Larger chainring
- Thread starter Fatire
- Start date
I haven't done that yet, but I'm looking to do so soon if possible. I've now got 200+ miles on my new XP and find that at higher speeds I'm pedaling way too fast in 7th gear. I'd gladly give up low-end torque (I rarely use gears 1 & 2 anyway) for a slower pedal rotation speed at 25 mph and above. I thought I'd ask Ryan at Lectric and see if they offer one, and came across your post while searching for anyone else who has done this.
Then, if I find a suitable replacement, I've got to figure out how to actually make the swap...!
Bud
Then, if I find a suitable replacement, I've got to figure out how to actually make the swap...!
Bud
Nova Haibike
Well-Known Member
You would get more bang for your buck so-to-speak, by replacing the 14-28T freewheel with the DNP 11-28T Freewheel.
At 28 mph, your cadence would drop from approximately 106 rpm to 83 rpm. You would need a 66T chainring to accomplish the same thing; good luck with finding a 66T chainring for less than the cost of an arm and a leg.
At 28 mph, your cadence would drop from approximately 106 rpm to 83 rpm. You would need a 66T chainring to accomplish the same thing; good luck with finding a 66T chainring for less than the cost of an arm and a leg.
i've madly modded my bike. Look for my Lectric XP Tricked out post coming soon. Some people scoffed at me for my drivetrain upgrades and some actually seemed interested and helped me. I did both!
Litepro 56t 170mm cranks + Drift Maniac 11-34t and all I had to do was add 8 links to my chain... in fact it was a new KMC chain 116+8=124 link chain.
Litepro 56t 170mm cranks + Drift Maniac 11-34t and all I had to do was add 8 links to my chain... in fact it was a new KMC chain 116+8=124 link chain.
Yeah I've already replaced the cassette with a 11-34. Much of the time during my commute I'm riding in 7 (11t), and on some of downhills I'd like just a little bit more top end. Have you had issues dropping the chain off the litepro? It does not have an inner chain guide right?
With all the good advice against changing the chainring, I went with the DNP 11-28 freewheel option and am very happy with it. My top end on flat ground is now about 26-28mph, and I can hit over 30 on downslopes (although it feels like the motor is "braking" as soon as the controller senses that speed - but probably just disconnecting power from the motor, which feels like the brakes are being applied...)
Pedal cadence is now more sedate in 7th gear, and I've been taking some 20-22 mile rides in the evenings after dinner (although with the days getting shorter, that'll probably have to cease until spring). Over 700 miles on the XP now...
Pedal cadence is now more sedate in 7th gear, and I've been taking some 20-22 mile rides in the evenings after dinner (although with the days getting shorter, that'll probably have to cease until spring). Over 700 miles on the XP now...
Rogue XP
Member
That's not the answer but I have given up spending more money on the bike, I will probably sell it and buy up to a more aggressive bike.
sed6
Active Member
Well it was the answer to his dilemma. The answer to yours sounds like buy a different bike. I feel you.
Rogue XP
Member
Yea I will just stop spending more money on this one and use it as is.
sed6
Active Member
PLEASE, convince me to do the same
If you're simply looking for more speed, changing the gearing is only part of the problem. The XP's controller has a programmed-in speed limit which can be lowered but not increased (assuming you have already adjusted the top speed setting to its highest). You can verify this on downhills runs - in PAS 5 pedal as fast as you can/want, and once you hit that limit, you'll notice what feels like the brakes being applied (it's just the motor shutting off). So regardless of the bike's gearing, above that set speed you're on your own!
Until someone comes up with an after-market controller that is programmed/programmable for a higher top end, your maximum speed is going to be a function of the bike's gearing PLUS your leg muscle strength...because above the bike's "limit", you might as well be pedaling a conventional bike - the electric isn't going to help.
Until someone comes up with an after-market controller that is programmed/programmable for a higher top end, your maximum speed is going to be a function of the bike's gearing PLUS your leg muscle strength...because above the bike's "limit", you might as well be pedaling a conventional bike - the electric isn't going to help.
Similar threads
