Latest Modifications; Hello from Northern Virginia

Nova-I have to say I never heard of a 'bike handlebar extension' and I am in dire need of this due to a very crowded cockpit. I also see there are many different designs as well. Nice add on feature indeed. Thanks for sharing.

What I really need is a different handlebar. I knew when I bought the bike that I would not like mtb handlebars. For me it is just not comfortable. I might install something like a Jones Loop, or a butterfly bar. That would not only offer more hand positions, but more real estate for accessories. Of course what I am most comfortable with is drop bars, but that would mean changing to very expensive hydraulic STI levers, and swapping out other drivetrains components as well.
 
I made it to the end of the W&OD in Purcellville, VA. I started from the Vienna Community Center; one way was just over 32 miles. I used Eco+ the entire way up, using 30% of the charge, and used all four levels on the way back. I began with a full battery (400Wh); I finished with 1% remaining. My backside is still not tough enough; even with bib shorts and a good amount of "butt butter," I can feel a saddle sore developing...time to take a day off from riding!
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"THIS HOLE...THIS QUARRY HOLE IS MINE!"
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Very nice! Looks lovely out there, and brings back memories of living just beyond P'ville in Bluemont...
 
Nice pics. I remember seeing that quarry in Ashburn? Is it possible to ride over there? A suspension will really help your back. I have a Suntour NCX post on my road bike and hardtail.
 
There is a overlook area of the quarry right off the trail, maybe three miles beyond Ashburn. I've considered getting a suspension seatpost, but I think it is more the saddle itself that does not agree with me. Which is kinda too bad, 'cause it is a good looking saddle. On the other hand, the Ergon ST Core prime saddle looks ugly, but the concept is interesting...I might give it a go. I did change out the stock XLC locking grips for Ergon GP1's; someone donated a set to my co-op, so I donated a little money and put them on my bike. It's only a stop-gap measure though; I still want to change out the handlebars. I saw another bar similar to the Jones Loop; the Origin8 Strongbow. It is a lot cheaper than the Jones, and I can order it directly from the distributor. ;)
 
I installed a "new" saddle on the bike. Another piece of equipment that was donated to my co-op, a Topeak Allay. Apparently it has not been made for a number of years. It is a somewhat strange looking saddle: it has an inflatable bladder (the tan area in the middle) to support the perineum, with a strip of fabric stretched over the top. There is a valve underneath the shell to inflate/deflate the bladder. I have not messed with the amount of air in the bladder; I have just been riding it as-is, and it is surprisingly comfortable...certainly better than the stock saddle.
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A couple of days ago I was test riding a customer's road bike that I had just tuned up. Her bike fit me just about perfectly...and it reinforced to me that I am much more comfortable with drop bars. Unfortunately, that would be an expensive undertaking right now, so in the meantime, I installed these new handlebars marketed by Origin8. They are called the Strongbow, and are similar to the Jones H-Bar Loop, but without the radical sweep or the much higher price tag. I had trouble finding the Strongbow; the distributor has been out of stock and they cannot tell me when they will be back. I even found out who manufacturers the bar: Satori in Taiwan (which calls them the Falcon Aero), but they don't have it in stock either. Fortunately one showed up on Amazon (sold by Niagara Cycle). I haven't had a chance to try the bars yet, but I'm hoping the extra hand positions and the ability to get more aero on the bike will give me more of the comfort I am looking for. The only thing I am not happy about is that the bars are even wider at 760mm. I would cut them down but the button pad takes up too much space and if I cut the bars I would have less room for my hands in the mid section. The shifters take up room too; while I like the optical gear display, the i-spec version XT shifters would also free up more space on the bars.
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I think if you want aero and comfort, you should probably be looking at TT bars. They allow you to rest your arms and stay aero at the same time. If you want to do very long rides with lots of positions, then you may want to look at butterfly bars.
 
I think if you want aero and comfort, you should probably be looking at TT bars.

TT bars, mounted on the stock bar? I doubt that would work; it would have to be mounted on a flat bar. Also, it is just...wrong. LOL. TT bars are for TT and Triathlon bikes, for racing. Anyway, what I mean by more aero is not a full tuck, but with my hands and arms closer together similar to riding on the tops of a drop bar, or riding on the hoods. All the current mountain bike bars are really wide; my bike came with 740mm bars...300mm+ wider than a drop bar.

If you want to do very long rides with lots of positions, then you may want to look at butterfly bars.

See post #21.
 
I moved the button pad from the left shifter/grip area up to the front of the bar, next to the light. So now I have room for my hands inboard of the shifters, giving me four different hand positions in total. If feels great! Especially since I received and installed a PearTune MSO module a few days ago. The verdict on the PearTune MSO? It works! It was an easy install, but the motor on my bike will not swing down after removing two of the motor mounting bolts, which is what the instructions and installations videos I have seen call for...I have to remove all three bolts. Other than that, it is relatively straightforward, although plugging it in is ever-so-slightly confusing.

The PearTune MSO activates with a short press of the walk mode button (which is normally disabled on my bike; you can also choose a version which is activated by the light button). The assist level indicator on the display flashes to let you know it is active. I don't know what the upper speed limit is; I personally run out of steam at 32 mph. Other than that, I can ride cruise at 22 mph, and 26-27 mph at a harder pace.
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I added a different bell to the bike, which I mounted onto the headset spacers. The stock one was starting to crap out; the striker is made with a plastic spring. The new one is cheap too; it was just something donated to the co-op.

My odometer rolled past 1000 miles this past Saturday. Not bad considering I am just riding for pleasure/fitness. On the fitness front, I have somehow managed to lose 30 lbs. I was curious to know if I had gained weight from eating all the bad food I have been partaking of (I was plant-based for awhile, but lately I have been eating 75% off luncheon meat and hot dogs LOL). So I was a bit shocked when I stepped on the scale over at my sister's house. I guess the all fast laps around Hains Point seeing how fast I can go with the PearTune engaged has helped?
 
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On the fitness front, I have somehow managed to lose 30 lbs. I guess the all fast laps around Hain's Point seeing how fast I can go with the PearTune engaged has helped?
Congratulations!
Wonder if you've flown past me at Hains Point -- I've added that lap to my commute home about 5 times now, for extra miles.
 
I would recognize your bike. I've only seen the spandex crowd. Lunchtime there is a big group that goes around the Point. I rode with them for a lap today, before heading off to find the Russian food truck. On the outward leg I wondering why 23 mph felt more difficult than usual. Then I looked down to realize I had forgotten to engage the PearTune. :eek:
 
Another bell; the one I had mounted on the headset spacers did not work (maybe I should just get the $50 Spurcycle bell LOL). But the color goes with the bike...and it was free. :D I also moved both the button pad and bells positions, which works out great!
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How do you like the bell set far from the primary grips/brakes? My Spurcycle bell was originally installed just right of the handlebar mount; I hated having to take my hand off the grip to ring the bell. Now I have it positioned within thumb's reach while my hand is on the grip.
Also, I assume the bell is not making contact with the bike light's housing? (ie, so the bell can vibrate fully?) It appears to touch, in the photo.
 
The bell is within thumb reach because I'm finding myself riding with my hands either in the Y section of the bars or out on the loop most of the time, so I have to move my hands to reach the brakes and shifters. If I am on the path where it is crowded, I'll have my right hand near the bell, and my left on the grip and front brake.
 
Another ride to Purcellville today. I rode the first half (32 miles) with the power completely off the majority of the time; my 400Wh battery had 91% remaining. After the hard work I treated myself to standard and high on the way back; I was down to 8% at the end. On the return trip some deer stood in the middle of the path on two different occasions; I tried to get my phone out the second time but as I raised my phone it scurried off. Also on the trip back I came upon a man who crashed...he must have lost concentration, because the path where he went off is perfectly straight. I had to help him out of a ditch. I checked out his bike as well; I did a field repair on his bent derailleur hanger.

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Last month I discovered cracks in the rear wheel rim, which Haibike USA warrantied right away. I still have not actually used the replacement wheels they sent; I've just been riding on the old wheels. I did take a bit of tension off the spokes, and the cracks have not gotten any worse. But today I build new wheels, because I have upgraditis. :D I selected Shimano XT hubs, DT Swiss Alpine III triple butted 13/15/14G spokes, DT Swiss Pro Head Pro Lock nipples, and DT Swiss R 500 rims. I also switched to Shimano XTR Ice Tech Freeza rotors, replaced the front 2-piston XT caliper with the newer 4-piston caliper, and swapped out the rear G02A pads for the J02A pads with radiator fins. Eventually I will switch over to tubeless, but for now I will continue with the stock Schwalbe Energizer Plus tires. Do I need any of these upgrades? No, but it is fun to try different stuff, and it does help me to familiarize myself with newer components, technologies, and service procedures.
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I moved the button pad from the left shifter/grip area up to the front of the bar, next to the light. So now I have room for my hands inboard of the shifters, giving me four different hand positions in total. If feels great! Especially since I received and installed a PearTune MSO module a few days ago. The verdict on the PearTune MSO? It works! It was an easy install, but the motor on my bike will not swing down after removing two of the motor mounting bolts, which is what the instructions and installations videos I have seen call for...I have to remove all three bolts. Other than that, it is relatively straightforward, although plugging it in is ever-so-slightly confusing.

The PearTune MSO activates with a short press of the walk mode button (which is normally disabled on my bike; you can also choose a version which is activated by the light button). The assist level indicator on the display flashes to let you know it is active. I don't know what the upper speed limit is; I personally run out of steam at 32 mph. Other than that, I can ride cruise at 22 mph, and 26-27 mph at a harder pace.
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I have one ebike that can go more than 30 mph and the other at 26 mph. However, I don't really see a difference on normal riding since I ride at about 21-22 mph on the upper limit of my cruising speed (good compromise between speed and battery consumption). I only explore the top speed if it is a slight downhill.
 
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