KT LCD1

[Andy1865]

Morning all have just recently had a 250/500watt Cyclotricity kit with a KT LCD 1 put on my Freego Hawk ive noticed a delay in motor starting up when in P.A.S mode theres like a 2 second delay is this normal or is there something ive to change in the P settings, also MPH still slowing down even though wheel has stopped revolving is this normal aswell. Thank you.

 

[harryS]

Is it cold where you are right now? Cold as in 37F like it was here today. The throttle response for my LCD3 equipped bike with KT controller was delayed so much, I thought it was broken. However, my PAS was working.

I do have an LCD1 equipped bike, but it's in storage. There's only a few P parameters and none of them affect PAS response.

As far as speedometer, does your motor/controller use an internal sensor in the motor or are you using an external sensor? If the speed fades away to zero when you are not using the motor, you probably need to set up the sensor either in motor or externally,







.

 

[Andy1865]

When you say external do you mean the disc with the magnetic discs on the crank shaft? Otherwise im not to savvie on the electrics of an ebike

 

[Andy1865]

53F(12C)here in the U.K today.

 

[harryS]

The speed sensor is either inside the motor and not visible, or it's a magnet on one of the wheel spokes with a sensor bracketed to your frame,

On my bike with the LCD1, it's external and I used to have problems with a loose speed sensor magnet. It would cause the speed to vanish and put up an error code, but I could keep riding.

The disk around the crank pedals is your pedal sensor. Is it loose.? I've heard of cases where it was so loose it would slip when pedaling started. Most of them are quite tight though, unless maybe you have two piece magnet disk that snaps around the crank.

Snow here tomorrow.






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[Andy1865]

When i had new kit fitted the old lcd was replaced with a KT LCD 1 unit and i was told it only had a back light but when i read instructions its a back light and front light also. My Freego had DC 36v light and the fitter cut the black and white wires. Is it possible to rewire the light to the new lcd unit like when i turn on the backlight the headlight works. Thanks.

 

[harryS]

On my KT controllers that support lights, the control is in the LCD buttons, but the wires/connector come out of the controller. You would have to get the wiring diagram for your KT36ZMSRM to know more.

 

[Andy1865]

On my KT controllers that support lights, the control is in the LCD buttons, but the wires/connector come out of the controller. You would have to get the wiring diagram for your KT36ZMSRM to know more.

Harry, there are two thick black wires, a thin black wire and a thin red wire. The KT LCD1 has a background light which doe work and its supposed to switch front light on also. The KT LCD1 is a sealed unit. Tried to see if theres a wiring diagram on the internet but no joy unless you could find a link to it. My front light has a thin black wire and a thin white wire coming out of it. Orginally was thinking id splice it into the KT LCD1 but that idea is a no go. The other two wires are attached to the battery and go into the controller.

 

[Andy1865]

On my KT controllers that support lights, the control is in the LCD buttons, but the wires/connector come out of the controller. You would have to get the wiring diagram for your KT36ZMSRM to know more.

Would it help if i sent you a photo of the controller?

 

[harryS]

First you need to find an unused pair of wires coming out of your controller. That's not enough. KT controllers use two wire pairs for other purposes beside lights. What you find also may be a speed limiter, or a regenerative brakes option. You have to analyze them.

You will need to acquire a voltmeter and learn how it's used. Then activate the back light on the LCD1. When that comes on, measure your wire candidates to see if they switch from no power to power as you toggle the backlight. Then you have to see the voltage, whether it's +5, +12, or +36V.

I removed those lighting wires off on my controllers, so I don't know the typical voltage coming out. As you can see, lots of things need to be right to be able to use the lights. Even if you get the proper voltage, probably not a good idea to run the lights directly. I would advise against trying to run lights off the controller. Too easy to blow it up.

 

[Andy1865]

First you need to find an unused pair of wires coming out of your controller. That's not enough. KT controllers use two wire pairs for other purposes beside lights. What you find also may be a speed limiter, or a regenerative brakes option. You have to analyze them.

You will need to acquire a voltmeter and learn how it's used. Then activate the back light on the LCD1. When that comes on, measure your wire candidates to see if they switch from no power to power as you toggle the backlight. Then you have to see the voltage, whether it's +5, +12, or +36V.

I removed those lighting wires off on my controllers, so I don't know the typical voltage coming out. As you can see, lots of things need to be right to be able to use the lights. Even if you get the proper voltage, probably not a good idea to run the lights directly. I would advise against trying to run lights off the controller. Too easy to blow it up.

After taking all your advice to mind im going to leave it alone. Im not that advanced when it come to electrics, but thanks for your input Harry.