Lectric XP

My pedals were coming loose every few miles, put blue loctite on, several miles later no problem, still tight.

How is that possible? Did you confirm that the threading is allowing the pedals to turn in the direction of tightening them? I find this strange, and I have been riding bikes for almost 40 years now.
 
I suspect they left changeable only the settings described in the manual. This is unfortunate, but understandable.

I'm curious about what they have changed about pedals. I kind of hope mine come loose. Then I can remove them, inspect threads, and reinstall using blue lock-tight. I would like to confirm they are not cross threaded from factory. If they are loose then I know they were not likely cross threaded. If they are already tight, and perhaps thread locked in place, I will be reluctant to break them loose (but probably will).


Got my bike Friday. First thing I did after unboxing was take the pedals off to apply loctite. It appeared to me there was already some form of thread locker on the threads. Had to use the wrench the entire way to get the pedals out. Seems like Lectric is working with the factory to address problems as they arise. Maybe someone else can confirm if the bikes from this latest batch has thread locker from the factory?
 
Locked settings?! BS. Call me a libertarian, but I hate having limits placed on me by others! I hope we get a clarification on these locked settings.
 
Just to post up some information regarding the pedals, obviously if they are cross-threaded for some reason, that is sketchy and you should request a replacement crank arm and pedal if it came to you like that. None of that was your fault, then Lectric should make it good. If there is no cross threading done and they are just loose, then TIGHTEN THEM ONLY, there should be NO use for Loctite in this situation. Based on the threaded direction of the pedals (one normal thread, the other reverse) pedals are designed so they are always turning in the TIGHTENING direction when pedaling, hence they should never come loose once you have them snug, the pedaling action should only tighten them more.
My pedals came loose, my cousin I was riding with, his came loose every few miles, many more people just on this site alone have had their pedals come loose, I understand what your saying and it makes perfect sense, but then how do you explain this problem we are all having then?
 
My pedals came loose, my cousin I was riding with, his came loose every few miles, many more people just on this site alone have had their pedals come loose, I understand what your saying and it makes perfect sense, but then how do you explain this problem we are all having then?

I guess I can't! Loc-tite will surely solve that problem though. May make replacing the pedals if you ever need to more difficult, but you should still be able to break the threads with a good wrench.
 
Oh - one more area for people to check that's pretty loose - In preparation for measuring for a new set of handlebars, I had to remove the computer. Whoah those hex bolts were loose, basically not even finger tight. Make sure you tighten those, or they will work themselves out over time and you might lose them, but the computer would just move a little or fall down if you lost the screws as it would still be clamped onto the bar via the plastic clamp pressure.
 
Just to post up some information regarding the pedals, obviously if they are cross-threaded for some reason, that is sketchy and you should request a replacement crank arm and pedal if it came to you like that. None of that was your fault, then Lectric should make it good. If there is no cross threading done and they are just loose, then TIGHTEN THEM ONLY, there should be NO use for Loctite in this situation. Based on the threaded direction of the pedals (one normal thread, the other reverse) pedals are designed so they are always turning in the TIGHTENING direction when pedaling, hence they should never come loose once you have them snug, the pedaling action should only tighten them more.
I agree. On a normal bike there should be no need for thread locking. Normal pedaling will keep the pedals tight. But on a rear hub ebike a lot of the torque comes from the opposite direction. The wheel is doing the work, not the pedal crank. The freewheel should freewheel so none of this torque should reach the pedals. But apparently it does. I can't think of any other reason previously tight pedals would come loose.
 
Got my bike Friday. First thing I did after unboxing was take the pedals off to apply loctite. It appeared to me there was already some form of thread locker on the threads. Had to use the wrench the entire way to get the pedals out. Seems like Lectric is working with the factory to address problems as they arise. Maybe someone else can confirm if the bikes from this latest batch has thread locker from the factory?
Did the threads in the crank look OK?
 
Oh - one more area for people to check that's pretty loose - In preparation for measuring for a new set of handlebars, I had to remove the computer. Whoah those hex bolts were loose, basically not even finger tight. Make sure you tighten those, or they will work themselves out over time and you might lose them, but the computer would just move a little or fall down if you lost the screws as it would still be clamped onto the bar via the plastic clamp pressure.
Kind of interested in possible new handle bars also, you will have to let us know what you come up with. And with the blue loctite on the pedals, I use it all the time on my pocket knives, no problem loosening them up, just by all means do not use the red loctite, or as you say, it will be a pain in the butt to get off.
 
I agree. On a normal bike there should be no need for thread locking. Normal pedaling will keep the pedals tight. But on a rear hub ebike a lot of the torque comes from the opposite direction. The wheel is doing the work, not the pedal crank. The freewheel should freewheel so none of this torque should reach the pedals. But apparently it does. I can't think of any other reason previously tight pedals would come loose.
Did you check if they threaded them in right direction?
Right in left direction and left in right direction.
Should not matter motor or not unless you cranking backward
 
Did you check if they threaded them in right direction?
Right in left direction and left in right direction.
Should not matter motor or not unless you cranking backward
I do not have the bike yet. Hopefully early next week. I plan to remove the battery and connect it to charger. Making sure the screws on battery are tight. While I wait for battery to charge I'll have time to go over rest of bike. Check for loose screws. Make sure it is adjusted properly. Will probably take it for a ride with no battery just to make sure it functions OK that way. In my house, if I take something apart all machined threads, exposed to weather, get treated with either lock-tight or anti-seize before I reassemble. Especially if dissimilar materials are involved (in this case steel and aluminum).
 
For those asking, here are the handlebars I ordered. They can be had for $10 cheaper on some bike sites, but you make up for that price difference and more in shipping. Your bars should be a few inches outside of your shoulder distance for a comfortable fit, I have a very wide frame and in about 5 miles my left hand started going numb from a combination of hands being too close together on the bars and the somewhat hard grips. Hopefully will alleviate both tonight!

Went for a quick jaunt during lunch today, man that was quick! PAS 4-5 most of the time, sometimes in 3 for slower parts, only used twist throttle for about 10 seconds once. 5.1 miles, 280lbs, not too many hills, maybe 2 gradual ones, otherwise all flat, not a tick off my battery charge indicator, although it did dip down a few times during my ride when it was steady pushing out power, but then it comes back up to the top.
 

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I sent a message to Lectric support today about the lockout question here on the forum. Here is the response.

Stuart,
This change was made to address safety, insurance, service, parts, warranty, etc.. concerns. The owners manual indicates which settings may be changed and which ones should not be... and we have had customers make changes to their bikes that could impact their safety and the integrity of the bike.

It's remains an incredible bike! Thanks for checking in.
Brent
 
I have seen a few different folding e-bikes that look so much like the Lectric XP. Are all of these companies including Lectric buying the same bike from a Chinese seller and putting their own coat of paint on them? Each company has a black and maybe a white model that look identical to Lectric XP but with their logo on the battery compartment.
Maybe i'm just imagining it.
 
Do we have a before and after list of the locked settings? I would like to know exactly which settings have been locked out and which are still open.

Do we have a before and after controller part numbers? This would be good for us that want to tinker around with the electronics.
 
I have seen a few different folding e-bikes that look so much like the Lectric XP. Are all of these companies including Lectric buying the same bike from a Chinese seller and putting their own coat of paint on them? Each company has a black and maybe a white model that look identical to Lectric XP but with their logo on the battery compartment.
Maybe i'm just imagining it.
The way it looks there are a few companies in China that make the frames, then companies will buy those, paint them the way they want and add all the components.
 
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