I have a question for the RadCity owners. I know you can set the speed to 40km/h (25mph) on the LCD display from the factory setting of 32km/h(20mph). My question is does the bike achieve 25mph with throttle only when you do that? And is there a way to make the 750W direct drive motor go even faster (like 30mph) with LCD setting at 25mph with pedal assist. Reason why I asked is that I've been told that once pedal assist cuts off it is almost impossible to move the bike faster at top speed because of the direct drive motor has no clutch. So looking for input from actual owners. Thanks in advance.
Looking for owners of 2018 RadCity with questions on TOP SPEED using throttle ONLY as well as PAS
- Thread starter AZOldTech
- Start date
mrgold35
Well-Known Member
My wife has an 18 Radcity Step-Thru. It might depend on your riding environment like inclines, wind, height, and max weight for the Radcity to maintain 25 mph with throttle only. The 2018 7-speed 14-34 rear gears are made for comfortable pedaling at 20 mph on the Radcity. My wife starts to feel like a hamster in an exercise wheel if the speed get +22 mph on declines and she tries to pedal. I have the same gearing on my 16 Radrover and can still pedal comfortably at 22-23 mph (hamster mode starts at +24 mph). The upright riding position, gearing, and weight of the ebike is next to impossible to maintain +25 mph with zero power unless on a decline and/or a really still tail wind.
You do have the option of setting the motor cut-off to 40 km/h and "ghost pedal" instead of using the throttle. Works the same as using the throttle with the exception of you are limited in watts per PAS level (always 750w with throttle in any PAS level).
Other folks talked about adjusting the wheel size in the LCD set-up screen. I don't know what wheel size will increase the mph?Downside is your odometer, speed, and trip data will be off (might need to add an extra wired/wireless Odometer).
The +19 Rad Power Bikes are going to have a lower gear to make it easier to pedal at +20 mph (11-34 instead of 14-34). You might be able to reach 22-24 mph comfortable with the new gearing once you adjust the motor cut-off?
The biggest issues I have with maintaining +20 mph are:
- my size: 6'3" and +270 lbs has a lot for frontal area for the wind to hit. My wife at 4'11" cuts through the air on her Radcity so much easier than I do on my Rover. I sometimes draft behind her to help me out when we at at max speed.
- wind resistance: the upright riding position uses a lot more power for every 1 mph above 20 mph. You might cut your range significantly if you want to ride +25 mph constantly. Range or speed at +25 mph, can't have both.
- head winds+wind resistance: I don't ride if there are headwinds +20 mph. I've used up to 3-4 bars of power on my Radrover 11.6ah battery at PAS 4 trying to maintain 13-15 mph in +20 mph head winds with gust up to 30 mph on a 6 mile ride home (add +500 foot elevation gain). Cross winds don't effect me much, if not at all.
- stopping power: standard rad brakes are fine for 20 mph runs. I wouldn't feel comfortable trying to stop in an emergency at +25 mph with these brakes. I upgraded my Radrover to TRP Spykes and that reduced my emergency stopping distances and zero noise when braking when I work commute.
You do have the option of setting the motor cut-off to 40 km/h and "ghost pedal" instead of using the throttle. Works the same as using the throttle with the exception of you are limited in watts per PAS level (always 750w with throttle in any PAS level).
Other folks talked about adjusting the wheel size in the LCD set-up screen. I don't know what wheel size will increase the mph?Downside is your odometer, speed, and trip data will be off (might need to add an extra wired/wireless Odometer).
The +19 Rad Power Bikes are going to have a lower gear to make it easier to pedal at +20 mph (11-34 instead of 14-34). You might be able to reach 22-24 mph comfortable with the new gearing once you adjust the motor cut-off?
The biggest issues I have with maintaining +20 mph are:
- my size: 6'3" and +270 lbs has a lot for frontal area for the wind to hit. My wife at 4'11" cuts through the air on her Radcity so much easier than I do on my Rover. I sometimes draft behind her to help me out when we at at max speed.
- wind resistance: the upright riding position uses a lot more power for every 1 mph above 20 mph. You might cut your range significantly if you want to ride +25 mph constantly. Range or speed at +25 mph, can't have both.
- head winds+wind resistance: I don't ride if there are headwinds +20 mph. I've used up to 3-4 bars of power on my Radrover 11.6ah battery at PAS 4 trying to maintain 13-15 mph in +20 mph head winds with gust up to 30 mph on a 6 mile ride home (add +500 foot elevation gain). Cross winds don't effect me much, if not at all.
- stopping power: standard rad brakes are fine for 20 mph runs. I wouldn't feel comfortable trying to stop in an emergency at +25 mph with these brakes. I upgraded my Radrover to TRP Spykes and that reduced my emergency stopping distances and zero noise when braking when I work commute.
That is a fantastic post @mrgold35 . Thanks for taking the time. What does the TRP Spykes give you that the factory Tektro brakes don't? I mean they are both mechanical brakes and they both use 180mm rotor. So why are the TRP Spykes better?
mrgold35
Well-Known Member
I also upgraded the brake cables to Jagwire and TRP Spykes calipers at the same time.
I was having to adjust the standard brakes weekly on my rover. I was riding mostly for work commuting and couldn't get the right feel and stopping distance with the brakes. I was also starting to see broken brake strands near the handles and calipers. I also had commutes with a lot of loud (embarrassing) brake noise and longer emergency braking distances. It felt like my brakes were getting glazed over with trying to stop 70 lbs ebike with a +270 lbs rider at 20 mph.
The final straw was the broken brake cable strands gathering up in the brake handle. The broken strands acted like a spring keeping the handle from closing completely and enabling the motor cut-off sometimes when riding. All the broken strands in the picture below were stuffed in 1.5 inches of the brake handle.
The great thing about the TRP Spyke upgrades are:
- plug-n-play; fit on the ebike with no extra adapters or tools other than blue loctite, wire cutter (for old ferrules), replacement cable ferrules, and hex wrench
- TRP calipers squeeze from both sides instead of one side like the old brakes. Makes it easier to fine tune brake feel
- I don't adjust the brakes weekly like I did with the old ones, maybe once a month (50-75 miles per week)
- zero noise
- adjustment (so far) have just been a slight turn at the calipers to adjust the distance the pads are from the rotors. Can be tricky because the rotors are not 100% true and I don't want to rub when riding.
- bigger pad bite with less brake handle effort. I can come very close to locking up the rear wheel on a paved surface with TRP instead of a slow emergency stop with the old brakes. I know I would hit a car running a stop sign with the old brakes compared to stopping before that with TRP.
- They look cool
I was having to adjust the standard brakes weekly on my rover. I was riding mostly for work commuting and couldn't get the right feel and stopping distance with the brakes. I was also starting to see broken brake strands near the handles and calipers. I also had commutes with a lot of loud (embarrassing) brake noise and longer emergency braking distances. It felt like my brakes were getting glazed over with trying to stop 70 lbs ebike with a +270 lbs rider at 20 mph.
The final straw was the broken brake cable strands gathering up in the brake handle. The broken strands acted like a spring keeping the handle from closing completely and enabling the motor cut-off sometimes when riding. All the broken strands in the picture below were stuffed in 1.5 inches of the brake handle.
The great thing about the TRP Spyke upgrades are:
- plug-n-play; fit on the ebike with no extra adapters or tools other than blue loctite, wire cutter (for old ferrules), replacement cable ferrules, and hex wrench
- TRP calipers squeeze from both sides instead of one side like the old brakes. Makes it easier to fine tune brake feel
- I don't adjust the brakes weekly like I did with the old ones, maybe once a month (50-75 miles per week)
- zero noise
- adjustment (so far) have just been a slight turn at the calipers to adjust the distance the pads are from the rotors. Can be tricky because the rotors are not 100% true and I don't want to rub when riding.
- bigger pad bite with less brake handle effort. I can come very close to locking up the rear wheel on a paved surface with TRP instead of a slow emergency stop with the old brakes. I know I would hit a car running a stop sign with the old brakes compared to stopping before that with TRP.
- They look cool
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harryS
Well-Known Member
Aha! That explains it well, Aztech. I've never had the DD experience, especially when the controller shuts off. So you get pedal resistance from cogging and that is why you cannot pedal fast w/o power. Interesting. I agree with MrGold. Pick the 700cc wheel option if there is one in the menu. Then install a $10 bike computer. Only downside is having to change the batteries every six months.
Good to know that there is a better option on the mechanical brakes. IMO, Rad Power having some of the heaviest ebikes out there (for good reason I'm sure, cause they look very strong built), I think they should have gone the hydraulic brake route (but that would have raised prices unfortunately by probably $100).
Again, thanks for the info and taking the time to post.
mrgold35
Well-Known Member
I run my two 2016 Radrovers at 18-22 mph average for the last +2 years with around 6000 miles between them. I had to replace a few controllers and had some shipping damage all covered under warranty on the rovers. I have no doubts the 2018 RadCity Step-Thru will perform even better over the same amount of years. I'm already seeing far less quality issues and better performance out the box with the Radcity compared to my older Radrovers. I also had zero warranty claims or mechanical issues on the Radcity in the +6 months of ownership.
I'm not sure if the Radcity would run +25 mph constantly for years? I think I would look at a class III ebike made for 28 mph compared to forcing the Radcity up to that level.
I'm not sure if the Radcity would run +25 mph constantly for years? I think I would look at a class III ebike made for 28 mph compared to forcing the Radcity up to that level.
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
First, there's no way I could stay up with the pedals well enough to be of any assistance at speeds much over 16-17mph on my '18 City. I installed the 11 tooth freewheel to cure that issue. Now 20 mph is pretty easy to achieve on PAS 1 or 2 (of 5 available) on level ground w/no wind.
Second, at about 600 miles now, my factory brakes are functioning as well as they did when new, while remaining silent (thank you Lord!).
Last, when it comes to speed, my bike was fitted with an aftermarket 1500w DD "kit" (that also replaced the bike's entire electrical system, other than the battery itself). This mod was less than 300. leaving the bike still very affordable, even adding the price of the mod to the original. Though I didn't do it for the speed, the bike will maintain 30 mph+ pretty easily. I don't how far it will go like that on the factory battery. Hasn't been tested. I was more interested in the upgraded LCD3 display (with no factory lock outs), immediate throttle response (no soft start/throttle spool up time here), and the extra grunt available when accelerating from a stop that the 1500w motor gives me - which gave me all the confidence necessary for crossing busy roads.
And yes, bigger rider here too. At 6'2"/315, likely one of the bigger you'll see on a bike - which may account (partially at least!) for what I felt was less than stellar performance of the standard motor. -Al
Second, at about 600 miles now, my factory brakes are functioning as well as they did when new, while remaining silent (thank you Lord!).
Last, when it comes to speed, my bike was fitted with an aftermarket 1500w DD "kit" (that also replaced the bike's entire electrical system, other than the battery itself). This mod was less than 300. leaving the bike still very affordable, even adding the price of the mod to the original. Though I didn't do it for the speed, the bike will maintain 30 mph+ pretty easily. I don't how far it will go like that on the factory battery. Hasn't been tested. I was more interested in the upgraded LCD3 display (with no factory lock outs), immediate throttle response (no soft start/throttle spool up time here), and the extra grunt available when accelerating from a stop that the 1500w motor gives me - which gave me all the confidence necessary for crossing busy roads.
And yes, bigger rider here too. At 6'2"/315, likely one of the bigger you'll see on a bike - which may account (partially at least!) for what I felt was less than stellar performance of the standard motor. -Al
So in summary and just to confirm, that just changing the LCD display to the max speed of 40kmh (25mph) will give the RadCity 25mph sustain throttle ONLY speed on a flat paved no wind road. Cause it is very important to me that there is a way to get throttle only speed on a flat no wind paved road higher than 22-23mph, and that someone of the many people that own a RadCity/RadCity pass-thru have actually done it with throttle only and without pedaling (because IMO if you try to pedal at 25mph to make a difference with the current gears that the bike ships with you will truly look like a hamster
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mrgold35
Well-Known Member
You can reach/sustain 40 km/h with the throttle on the Radcity once you change the motor cut-off speed. Top speed might decrease on inclines, headwinds, if the rider or ebike isn't very aerodynamic because of the upright riding position and/or accessories, or near max weight 275 lbs allowed by the Radcity.
Two downsides with setting the motor cut-off to 40 km/h on the Radcity is that will be the motor cut-off mph for PAS 1-5. I save a little power on some of my downhill runs when I can pedal with some coasting +22 mph and the motor cut off on my Rover.
Second downside is the Radcity has regen braking in when you apply the brakes or coasting when you are in PAS 1-5. You will drop mph with Radcity faster compared to Rover or mini geared rear hub motor because of regen. You might have to constantly be on the throttle +20 mph even on declines. Never tried riding the Radcity in PAS 0 and use the throttle only. Don't know how the direct drive motor feels on the same declines with regen disabled in PAS 0?
Two downsides with setting the motor cut-off to 40 km/h on the Radcity is that will be the motor cut-off mph for PAS 1-5. I save a little power on some of my downhill runs when I can pedal with some coasting +22 mph and the motor cut off on my Rover.
Second downside is the Radcity has regen braking in when you apply the brakes or coasting when you are in PAS 1-5. You will drop mph with Radcity faster compared to Rover or mini geared rear hub motor because of regen. You might have to constantly be on the throttle +20 mph even on declines. Never tried riding the Radcity in PAS 0 and use the throttle only. Don't know how the direct drive motor feels on the same declines with regen disabled in PAS 0?
By downside of the "motor cut-off for PAS 1-5" you must mean that if you are at PAS 1-5, if you decide to use the throttle at max, the throttle will not go to max speed (I assume it will at PAS 5 but not PAS 1-4). If that is what you mean, in that RadCity PAS 1-4 limits the max speed even if you use the throttle, I'm aware of that situation in general on ebikes and can reprogram the throttle to reach max speed at all the PAS level. Assuming that is the downside you are referring to.
The biggest issue for me is that the 750W DD motor and the Amps of the controller can give all the juice needed to achieve sustain 25mph on a flat paved road with no wind with max throttle without overheating the motor or the controlller. Because I've seen bikes that promise 25mph with a 500W motor but can never reach or sustain that level on a flat paved road with no wind (for whatever reason, be it because of the motor windings that overheats the motor and shuts down or the limited Amps of the controller). IMO, the RadCity does have the right motor and the right controller to achieve and sustain 25mph on throttle only. Above that IMO, it willl take faking the actual speed so that the motor assist will not shut down and better gear ratios (both chainring and cassette), and of course pedaling. Tailwind and downhill would probably also help
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mrgold35
Well-Known Member
Rad Power Bikes are designed to provide full 750w power with the throttle in PAS 0-5. You can cut the time by a lot to reach max speed if you accelerate with the throttle, up shifting, and pedal hard at the same time. I do this when trying to get across intersections ASAP. You are just limited to X amount of watts per PAS level if you do pedal until the motor cut-off:
2016 Radrover power levels per PAS (haven't looked to see if the Radcity are set the same):
PAS 0: 0 watts
PAS 1: 75 watts
PAS 2: 175 watts
PAS 3: 375 watts
PAS 4: 550 watts
PAS 5: 750 watts
You can pedal to any speed you like until 32 km/h and then let the throttle take over to reach 40 km/h.
The motor cut-off speed will be exactly the same for PAS 1-5 and throttle once you change it in the LCD screen. The Radcity motor will provide power while pedaling in PAS 1-5 until you reach 40 km/h if you are not using the throttle. The 7 speed gearing for the 18 Radcity is really set to only 32 km/h or 20 mph max speed (maybe 21-22 mph; but, you will be pedaling like crazy person). Once you want to go faster than 20 mph (if pedaling), you can only use the throttle from 21-25 mph.
The Rad bikes controllers feels like it works differently for PAS 5 750 watts compared to throttle 750 watts. I can use PAS 1-5 and sustain any speed all day long without accelerating to the motor cut-off constantly. It feels like it just takes less muscle power on my part to sustain my desired speed as I increase my PAS levels from 0-5. I know I use more power on PAS 3 on inclines compared to PAS 3 on declines.
The Throttle is closer to smashing the gas pedal in a car for max acceleration. It is very difficult and almost next to impossible to sustain a certain wattage level other than the 750 max level when using the throttle only if you are riding for miles. You will be using the max 750 watts on inclines and declines with the throttle; with, the exception of more heat build-up on inclines. Running the Radcity at 40 km/h with the throttle all the time is like driving the family car with the foot on floor at +120 mph all the time. The Radcity and family car can do it; but, for how long?
That is why I was thinking a Class III ebike that is designed for 28 mph out the box might be a better choice long-term.
2016 Radrover power levels per PAS (haven't looked to see if the Radcity are set the same):
PAS 0: 0 watts
PAS 1: 75 watts
PAS 2: 175 watts
PAS 3: 375 watts
PAS 4: 550 watts
PAS 5: 750 watts
You can pedal to any speed you like until 32 km/h and then let the throttle take over to reach 40 km/h.
The motor cut-off speed will be exactly the same for PAS 1-5 and throttle once you change it in the LCD screen. The Radcity motor will provide power while pedaling in PAS 1-5 until you reach 40 km/h if you are not using the throttle. The 7 speed gearing for the 18 Radcity is really set to only 32 km/h or 20 mph max speed (maybe 21-22 mph; but, you will be pedaling like crazy person). Once you want to go faster than 20 mph (if pedaling), you can only use the throttle from 21-25 mph.
The Rad bikes controllers feels like it works differently for PAS 5 750 watts compared to throttle 750 watts. I can use PAS 1-5 and sustain any speed all day long without accelerating to the motor cut-off constantly. It feels like it just takes less muscle power on my part to sustain my desired speed as I increase my PAS levels from 0-5. I know I use more power on PAS 3 on inclines compared to PAS 3 on declines.
The Throttle is closer to smashing the gas pedal in a car for max acceleration. It is very difficult and almost next to impossible to sustain a certain wattage level other than the 750 max level when using the throttle only if you are riding for miles. You will be using the max 750 watts on inclines and declines with the throttle; with, the exception of more heat build-up on inclines. Running the Radcity at 40 km/h with the throttle all the time is like driving the family car with the foot on floor at +120 mph all the time. The Radcity and family car can do it; but, for how long?
That is why I was thinking a Class III ebike that is designed for 28 mph out the box might be a better choice long-term.
May I ask what happened to those controllers you had to replace?? And what's the temperature like in your neck of the woods when you go riding for those 6000 miles (just wondering if too much heat or cold or wet had anything to do with it). Thanks.
mrgold35
Well-Known Member
I live in New Mexico and work commute and ride all year. We get less than 10 inches a rain per year and I don't ride if raining, snowing, or icy out (wet or icy about 20-25 times a year). Temps range to 90-105 degrees in the summer and 20s/30s in winter with the coldest days in low/mid teens. I have on occasions was hit with rain and hail storms on my ride home. The rovers performed perfectly and had zero issue during or after the rains.
My 2016 Radrovers had the original programming with the motor cut-off per mph speed (PAS 1: 4 mph, PAS 2: 8 mph, ..Pas 5: 20 mph). I had 30 maintain error on one rover. The other rover had the issue of the LCD would go blank and shut off the power randomly during a ride. Both controllers were replaced under warranty.
Rad updated the controller in 2017 to the watts per PAS level. I've had zero issues with the new controllers on both Radrovers since install. I probably only put less than 600 miles on both ebikes with the old programming before replacing the controllers. I had a chance to ride both of my rovers with one old and new programming. New new programming is waaaay better. I had to use PAS 5/750w to reach 20 mph with the old programming. I can now reach 20 mph in PAS 3/375w with the new programming. I never ever have to use PAS 5 with the new programming.
I do get plenty of use with the throttle when riding maintaining my speed up short inclines, faster acceleration to reach cruising speed, getting across intersections in a hurry, if I need to push my ebike up inclines or over obstacles, or maintaining my speed if I can't pedal when single track riding. I even use the throttle to help pushed my radrover up a flight of stairs at work when the elevator was out (keep my radrover in a room near my 2nd floor office). I also just use my throttle only twice to get home +4 miles. Once when I lost a pedal crank bolt at 5:30 am and the crank fell off and I couldn't pedal back home. The second time was when I wrecked on my rover and snapped 3 bolts on the handle bars stem and hurt my shoulder. Too hard to pedal, steer, being in pain, and hold the floppy handlebars at the same time. The throttle got me the 4 miles home because the next option was to walk the bike home.
My 2016 Radrovers had the original programming with the motor cut-off per mph speed (PAS 1: 4 mph, PAS 2: 8 mph, ..Pas 5: 20 mph). I had 30 maintain error on one rover. The other rover had the issue of the LCD would go blank and shut off the power randomly during a ride. Both controllers were replaced under warranty.
Rad updated the controller in 2017 to the watts per PAS level. I've had zero issues with the new controllers on both Radrovers since install. I probably only put less than 600 miles on both ebikes with the old programming before replacing the controllers. I had a chance to ride both of my rovers with one old and new programming. New new programming is waaaay better. I had to use PAS 5/750w to reach 20 mph with the old programming. I can now reach 20 mph in PAS 3/375w with the new programming. I never ever have to use PAS 5 with the new programming.
I do get plenty of use with the throttle when riding maintaining my speed up short inclines, faster acceleration to reach cruising speed, getting across intersections in a hurry, if I need to push my ebike up inclines or over obstacles, or maintaining my speed if I can't pedal when single track riding. I even use the throttle to help pushed my radrover up a flight of stairs at work when the elevator was out (keep my radrover in a room near my 2nd floor office). I also just use my throttle only twice to get home +4 miles. Once when I lost a pedal crank bolt at 5:30 am and the crank fell off and I couldn't pedal back home. The second time was when I wrecked on my rover and snapped 3 bolts on the handle bars stem and hurt my shoulder. Too hard to pedal, steer, being in pain, and hold the floppy handlebars at the same time. The throttle got me the 4 miles home because the next option was to walk the bike home.
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AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
Thank you MrGold. I've been waiting for somebody to post this info with Rad's factory programming. I wanted to compare it to how I'm currently set up with my City's 1500w DD conversion. I am also curious how it compares to your City.
"2016 Radrover power levels per PAS (haven't looked to see if the Radcity are set the same):
PAS 0: 0 watts
PAS 1: 75 watts
PAS 2: 175 watts
PAS 3: 375 watts
PAS 4: 550 watts
PAS 5: 750 watts "
Though I suspected this might be the case, this confirms my suspicions. These are very similar to the readings I get when riding mine (usually in PAS 1, 2, and 3). Noteworthy are a couple of things. The kit's LCD3 display and 35 amp KT series controller allow the user to set max available system wattage through a button based user menu/interface (similar to Rad's, but much more configurable). These have been set (by me) to limit max wattage available to 1100 watts, to protect the stock Rad battery from what the 1500w motor is really capable of pulling (tested as high as 1600w). Though PAS levels (also user configurable) are only pulling close to 800 watts max (PAS 5), the throttle is able to pull right at 1100 watts/max available. That's 300 watts of extra punch available using the throttle to get the bike moving, get across the street quickly and hill topping power that's not available even in PAS 5. In use, for my purposes, couldn't be any happier with the power available, even when capped at 1100w.
For those that want to spend some time running at what the 1500w motor is capable of, you're going to need a battery with much heavier wiring. The Rad battery is just using 14awg. It's quality wire, but it's not going to handle that kind of power for very long.
"2016 Radrover power levels per PAS (haven't looked to see if the Radcity are set the same):
PAS 0: 0 watts
PAS 1: 75 watts
PAS 2: 175 watts
PAS 3: 375 watts
PAS 4: 550 watts
PAS 5: 750 watts "
Though I suspected this might be the case, this confirms my suspicions. These are very similar to the readings I get when riding mine (usually in PAS 1, 2, and 3). Noteworthy are a couple of things. The kit's LCD3 display and 35 amp KT series controller allow the user to set max available system wattage through a button based user menu/interface (similar to Rad's, but much more configurable). These have been set (by me) to limit max wattage available to 1100 watts, to protect the stock Rad battery from what the 1500w motor is really capable of pulling (tested as high as 1600w). Though PAS levels (also user configurable) are only pulling close to 800 watts max (PAS 5), the throttle is able to pull right at 1100 watts/max available. That's 300 watts of extra punch available using the throttle to get the bike moving, get across the street quickly and hill topping power that's not available even in PAS 5. In use, for my purposes, couldn't be any happier with the power available, even when capped at 1100w.
For those that want to spend some time running at what the 1500w motor is capable of, you're going to need a battery with much heavier wiring. The Rad battery is just using 14awg. It's quality wire, but it's not going to handle that kind of power for very long.
fnkyhd
Member
[QUOTE
- stopping power: standard rad brakes are fine for 20 mph runs. I wouldn't feel comfortable trying to stop in an emergency at +25 mph with these brakes. I upgraded my Radrover to TRP Spykes and that reduced my emergency stopping distances and zero noise when braking when I work commute.[/QUOTE]
Mr Gold, do you have a link for those brake parts? Thanks!
- stopping power: standard rad brakes are fine for 20 mph runs. I wouldn't feel comfortable trying to stop in an emergency at +25 mph with these brakes. I upgraded my Radrover to TRP Spykes and that reduced my emergency stopping distances and zero noise when braking when I work commute.[/QUOTE]
Mr Gold, do you have a link for those brake parts? Thanks!
mrgold35
Well-Known Member
Mr Gold, do you have a link for those brake parts? Thanks![/QUOTE]
I purchased the brakes off eBay for the Calipers only (no rotor). Went down to Performance Bike Shop for the Jagwire MTB brake cables (one size only, have to cut to length). Amazon for the replacement ferrules that you crimp on the end of the brake cables.
TRP Sypyke, Ebay, $55 for one caliper: https://www.ebay.com/itm/TRP-Spyke-...h=item467b44e094:g:hbkAAOSwKPxa30dO:rk:7:pf:0
My Radrover (and I imagine the Radcity) already has the adaptors to covert from 160mm to 180 mm rotors. Without the adaptors, the TRP Sypke brakes will fit on a 160mm rotor out the box.
larry-new
Active Member
Stopping at speed involves straight arms pushing the body rearward, crouching down, both of which minimize the chances of flipping over the bars, grabbing a handful of the rear brake and a half handful of the front, increasing pressure on the front...all of which happens in a second or so.
In other words, technique, which must be practiced. I completely trust my stock brakes, as I've tested them, and check adjustment to fingertip immediate actuation before every ride.
In other words, technique, which must be practiced. I completely trust my stock brakes, as I've tested them, and check adjustment to fingertip immediate actuation before every ride.
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