Known Issues & Problems with Surface 604 Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

My Colt is making noises after only riding it 35 miles. One noise is on every pedal crank in the down direction on the right. I initially suspected the chain guard, but it doesn't look very close to the chain. The other is a more persistent noise. I suspect the fenders are rubbing the tires. I'm going to remove all three things to see if it quiets down. But today there is a noise coming from the drive hub (motor). It's an irritating low-volume screeching noise that's there if the motor is running and absent when it's not. It's clearly the motor or at least the drive hub. I have notified Gordon and Surface 604 and will report where that leads. There is no dealer anywhere near me.

This bike's weight limit is 285 lbs. I am around 240 (6'5") and my rack pack is probably 12 lbs. I'm a pretty large person. I am now wondering if this bike is really sturdy enough for me and my moderate commute.
 
My Colt is making noises after only riding it 35 miles. One noise is on every pedal crank in the down direction on the right. I initially suspected the chain guard, but it doesn't look very close to the chain. The other is a more persistent noise. I suspect the fenders are rubbing the tires. I'm going to remove all three things to see if it quiets down. But today there is a noise coming from the drive hub (motor). It's an irritating low-volume screeching noise that's there if the motor is running and absent when it's not. It's clearly the motor or at least the drive hub. I have notified Gordon and Surface 604 and will report where that leads. There is no dealer anywhere near me.

This bike's weight limit is 285 lbs. I am around 240 (6'5") and my rack pack is probably 12 lbs. I'm a pretty large person. I am now wondering if this bike is really sturdy enough for me and my moderate commute.
It sounds like you have the known defective freehub on the rear wheel. Had a bunch of them last year, and these guys shipped me 3 out of 4 defective ones again this year. Disappointed they didn't resolve the issues from last year, nor did they apparently care to inspect what they shipped this year. (inventory that was likely on the floor in China in 2018, but shipped this year, after they decided to not move production to Taiwan.) Good luck.
 
Hello, just joined today, to answer and reassure buyers on Colt 604.
I had one since april 2018. Had no problems assembling it (followed the online video), with just the front fender being difficult to adjust without rubbing the tire. Did 500 km on the bike so far. Extremely happy with it. Got 200 km on the first charge by pedaling a lot and using only level 1 assist on slopes. Now I use mostly level 2, still pedal a lot and get 120-150km on one charge. Am not an athlete, and weigh 190 lbs, and as my name says, am OLD.. so no worries about battery life.

A second great area is the brakes. I practiced ( and flat spotted a bit the rear tire in doing it,) and can stop from 20kph on a measured 7% downhill slope in 7 feet!! Great sense of safety for urban riders, and in my case on bike paths, there is always the stray dog, or ball, or child on his first bike that cause hairy moments, so great idea!

A third great area is the tires. I can fall off the paved path into gravel and come back on, still running parallel to it, even if there is a 2" curb, just with the grip on the side of the tire. Again great sense of safety. Also on any fast turns on asphalt where there is small winter-traction gravel left on it,( 2-4mm stones) the wide tires won't slip sideways as with normal 700c tires with 70 pounds in it. Even at 35-40 pounds the tires have excellent rolling resistance. ( I understand that the hysteresis loss is less on these than on the 700c tires.) Also did a 30 km ride on a total gravel path in a park , at a good clip, with big slopes, and never a wobble or a slip. So good choice, not too big, not too small.

Other likes: The rear brake light; the integrated solid rack; the step-through;
The saddle is not the greatest; comfortable for a young guy, but no tilt adjustment possible. Us older folks have sensitive tubing ending in that area, plus sensitive vertebrae, I think there should be a senior saddle option, one with visible springs like they have in Europe, much cheaper and lighter than any suspension system, they are only 30 $ or so ..

The chain only fell off once , ( between frame and plateau), when I did a gear change almost at a standstill in a steep slope. Would probably have come off on any bike. I pulled it back on with my fingers only, no problem.

The only puzzling thing that happened on two separate occasions is that after parking the bike in the sun for half an hour on a hot day, it lost all power and the display showed flashing empty battery whenever I tried to get anything more than level 1 assist from pedals: any throttle, or any attempt to get level 2 or higher would stop all power to the motor. Battery was still at half full. In both cases I would need to shut down the display with the button, and reboot up again; and this happened several times, whenever I tried to increase the demand on the bike. I limped home on 1st level and let it "rest", and next day it was working perfect. I deduce from this that either their current controller is too sensitive to heat, or that the battery has an internal thermal protection circuit that is a bit sensitive. OK, it was a slight-panic problem, but it is far better to have too-sensitive alarms than abusing the battery... So: park in the shade on hot days...

Finally: I doubt that running the battery down to zero and charging it everytime to 100% gives the best battery life ( highest number of recharge cycles); from my experience as a modeler with Lithium batteries, and from research I read, it seems that the sweet spot for optimal life is to recharge at 20% and to not more than 80%.. It makes sense; except that there may be a cell-balancing cycle that only is performed when the battery is near total charge, by electronics inside the battery.... This information I could not get from Mike, who was not aware of these details. So, if anyone knows more, or wants to know more on this, let me know and we will try to get to an answer, maybe from the factory with Mike help.. a new battery is expensive, and if we can make ours last longer we all win.
 
Hello, just joined today, to answer and reassure buyers on Colt 604.
I had one since april 2018. Had no problems assembling it (followed the online video), with just the front fender being difficult to adjust without rubbing the tire. Did 500 km on the bike so far. Extremely happy with it. Got 200 km on the first charge by pedaling a lot and using only level 1 assist on slopes. Now I use mostly level 2, still pedal a lot and get 120-150km on one charge. Am not an athlete, and weigh 190 lbs, and as my name says, am OLD.. so no worries about battery life.

A second great area is the brakes. I practiced ( and flat spotted a bit the rear tire in doing it,) and can stop from 20kph on a measured 7% downhill slope in 7 feet!! Great sense of safety for urban riders, and in my case on bike paths, there is always the stray dog, or ball, or child on his first bike that cause hairy moments, so great idea!

A third great area is the tires. I can fall off the paved path into gravel and come back on, still running parallel to it, even if there is a 2" curb, just with the grip on the side of the tire. Again great sense of safety. Also on any fast turns on asphalt where there is small winter-traction gravel left on it,( 2-4mm stones) the wide tires won't slip sideways as with normal 700c tires with 70 pounds in it. Even at 35-40 pounds the tires have excellent rolling resistance. ( I understand that the hysteresis loss is less on these than on the 700c tires.) Also did a 30 km ride on a total gravel path in a park , at a good clip, with big slopes, and never a wobble or a slip. So good choice, not too big, not too small.

Other likes: The rear brake light; the integrated solid rack; the step-through;
The saddle is not the greatest; comfortable for a young guy, but no tilt adjustment possible. Us older folks have sensitive tubing ending in that area, plus sensitive vertebrae, I think there should be a senior saddle option, one with visible springs like they have in Europe, much cheaper and lighter than any suspension system, they are only 30 $ or so ..

The chain only fell off once , ( between frame and plateau), when I did a gear change almost at a standstill in a steep slope. Would probably have come off on any bike. I pulled it back on with my fingers only, no problem.

The only puzzling thing that happened on two separate occasions is that after parking the bike in the sun for half an hour on a hot day, it lost all power and the display showed flashing empty battery whenever I tried to get anything more than level 1 assist from pedals: any throttle, or any attempt to get level 2 or higher would stop all power to the motor. Battery was still at half full. In both cases I would need to shut down the display with the button, and reboot up again; and this happened several times, whenever I tried to increase the demand on the bike. I limped home on 1st level and let it "rest", and next day it was working perfect. I deduce from this that either their current controller is too sensitive to heat, or that the battery has an internal thermal protection circuit that is a bit sensitive. OK, it was a slight-panic problem, but it is far better to have too-sensitive alarms than abusing the battery... So: park in the shade on hot days...

Finally: I doubt that running the battery down to zero and charging it everytime to 100% gives the best battery life ( highest number of recharge cycles); from my experience as a modeler with Lithium batteries, and from research I read, it seems that the sweet spot for optimal life is to recharge at 20% and to not more than 80%.. It makes sense; except that there may be a cell-balancing cycle that only is performed when the battery is near total charge, by electronics inside the battery.... This information I could not get from Mike, who was not aware of these details. So, if anyone knows more, or wants to know more on this, let me know and we will try to get to an answer, maybe from the factory with Mike help.. a new battery is expensive, and if we can make ours last longer we all win.
 
Have same issue with battery flashing empty with 30% showing before. But hot day not an issue. Really like bike till now, bought late March 2019. Quite concerned. Will recharge then try hill again. If problem persists will take back to Kelowna e-bike, which is a hassle because I live in Kamloops.
 
It sounds like you have the known defective freehub on the rear wheel. Had a bunch of them last year, and these guys shipped me 3 out of 4 defective ones again this year. Disappointed they didn't resolve the issues from last year, nor did they apparently care to inspect what they shipped this year. (inventory that was likely on the floor in China in 2018, but shipped this year, after they decided to not move production to Taiwan.) Good luck.

Contacted Gordon at Surface 604 and without too much resistance he shipped me a new freehub (free) and said to have it installed locally, provide them the receipt, and they will reimburse me. I just hope he doesn't mean put a credit on my "account" because I already paid for my wife's Rook (and my card has been charged as I await that August batch) and I have no plans to spend any more money with them anytime soon. After 5 days (3 business days) the part still hasn't been picked up from their facility (per the UPS tracking number). Guess I'll just keep on riding it while it screams at me in pain. ;)
 
I am having the same problems as "Rick badgolfer" above. I have a 2018 Rook, 15 months old, with 400 miles on it. Last week, while riding up a slight incline and in pedal assist level 3, and with the battery at 7/10, I got the flashing empty battery. When I got to a flat, quiet street. I shut down the power and restarted the bike in level 2. After riding two minutes I got the flashing battery. I emailed Support and Gordon replied:
"If the battery meter is blinking while it is at around half battery, it is likely that your bike battery charge is below the required charge for a certain level of pedal assist. If you were at level 5 pedal assist, the battery did not have enough charge to operate at a higher power output and thus started blinking to let you know. I would recommend that you lower the pedal assist level to a lower level, then your bike would operate perfectly fine and you should have no issues."
I am really disturbed. He's basically saying that pedal assist higher than level one only works when the battery is close to full. What kind of electric bike is that? I am beside myself.
 
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The guy who was working for Surface 604 started his own company and will be releasing his bikes next year.

I don't know what happened to Surface 604 and just stumbled on this video.

 
Actually I only had it happen 1 time. I was at about 40% and flipped it into 5 to go up a steep hill on way home. After that, any time below 50% started up hill in pas 3 and gear 3 or 4. Got up hill fine, a little more effort but not horrible. Just sold the bike , not because anything wrong. In fact had 1000 miles on it this summer....zero problems. Great bike, miss it, bought a fat mtn bike, nice, but not as good. Hang in there.
 
Hi,
After lots of reading and watching endless ebike reviews by Court well as some test drives at one of the few ebike retailers in my area, I decided on a Rook. I bought it on Monday and want to ride it all the time! It is perfect for me! I have one small issue, and I thought that I would ask here before lugging the bike back to the shop. I have to transport the bike to area bike trails as riding on the roads around me can be really scary. To transport, I take the front tire off so that it will fit in the back of my SUV. Today, after I put the front tire back on, I could not get the front fender to stop rubbing. I adjusted the quick release on the wheel, and played with the fender mounts with no luck. The front of the fender seems too low and that is where it is rubbing. It did not have this problem before I started taking the front wheel off and on. Any ideas? Thanks!
I was really lucky to find this bike at a dealer. There aren’t a lot of shops around me that sell ebikes, and this particular dealer sells nothing but. I tried out several bikes and kept coming back to the Rook. From all my research, it looked like a great bike - excellent price with the qualities of a higher end bike. The dealer said he sells them as soon as he gets them.

I will check the screw on top of the fender to make sure that it is secure, and if the rubbing doesn’t stop, I will investigate getting a new fender. I have putting it through it’s paces over the past few days and have probably loosened a few things up. Thanks so much for your help and happy riding!

I had the same problem with a rubbing fender when first assembling my Colt. No amount of adjustment of the screw in the slot would allow for enough clearance. I finally took the fender off and with my Dremel Tool, I elongated the slot another 1/8" so that I could lift the fender higher off the tire. I called Surface and "advised them" that they should change the manufacturing specification on the that fender attachment bracket to allow the fender to have more clearance. Even with my modification the fender only clears the tire by about 3/16"...there's no reason for it to be that close.
 
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If you use Facebook, try running your question on the Surface 604 user group there. I think someone there has addressed a similar problem. You'll have to "join" the group to post anything.
 
Last month, the bottom bracket (BB) on my 2023 V Rook started making noise — a rapid series of 3-4 clicks on each full turn of the crank. The bike's was only 7 months and 1,200 mi old when it started. Sounds like @bascherz may have had a similar problem.

The noise takes a mile or so to start up but then lasts the rest of the ride. It only occurs on the left pedal downstroke — nothing if I push only on the right pedal. New pedals made no difference.

The noise always syncs 1:1 with crank rotation but never with any other part of the drivetrain, so it can't be coming from the wheels, chain, derailleur, or cassette — the last 3 of which were upgraded 2 months ago.

Since the pedals have been ruled out, that timing leaves only the cranks, chainring, or BB. But chainring's in good shape, and the chainring and cranks are tight with no impingement. That pretty much leaves the BB.

LBS/dealer agreed, inspected the BB, and said they "rebuilt" it. But the noise returned the next day. Sounds like some bad bearings to me, but I'm no expert.

Q1. Time for a new BB?

Q2. Warranty item or normal wear and tear at only 1,200 miles?

20230627_104926.jpg


Thanks!
 
If you have the tools replacing crankshaft and bearings on the bottom bracket is pretty easy and not too expensive. The bearings and shaft come in a cartridge. One would need to know the width of the BB. I assume that the bike is built of standard bike components.
My experience is clicking noise coming from the pedal crank arms at the crankshaft, usually on the sprocket side. . That would be on the square taper kind and everything before. Once that starts you probably need new crank arms. A retightening doesn't seem to work out long run.
 
If you have the tools replacing crankshaft and bearings on the bottom bracket is pretty easy and not too expensive. The bearings and shaft come in a cartridge. One would need to know the width of the BB. I assume that the bike is built of standard bike components.
My experience is clicking noise coming from the pedal crank arms at the crankshaft, usually on the sprocket side. . That would be on the square taper kind and everything before. Once that starts you probably need new crank arms. A retightening doesn't seem to work out long run.
Thanks! Crank spindle is round and hollow, as in photo above. The fact that the noise only occurs with a certain minimum downforce on the left peddle — and only when it's at 2-4 o'clock as seen from the drive side — certainly makes the left crank arm a prime suspect at this juncture. But LBS said the crank arms are OK.
 
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