cuts out at times

Stu

New Member
I have a FLX roadster It has a Bafang 500w motor and with a 36v battery and throttle. I'll be pedaling along, no throttle just PAS and all of a sudden the power will quite and then pop back on My wife describe it has like some was pumping their gas pedal. Does anyone have a clue about what might be causing the problem we have 2 bikes and the problem is appearing on both of them. I was thinking a torque sensor Any one have a clue Thanks
 
Does it do this with a full battery, or only when the battery level is low? Have you cleaned the battery and battery socket contacts? Are the batteries a little loose or do they rattle? Have you used dielectric grease on the contacts?

I've also got a Roadster which, although it doesn't have many miles and doesn't get ridden in the rain, does not exhibit this characteristic. I do not have the throttle.

When I first got the bike I would have some issues with the display going blank, and total motor cut-off. I sprayed some contact cleaner into the plugs/sockets going into the display and haven't had recurrence of this issue lately.

Do you get the same "pumping the gas pedal" if using the throttle only? Might point more to the torque sensor if it doesn't happen with throttle only.

I had a similar issue with a Bosch mid-drive, but it only seemed to happen when the battery was 2-3 bars or lower. Cleaned everything up, but still happened some. Battery didn't seem overly loose, but I put a short (4") piece of self-adhesive weatherstrip foam under the battery and the issue has never happened again.
 
I'll try electric spray on contacts. It definitely happens at hi speed in the 20'smph and just using PAS. Even with the throttle the pumping will happen. I'll try the spray electric cleaner. Thanks
 
I think it is 28mph limit but not sure that could be it. If it is how can I over ride it
 
I think it is 28mph limit but not sure that could be it. If it is how can I over ride it
1)Turn on the bike like normal.
2) Press and hold both up and down arrow keys
3) When you get the next screen arrow down to 'Information'
4) When you get to the Information screen, I think the second line down is Speed Limit. Arrow down to it and hit the mode button
5) Mine is set at 32. Don't know whether this is mph since I'm in imperial units
6) If yours is not set at 32 (the max) change it with arrow keys
7) Press and hold both up and down arrow keys to return to main (riding) display screen
8) Let us know what you found and if it helps!
 
It didn't seem to help I brough the bike into the shop since it is still under warranty
 
I took it to the shop actually 2 bikes and neither of them acted up so in there mind there was no problem. WRONG At this point I will take it back and probably rideover about 6 miles because it cuts out more often when the engine is warmed up. The other day after putting about 6 mi on it and then letting it sit for a couple of hours the PAS didn't work at all on the ride home but the throttle worked. Yesterday I rode about 10 mi and all things worked as designed. I am leaning toward a PAS problem. I don't really know how a torque sensor works but I think that is where the problem lies.
 
have a look at how the battery is locked into the frame, with the battery in place, can you move it at all? the slightest disconnection is enough to cause a spark between the contacts and this will result in a power loss.
 
Look at the date of Stu's last post in this thread 88. You could be waiting a while for an answer.

If you didn't know you can click on his name and go to his profile area. Click on his name again, then click on "postings" and see when his last activity was. If he is still posting here put @ before his name in a post and he'll get a notification.

I got a result a little akin to his original post when I was first riding my ebike. Turns out I was drapping my hands over the brakes with a little too much weight and getting brake motor cutout to working here and there.
 
O.K. Thanks Merle.

It's not my hands, but, I'll look at the disc brakes at little closer.

What is very strange is that it's "regular." Every 12 rotations of the pedal the motor cuts-out or pauses very briefly.
 
No....I was just yammering by that point. That doesn't sound like your issue at all.

Someone will have some real ideas.
 
O.K. Thanks Merle.

It's not my hands, but, I'll look at the disc brakes at little closer.

What is very strange is that it's "regular." Every 12 rotations of the pedal the motor cuts-out or pauses very briefly.
It sounds like it is somehow out of phase which is weird and would not know how to fix.
A guy had a similar problem two days ago and brought me his bike. I was thinking from the way he described the problem on the phone that it could be his torque sensor, cadence sensor, or controller $$$. It turns out that the wheel magnet (located on a rear spoke) was twisted by 45 degrees. The in-person diagnosis and repair took ten-seconds. He was super happy. I did not charge him.

Funny side story: A guy had a bucking bike. It was a hub-drive with PAS magnets. Some of the magnets were in reverse polarity. If you want to play a trick on someone reverse some of their PAS magnets.
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I have the same pumping the gas accelerator pedal effect. I have Bafang front hub drive and rear mounted battery. Climbing a hill there are the power no power, but on flats it’s fine. Another post mentioned could be loose battery connection since the hill is full of potholes and road surface irregularities that’s causing rattles. I’ll report back my findings.
 
I have the same pumping the gas accelerator pedal effect. I have Bafang front hub drive and rear mounted battery. Climbing a hill there are the power no power, but on flats it’s fine. Another post mentioned could be loose battery connection since the hill is full of potholes and road surface irregularities that’s causing rattles. I’ll report back my findings.
Definitely look at the battery connections.
Among the things to also check such as the wheel magnet alignment and 2mm distance from the pickup, check that the PAS pickup at the crank is about the thickness of a nickel from the magnetic wheel. If the wheel magnet & speed sensor are too far apart sometimes I will stack a second magnet on the first, that is if moving them closer is not practical. Spokes are flexing on bumpy stuff. Check that they are evenly tight because that gap distance to the pickup could be flexing causing a temporary cutout. I hope this helps.
 
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