spokewrench
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I've read that presta valves are better than Schraders because prestas were designed specifically for bicycles. To the contrary, Etienne Sclaverand invented the presta in 1800. Nobody was even experimenting with pneumatic tires. Schrader developed his valve for bicycles in 1890.
I've read that prestas will hold higher pressure. The lowest rating for a Schrader is 200 PSI. The issue is irrelevant.
Some say prestas hold air better. In case the core leaked, Schrader designed the cap with a gasket. The issue is irrelevant, but I know what they mean. The other day I bought a gauge with a hose and quarter-inch NPT fittings. In a series of checks on a tire, and each averaged 2 PSI lower than the last. That much air was hissing out as I pushed the chuck onto the valve and pulled it off. Chucks like that seem to be the reason many ebike manufacturers have gone to presta valves.
It wasn't always that way. In the 1950s and 60s, I rode on 26 x 1-3/8 tires at 60 PSI. I could connect and disconnect my frame-mounted pump without hissing. In 1972 I bought a German motorycle that I rode 25 years. The latex tubes required air every couple of weeks. It was convenient because the hose from the frame-mounted pump, and the dial gauge, would go on and off without the hiss of escaping air.
What changed? From 1937 to 1945, there were 30 million motor vehicles in the US, one for every 5 Americans. Bicycles were important, especially when gas was rationed. If there's a hiss on disconnecting, a bicyclist won't know how much pressure remains. Besides, Americans depended on manual pumps at home. An instant of hissing meant additional pumping. The secret to a good chuck was a thick, soft washer that could seal against the rim of the valve, then be squeezed down as the chuck pin opened the valve.
By 1965, the number of American motor vehicles had tripled to 90 million. By 1985, it had jumped to 170 million. Gas stations with free air disappeared. There was a huge consumer market for pressure gauges and electric pumps. A soft washer may reach the point where if won't seal, making it impossible for a gauge to get a good reading or a small pump to fill a tire. A professional would keep spare washers, but a consumer might vow never again to buy that brand.
A harder washer would hold up better. The trade-off would be hissing as the chuck went on and came off. Air is almost weightless, so it doesn't take long for a liter to hiss out. If a consumer lost a liter from a 30 liter tire at 30 PSI, he'd lose 0.3 PSI and probably wouldn't notice. On a 3 liter bicycle tire, the same hiss would lose 3 PSI. What's more, a bicycle would probably lose more because it's harder to seat and remove a chuck from a bicycle wheel in a quick, deft movement.
Ball chucks still work. The ones I’d used screwed onto 1/4 inch pipe threads, so I bought a compressor, an inflator with a digital gauge, and a ball chuck. i discovered that leaving a tank charged makes it rust ten times faster, which could lead to bursting. To top off a tire I'd have to start the compressor, pull out the hose, move the bike within reach, and wait for tank pressure. Afterward, I'd shut off the switch, pull the release valve, open the drain valve, and put up the hose. It was easier to add a few strokes with a manual pump in the old days.
I bought a pocket-sized rechargeable pump with a digital gauge. The locking chuck was of good quality but hissed badly. If I connected it to a tire at 30 PSI, it would read 28. I’d pump until it read 31, then remove it and check with a gauge: 28. In other words, I typically lost 2 PSI connecting it and 3 PSI disconnecting it. The amount lost in hissing is unpredictable, so I wouldn’t know how much pressure was left after I disconnected the chuck.
When I spotted a clipped ball chuck with barbs for clamping into a hose, I ordered it. There was a problem. When I released the spring-loaded lever with the same hand that held the chuck on the valve, the chuck could go askew as it latched. I made the hose a rigid handle by putting vinyl tubing over it, slipping in two nails, and clamping.
Now if I measure tire pressure, clip the pump chuck on, take it off, and measure again, I find I haven’t lost even 0.1 PSI. The pump's digital gauge reads to the nearest 0.5 PSI. I've found it to be that accurate. The specs say plus or minus 2 PSI. I guess that was as good as the engineers could do on car tires with the OEM chuck.
I have 27.5x 1.95 tires that hold 3 liters, 20 x 2.4 tires that hold 4 liters, and 20 x 3.3 tires that hold 8 liters. I removed the core from an 8 liter tire to reduce the pressure to zero. It would take 16 liters to bring it to 30 PSI. The rechargeable pump took 2.2 minutes, at 7.3 liters per minute.
Each inflation/deflation cycle took 2.5 minutes. The tire was nearly inflated the seventh time when the pump shut off. A pump extracts heat from the air. The manual warns to shut it off to cool after 15 minutes. It had run fine when it quit, and it ran fine when I came back, so it seems to have been a protection circuit.
I inflated the tire for the eighth time. The charge indicator has three bars. One had gone out quickly. Two were still lit. If that means the battery was still more than 2/3 charged, it looks as if the battery is really good for an hour of pumping as the specs say. Amazing!
No laying out air lines or power cords, no waiting for the compressor. Just clip the chuck on, see what the pump's gauge says, and if necessary, press the button to top off. Like a 500ml bottle of “spring water,” it weighs 18 ounces. Out on the road, my punctures have been slow enough that this pump could have brought me home.
I've read that prestas will hold higher pressure. The lowest rating for a Schrader is 200 PSI. The issue is irrelevant.
Some say prestas hold air better. In case the core leaked, Schrader designed the cap with a gasket. The issue is irrelevant, but I know what they mean. The other day I bought a gauge with a hose and quarter-inch NPT fittings. In a series of checks on a tire, and each averaged 2 PSI lower than the last. That much air was hissing out as I pushed the chuck onto the valve and pulled it off. Chucks like that seem to be the reason many ebike manufacturers have gone to presta valves.
It wasn't always that way. In the 1950s and 60s, I rode on 26 x 1-3/8 tires at 60 PSI. I could connect and disconnect my frame-mounted pump without hissing. In 1972 I bought a German motorycle that I rode 25 years. The latex tubes required air every couple of weeks. It was convenient because the hose from the frame-mounted pump, and the dial gauge, would go on and off without the hiss of escaping air.
What changed? From 1937 to 1945, there were 30 million motor vehicles in the US, one for every 5 Americans. Bicycles were important, especially when gas was rationed. If there's a hiss on disconnecting, a bicyclist won't know how much pressure remains. Besides, Americans depended on manual pumps at home. An instant of hissing meant additional pumping. The secret to a good chuck was a thick, soft washer that could seal against the rim of the valve, then be squeezed down as the chuck pin opened the valve.
By 1965, the number of American motor vehicles had tripled to 90 million. By 1985, it had jumped to 170 million. Gas stations with free air disappeared. There was a huge consumer market for pressure gauges and electric pumps. A soft washer may reach the point where if won't seal, making it impossible for a gauge to get a good reading or a small pump to fill a tire. A professional would keep spare washers, but a consumer might vow never again to buy that brand.
A harder washer would hold up better. The trade-off would be hissing as the chuck went on and came off. Air is almost weightless, so it doesn't take long for a liter to hiss out. If a consumer lost a liter from a 30 liter tire at 30 PSI, he'd lose 0.3 PSI and probably wouldn't notice. On a 3 liter bicycle tire, the same hiss would lose 3 PSI. What's more, a bicycle would probably lose more because it's harder to seat and remove a chuck from a bicycle wheel in a quick, deft movement.
Ball chucks still work. The ones I’d used screwed onto 1/4 inch pipe threads, so I bought a compressor, an inflator with a digital gauge, and a ball chuck. i discovered that leaving a tank charged makes it rust ten times faster, which could lead to bursting. To top off a tire I'd have to start the compressor, pull out the hose, move the bike within reach, and wait for tank pressure. Afterward, I'd shut off the switch, pull the release valve, open the drain valve, and put up the hose. It was easier to add a few strokes with a manual pump in the old days.
I bought a pocket-sized rechargeable pump with a digital gauge. The locking chuck was of good quality but hissed badly. If I connected it to a tire at 30 PSI, it would read 28. I’d pump until it read 31, then remove it and check with a gauge: 28. In other words, I typically lost 2 PSI connecting it and 3 PSI disconnecting it. The amount lost in hissing is unpredictable, so I wouldn’t know how much pressure was left after I disconnected the chuck.
When I spotted a clipped ball chuck with barbs for clamping into a hose, I ordered it. There was a problem. When I released the spring-loaded lever with the same hand that held the chuck on the valve, the chuck could go askew as it latched. I made the hose a rigid handle by putting vinyl tubing over it, slipping in two nails, and clamping.
Now if I measure tire pressure, clip the pump chuck on, take it off, and measure again, I find I haven’t lost even 0.1 PSI. The pump's digital gauge reads to the nearest 0.5 PSI. I've found it to be that accurate. The specs say plus or minus 2 PSI. I guess that was as good as the engineers could do on car tires with the OEM chuck.
I have 27.5x 1.95 tires that hold 3 liters, 20 x 2.4 tires that hold 4 liters, and 20 x 3.3 tires that hold 8 liters. I removed the core from an 8 liter tire to reduce the pressure to zero. It would take 16 liters to bring it to 30 PSI. The rechargeable pump took 2.2 minutes, at 7.3 liters per minute.
Each inflation/deflation cycle took 2.5 minutes. The tire was nearly inflated the seventh time when the pump shut off. A pump extracts heat from the air. The manual warns to shut it off to cool after 15 minutes. It had run fine when it quit, and it ran fine when I came back, so it seems to have been a protection circuit.
I inflated the tire for the eighth time. The charge indicator has three bars. One had gone out quickly. Two were still lit. If that means the battery was still more than 2/3 charged, it looks as if the battery is really good for an hour of pumping as the specs say. Amazing!
No laying out air lines or power cords, no waiting for the compressor. Just clip the chuck on, see what the pump's gauge says, and if necessary, press the button to top off. Like a 500ml bottle of “spring water,” it weighs 18 ounces. Out on the road, my punctures have been slow enough that this pump could have brought me home.
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