Ordered 4 Milano+ today for the wife, and 3 neighbor's / friends.
Hopefully they are as well built and issue free as my new Moscow! Little jealous everyone get's hyd brakes except me !
I would prefer rim brakes because they put less stress on the spokes. Also with discs on a rear hub, it can beI all honesty, I feel my V-brakes on my Dahon Espresso stop me way quicker than the hydraulic disc brakes. Apples to oranges comparisons but I feel under-impressed with disc brakes overall, the Moscow+ is my first bike with disc brakes. My other bikes (all V-brakes) can absolutely lock the tires at any speed and have tremendous leverage over a disc brake, I really don't get the love of disc brakes. They have to run hotter, they have less mechanical advantage that they try to make up for by gripping the rotor extra hard.
I realize calipers and pistons in the disc brake can squeeze VERY hard, but they just need to manufacture a caliper and piston out on the rim and that would be a far better brake that runs cooler and has better leverage to stop the wheel. It would be like a 27.5" brake rotor, lol.
I'd love to do a stopping distance comparison between my Dahon Espresso and my Moscow Plus from the same speed with the same rider. The Moscow is much heavier I admit.
I would prefer rim brakes because they put less stress on the spokes. Also with discs on a rear hub, it can be
necessary to remove the disc the replace a broken spoke, a labor intensive pain in the butt. The rim brakes
on my 37 yr.old road bike stop just as well on the discs on my ebike. They even make hydraulic rim brakes
these days. Rims are far simpler to maintain. I´ve seriously consider putting rims on my moscow, at least
on the rear wheel.
I've had several broken spokes and have managed to replace them without removing the wheel. I just had my 1st breakage that would normally require removing the wheel and disc to put the replacement in properly. I chose to put the replacement in backwards as suggested above. I'll have to see how that works out. Like Bitmugger, I intend to get the whole wheel relaced/retrued properly at the end of this riding season. In fact, I am considering a complete wheel rebuild to hopefully avoid this never-ending issue for next season. (PS I never considered temporarily reusing the nipple to avoid deflating the tire, pulling the rim tape aside, etc....so thanks for that tip)I have broken my 4th spoke now and have managed to avoid getting one of the spokes that require the disc to be removed but when it does happen and I'm in the field my thought is to put the spoke in backwards (in terms of orientation through the hub hole) and ride it home that way. Any thoughts on how that trick would work longer term until maybe I had a few spokes that were in backwards then remove the disc and correct them at once? You've got tons more spoke experience, how do you deal with the hard to change spokes that break on a ride? I'd basically like to do several quickie spoke changes in the field and then occasional full wheel disassembles when I've broken a few. So in the field I'll re-use the nipple for instance to save deflating the tire. I must say I am really annoyed NCM has this issue and never addresses it, it seems like a few experiments with lacing and spoke quality and/or chamfering the hub holes would reveal a solution they could implement, or at least have a spoke replacement policy and if you are struck with issues send you 5-10 spokes anytime you need them under the warranty period, my bike was 2 months old and NCM Canada told me to get lost but NCM Australia has a policy of no-fuss spoke replacements for bikes even over a year old.
We've discussed disc brakes before in another thread and like yourself I am totally over them, I'd take a rim brake any day and would love to try hydraulic rim brakes. Discs seem better in the wet for drying quicker and probably have an advantage in mud too but other than that I can't find anything to especially love about them, they work ok but don't seem like the next great thing and my son's disc got something on it or is out of true and although we tried lots of tutorials it required replacement where with a rim brake that pulsing would have signaled an out of true wheel and I'd have corrected it with tools (or been able to find the spot on the rim with debris). Total cost for disc and pads was under $30 so I will say components are cheap and that was with real Tektro ceramic pads and no-name discs but I could also replace the entire caliper assembly and pads for rim brakes for $30 (using cheapy parts), but the reality is nothing breaks on a rim brakes they just wear out and you need new pads.
If you´ve replaced as many as 4 spokes, you should be riding tires with thicker sidewalls & more psi. IfI've had several broken spokes and have managed to replace them without removing the wheel. I just had my 1st breakage that would normally require removing the wheel and disc to put the replacement in properly. I chose to put the replacement in backwards as suggested above. I'll have to see how that works out. Like Bitmugger, I intend to get the whole wheel relaced/retrued properly at the end of this riding season. In fact, I am considering a complete wheel rebuild to hopefully avoid this never-ending issue for next season. (PS I never considered temporarily reusing the nipple to avoid deflating the tire, pulling the rim tape aside, etc....so thanks for that tip)