Keith Kunz
New Member
I hope they clear up this, as it could turn into a public relations nightmare for the company.
Known Issues & Problems with Juiced Bikes Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes
- Thread starter Ann M.
- Start date
I have the exact same issue on my CCS. After 10 miles + riding, the motor was suddenly disengaged while the battery had over 80% remaining and the LCD worked as normal. Restarted and the motor was engaged back for about 10-20 seconds and then, power was completely cut out again. Kept riding and power was on and off. This is my first electric bike, so I'm not sure if this is a common issue for electric bikes or just mine is defective. I've reached out to Juiced Bike support team a few days back, but I haven't heard back yet (they used to answer my questions right away in August though). Please share if anyone has figured out the solution.
Keith Kunz
New Member
Hi Kong,
It is definitely defective. Since it requires some amount of riding before the motor disengages, they must have missed it in their QC quality check. I think once they realized there are multiple bikes had issues, they have gone quiet until they have some official response in place. They were very responsive at first for me, and then went quiet for last 10 days even after several emails on my side. I hope they send out an update to everyone very soon.
Keith
It is definitely defective. Since it requires some amount of riding before the motor disengages, they must have missed it in their QC quality check. I think once they realized there are multiple bikes had issues, they have gone quiet until they have some official response in place. They were very responsive at first for me, and then went quiet for last 10 days even after several emails on my side. I hope they send out an update to everyone very soon.
Keith
According to my dealer (who has my AIR) he was told by Juiced that it was the battery mounts in the frame and they are supposed to be sending new one/ones to be replaced.
Hi, I'm curious if these new battery mounts require a new design or if we're just dealing with faulty exceptions in an otherwise healthy product line.
I've requested info from my dealer regarding the ETA of the parts and repair. I will give updated info and pics as soon as I get my bike back. I'm hoping it's relatively soon but if they have to send these out to all the customers with the issue it might be a while. Fingers crossed!
Andy_in_CA
Active Member
What flavor of battery so you have again? Wondering if the effects all battery sizes.
I have the stock battery on the newer version of the AIR, which I think is 8.8ah
I have the 17 ah on the CC-S
Andy_in_CA
Active Member
FYI, as a point of reference other makers are having similar issues... as i'm guessing manufacturing in china and CQ is difficult.
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Tora Harris
Well-Known Member
We notice some users have some difficulty with the battery install and some intermittent power over bumps. We have had a little bit of time to understand the issue. Here is why there are some tight fitting battery packs.
The down tube of the frames are extruded like pasta then cut to the length required. The tubes are then CNC cut out. Basically its a precise drill that cuts out that battery cavity section.
The big packs (17.4 and 21.0 Ah) we make our selves and have more control.
The standard packs 8.8 Ah and 12.8 Ah packs we buy from Reention (http://www.reention.com/product/2) the battery case, the upper and lower interface bits. The interface bits get screwed into upper and lower slots of the cavity that is cut out of the frame.
When you insert the battery, it should snap in and lock. Everything has to be millimeter precise or the pack will:
1. Rattle around and disconnect over bumps.
2. Be too tight and does not set all the way in and disconnect over bumps.
The tricky part from the manufacturing standpoint is that the parts are changing at different rates but they all have to come together with millimeter precision.
So the cavity of the downtube can be adjusted by adjusting the numbers in the CAD file which is used to CNC cut the tube, easy. The plastic parts are basically not changeable by us. they are injection moulded and sent to us, so we just buy it. Hard.
The thing is the company making the case and the battery parts sometimes make tiny changes to the design. We have to each adjust the CNC to the plastic parts. All this creates massive confusion, on a few of the Air bikes the section is a little too tight.
We have checked all the bikes as they come off the line and the battery can go in and lock solidly in place, yes but it is quite tight. Tight is better as the interface parts are plastic and can compress over time. There has been some reports from other assemblers of the pack being so loose they fall out. We have the opposite problem.
Most all of the packs that lost power is because the pack is not all the way seated and locked in place. One way to test this is to insert the battery, then try to pull the pack out without turning the key.
1. If the pack comes out without turning the key. It WILL disconnect over bumps.
2. If the pack stays locked in and can’t be pulled out, it is very unlikely the pack will disconnect over bumps.
The tricky thing on some of the bikes is the pack is so tight that tricks some users from thinking the pack is locked in when actually it is not. It is something like when you slightly close a car door. It seems closed, but its not really all the way closed. You have to use a bit of force to get it to shut completely. We found if you install and remove it a few times it gets much easier to do as the plastic beds in a little.
In the future productions we will have this issue solved, by firstly more carefully understanding the battery and interface bits more carefully before doing the CNC work.
So what if the battery still cannot sit in totally and lock in place even after pushing with more force? Contact our Tech support again and we have several ways to improve it and can get 100% of them to work normally.
The down tube of the frames are extruded like pasta then cut to the length required. The tubes are then CNC cut out. Basically its a precise drill that cuts out that battery cavity section.
The big packs (17.4 and 21.0 Ah) we make our selves and have more control.
The standard packs 8.8 Ah and 12.8 Ah packs we buy from Reention (http://www.reention.com/product/2) the battery case, the upper and lower interface bits. The interface bits get screwed into upper and lower slots of the cavity that is cut out of the frame.
When you insert the battery, it should snap in and lock. Everything has to be millimeter precise or the pack will:
1. Rattle around and disconnect over bumps.
2. Be too tight and does not set all the way in and disconnect over bumps.
The tricky part from the manufacturing standpoint is that the parts are changing at different rates but they all have to come together with millimeter precision.
So the cavity of the downtube can be adjusted by adjusting the numbers in the CAD file which is used to CNC cut the tube, easy. The plastic parts are basically not changeable by us. they are injection moulded and sent to us, so we just buy it. Hard.
The thing is the company making the case and the battery parts sometimes make tiny changes to the design. We have to each adjust the CNC to the plastic parts. All this creates massive confusion, on a few of the Air bikes the section is a little too tight.
We have checked all the bikes as they come off the line and the battery can go in and lock solidly in place, yes but it is quite tight. Tight is better as the interface parts are plastic and can compress over time. There has been some reports from other assemblers of the pack being so loose they fall out. We have the opposite problem.
Most all of the packs that lost power is because the pack is not all the way seated and locked in place. One way to test this is to insert the battery, then try to pull the pack out without turning the key.
1. If the pack comes out without turning the key. It WILL disconnect over bumps.
2. If the pack stays locked in and can’t be pulled out, it is very unlikely the pack will disconnect over bumps.
The tricky thing on some of the bikes is the pack is so tight that tricks some users from thinking the pack is locked in when actually it is not. It is something like when you slightly close a car door. It seems closed, but its not really all the way closed. You have to use a bit of force to get it to shut completely. We found if you install and remove it a few times it gets much easier to do as the plastic beds in a little.
In the future productions we will have this issue solved, by firstly more carefully understanding the battery and interface bits more carefully before doing the CNC work.
So what if the battery still cannot sit in totally and lock in place even after pushing with more force? Contact our Tech support again and we have several ways to improve it and can get 100% of them to work normally.
Thanks for the info. After much riding trying to determine the cause of my power cutoffs on my new Air it does not correlate to bumps and seems completely random. I was told by my dealer (who currently has my bike) that you guys were sending them new battery mounts to install in my bike but in this description of the issue you just described I didn't see any mention of that as a fix. Is this true? I'd like to get my bike back and working soon.
Tora Harris
Well-Known Member
Yes, if some packs are still tight we can send some upper and lower interface parts. The parts sit lower and as a result give more room for the battery. It is very easy to change it out. However, we need to understand if this is what is actually causing the intermittent assist. Sometimes the dealer can figure out the problem faster, other times we can figure out the problem faster.
Ravi Kempaiah
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Canada
- City
- Halifax
Trail Cruiser
Well-Known Member
Have you thought of removing the battery to look for the cord inside the downtube?
Andy_in_CA
Active Member
its a bit tricky... I had to use a pair of needle nose pliers and i took the front wheel off. A flash light is helpful. its there... probably tucked up above the hole. just grab it with the pliers (gently) and pull it out slowly.
A
A
Andy_in_CA
Active Member
Thanks. I'll try that. Sorry my picture was so big.
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