Izip E3 path plus trouble

Just got the path plus today. Charged it and took it for a ride. After about 10 miles the motor started making a grinding type noise and I could not pedal the bike. I walked the bike a bit and it ran fine again.

Towards the end of my ride I used level 4 assist and tried to ride as fast as I could on level road, I was shifting gears at this point and the grinding came back. I did get up to 24mph so I thought maybe because I got over 20 mph the controller kicked in.

My dealer where I purchased the bike is forty miles away so I called Currietech. They believe it was just the way I was shifting gears. I took the bike for a ride without the battery and it seemed to shift fine.

Anyone else have an issue like this? This is not my first ebike but my other one is a Giant Esuede.

I also purchased the Path Plus and I am on my fourth motor in one month (2 motor replacements, 1 full bike replacement) for the same issue. On my commute in this morning (~40 miles on this motor total) the exact same rattling/grinding noise came back. I'm nearly done with this bike. There's a motor issue with it and I don't think they know what it is. I chatted with customer support this morning and they are committed to replacing the motor. I hope something can be resolved with this issue.
 
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I went through this w/my original Stromers, very frustrating. You should be on your "honeymoon" but instead you are fighting demons. Nobody would be believe that i went through over 10 motors between 2 bikes, very frustrating. Starting driving from DC to Philly for service but that got old. Eventually i was given new ST1s almost 3 years later, Haven t looked back since (except a couple of surprised Lycras, lmao)

best of luck

Mark
 
Maybe the glue that holds the magnets was skimped on by the Asian manufacturer and wasn't up to spec?
That sounds like a likely cause. Currie's tech support was helpful this morning and I'm hoping to have this resolved soon.
 
I also purchased the Path Plus and I am on my fourth motor in one month (2 motor replacements, 1 full bike replacement) for the same issue. On my commute in this morning (~40 miles on this motor total) the exact same rattling/grinding noise came back. I'm nearly done with this bike. There's a motor issue with it and I don't think they know what it is. I chatted with customer support this morning and they are committed to replacing the motor. I hope something can be resolved with this issue.

Sounds like my issue as well, but I won't be doing more than 2 motor swaps before I just park it at the dealer and ask for a refund.
 
I'm going to tell you guys you have to have a sense of humor about these problems... I doubt anyone has had more issues then me with my 2009 A2B Metro... Just enjoy being an early adopter.. Maybe we should have tee shirsts? LOL

The good companies figure it out eventually, if they don't go bankrupt first...Just make sure you have a good warranty.. Mine was 2 years on eveything, 5 years on the frame.

My history:

2009 A2B Metro, 2 batteries. Basically one of the most expensive EBikes at the time (OptiBike was more $$).

first week: smoked the motor, locked up couldn't even push it home.. Luckily someone i knew with a pickup truck saw me and took me home.
outcome: dealer and distributor had no clue after a week.. Gave me a new bike.

first six months, 1500 miles: Motor kept tripping out on long runs in the Miami summer. Ended up pedaling my 90lb home 15 miles more than once... a freaking PIA!
outcome: some mish mash of excuses ranging from sabotage to the controller allowing hard starts and the t/c tripping at low temperatures...
They mailed me no fewer than 4 new motor/controller/wheels. I mail them the crapped out one.

first year, 3000 miles: Second battery failed 3 times, sometimes on the first day.. More mail order. Many weeks of waiting.

first year: battery relay failure.. more mail order....

third year, 5000 miles: rear Swing Arm cracked at the welds, so the wheel/motor came loose from the bike.. very tough to walk home.

Last 3000 miles.. No problems! Motor was starting to get a little noisy, and the batteries were down to 50% range.. So I sold it.
 
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I'm going to tell you guys you have to have a sense of humor about these problems... Just enjoy being an early adopter.. The good companies figure it out eventually, if they don't go bankrupt first...Just make sure you have a good warranty..

I understand your position and would only add that parts aren't simply made 'down the road' anymore. If 'a container' is bad at these volume levels?...you're going to have one heck of a time being first in line for the replacement. If the company is belly up; your warranty is....

I'm a big fan of early adoption at the rate of current technology. What I don't expect is a bomb-proof say motor when I didn't purchase the bomb-proof design from the bomb-proof motor manufacturer (which is generally, from what I hear, not the 'standard' Chinese sourced motor) in the first place.
 
I understand your position and would only add that parts aren't simply made 'down the road' anymore. If 'a container' is bad at these volume levels?...you're going to have one heck of a time being first in line for the replacement. If the company is belly up; your warranty is....

I'm a big fan of early adoption at the rate of current technology. What I don't expect is a bomb-proof say motor when I didn't purchase the bomb-proof design from the bomb-proof motor manufacturer (which is generally, from what I hear, not the 'standard' Chinese sourced motor) in the first place.

Not sure what you're trying to say.. Except that IZip has been around a long time and they seem to have a decent product.. So I would guess that they will continue to be around and will fix your problems, no matter how manner times it takes....

I will say it is important that you find out who your distributor is, and contact them directly.. If that doesn't pan out find the National distributor and make your situation clear.. And also tell them that you love ebikes and are a regular contributor to these types of sites.. It also doesn't hurt to follow up in writing.. trust me it can be effective and it doesn't cost you a dime.
 
Not sure what you're trying to say.. Except that IZip has been around a long time and they seem to have a decent product...
:)...you're right...some things you just have to have a sense of humor about...(yeah, that's what I was trying to say):rolleyes:
 
The specifics of this thread (IZIP E3 Path Plus Trouble) kind of underscore the greater picture and challenge of the e-bike industry. Can OEMs design, build, and deliver products that work out of the box, and continue to work for 3-5 years without major troubles, and only maintentance? This question has been answered NO by every company that I know of, simply because of the complexity, rigors of use, and the design/manufacturing cycles. This issue compounds when people fork out $2-10k, and their new product doesn't work. We expect the ebike to work like a car - no issues, brand new, period. Since most regular bikes work fine, what's the problem?? The industry is getting there.

Some of the comments about early adopters are true - we expect to pay a little more and work through the trials. However, mainstrean public does not. Thus, the very informative and cool reviews by Court, on this web site, come accross as the cat's meow, like an ebike shopping chanel. Kind of like a Car and Driver selection guide. EBR is set up like a review guide, but it cannot flush out the upstart and minor/yet troubling design/manufacturing problems that arise with these new designs, nor is it intended to, apart from the forum.

There are three ways to prove a design with work and last. (there may be more)
1. Testing. This can get real expensive to test the power system, motor+controller+ wiring+battery. Regular bikes don't have that. There is also environmental issues, spray, water, salt, and its effect upon electronics. Then mechanical issue of shock and vibration. I bet most companies will not do any temperature/water spray/vibration/shock testing. They will do an electrical functional test, which may include some test riding. None of that prooves what will happen during a rain storm or riding at 20F, or test solder joints after 5000 miles of road vibration.
2. Trial and error cycle time - Feedback from real world customers, and incorporating changes into new designs. Here is where faults occur and get fixed with a new cycle time. This can get costly from warranties. Companies that have been around a while and made adjustments will have better long term reliability.
3. Analysis - computer modelling should be done to prevent major design flaws. Can the weight of a battery in the rear rack be sustained? Are the connectors waterproof by specification? What is the thermal model of the motor and is it protected thermally? Companies need some deeper pockets to pay engineers to do these analyses. Slapping a motor and battery from China onto a mountain bike and saying it is ready to buy is risky for the consumer, unless the OEM confirms piece part testing and does their own integration analysis and testing.

So what is a shopper to do? Well, you have the forums. I have seen two IZIP PAth failures on this forum alone, and would be skeptical. You have warranties. You have the fun vs. early adopter risk to weigh out. You have time to see the designs improve. Try to be patient if your new dream bike has a fault. Everything is fixable. Ebikes are worth the fun.
 
I went with Currie because I have two friends with older models that are still running fine. One even rebuilt his own battery (NiCad and has almost 2000 miles on it). EBR was one resource I used to research my bike but not the only. I buy tech for my company all the time, and I get some DOA's sometime which frustrates me. But I've learned to understand the odds. (A bad server still pisses me off tho) The Dash and Path share the same motors, within both those models there has been hundreds if not thousands of sales. Finding a few failures within that ratio online is perfectly acceptable to me.
I commend Larry and his company for the customer service. It has made my order an easier pill to swallow. I know Currie puts out a good product, that's why I went with them. I'm willing to give it another chance.
 
Izip and currie aren't my kind of bikes cause I'm a bit snooty on brand selection, even though it may have little to do with reliability and performance.

You have to look at their history and make your own judgement. If they stand behind their product and it's to your liking then u just go for it !
 
Izip and currie aren't my kind of bikes cause I'm a bit snooty on brand selection, even though it may have little to do with reliability and performance.

You have to look at their history and make your own judgement. If they stand behind their product and it's to your liking then u just go for it !

I agree with you Joe.
Although Larry's commitment and customer service is commendable, I could never convince myself to purchase a Currie bike because they still sell SLA based bikes and change models every year. I mean come on, the whole world has moved onto Li-based ones. Even in China, people are moving to Lithium. SLA's are heavy, toxic chemistry, short life span, memory problems etc.
If a company is still selling SLA based bikes and changing models every year, it kind of makes me question their business model and progressive nature. I have asked some of the top dealers in the west coast about why they don't carry Currie and they echoed the same thoughts.

Not going into the details of where these bikes are assembled and who is manufacturing the parts, changing models every year is still a questionable thing.
Anyway, if it suits your budget and needs and works well, why not.. go for it. Larry seems approachable and responsive. Good for the customers.
 
Thought I would report that I received my Path+ last week and have put about 80 miles on it (half with grocery loaded panniers) since then, no significant troubles with the motor. First 20 or so miles I kept it in PAS 3 or less on mostly level ground (2-3% grade) and have since made a 5 mile trip in max throttle cruise control with minimal pedaling. So far so good. No noticeable rolling resistance from the motor when power is completely off - the only difference I can feel from this and my other bike is the weight, but I've had no trouble dropping to a lower gear and biking without assist, even up moderate hills. No fear of running out of juice on the way home.
 
So far so good. No noticeable rolling resistance from the motor when power is completely off - the only difference I can feel from this and my other bike is the weight, but I've had no trouble dropping to a lower gear and biking without assist, even up moderate hills. No fear of running out of juice on the way home.

I agree, if one runs out of battery power, the bike can be fairly easily pedaled home.
However, some of these motor failures with loose magnets could totally disable a bike. If a motor locks up, there's no pedaling home. In fact, you probably can't even walk your bike home. That's what scares me!
 
Yes, and I may have spoken too soon. A mysterious clicking noise manifested itself in the last 5 miles or so of my ride home from work today...
 
Yes, and I may have spoken too soon. A mysterious clicking noise manifested itself in the last 5 miles or so of my ride home from work today...
Bummer... While I think @Charley Banana might be taking the magnet thing a bit far (especially after Currie support explained that they haven't seen lockups) it is definitely not something you want to have happen... Currie posted this PDF tech bulletin offering to replace the motors because the glue was faulty. Hope this helps, glad they're stepping up but sad that this kind of thing happens... wastes everyone's time, resources and can create a bad image for the space.
 
Yes, and I may have spoken too soon. A mysterious clicking noise manifested itself in the last 5 miles or so of my ride home from work today...

Check your rear spokes, if they're loose you'll notice the spokes rub and 'click' against each other. I had to use locktight to stop them from loosening.
 
Bummer... While I think @Charley Banana might be taking the magnet thing a bit far (especially after Currie support explained that they haven't seen lockups) it is definitely not something you want to have happen... Currie posted this PDF tech bulletin offering to replace the motors because the glue was faulty. Hope this helps, glad they're stepping up but sad that this kind of thing happens... wastes everyone's time, resources and can create a bad image for the space.

Of course Currie is going to down play the problem of magnets coming loose. I've worked with neodymium magnets and they are easily broken and shattered.

Here's what K&J Magnetics who sells neodymium magnets warns about them: "Neodymium Magnet Safety - The neodymium magnets we sell are extremely strong, and must be handled with care to avoid personal injury and damage to the magnets. Fingers and other body parts can get severely pinched between two attracting magnets. Neodymium magnets are brittle, and can peel, crack or shatter if allowed to slam together. Eye protection should be worn when handling these magnets, because shattering magnets can launch pieces at great speeds."

Sure, you could probably get away with peddling for a little distance without shattering the magnets. But, think of the stress of the magnets slamming against each other. Eventually, they will shatter into pieces. Then, wheel lockup will definitely happen.

One of the cons of having hubs motors on the front wheel that is discussed on forums such as Endless-Sphere is that if the magnets come loose and the wheel locks up, you could be thrown over the handlebars. Now, I know we don't have a front wheel hub motor. But, the discussion does show that loose magnets can and do lock up hub motors.

Just use common sense. If these magnets can shatter easily and they are being forced around a wheel spinning at 100 to 200 rpm and making god awful noise. Don't you think eventually they will shatter? Then, what happens to the hub motor?
 
To everyone concerned about the possibility of shattered magnets, and locking up wheels. As you can see with the attached pictures, that's not our hub, but very similar construction, there is such a tiny gap between each stator segment, a tiny gap between the outer diameter of the stator and inner diameter of the magnets. If a magnet or magnets would break free, they simply get trapped in their given spot, and magnetically stick to the stator, scraping as it rotates.

We have yet to experience even one broken or shattered magnet. They had simply been freed from the hub shell. The only "locking up" of wheels had been in a very few cases. I had seen one where 9 magnets were free, and only when the motor was engaged by the PAS or Throttle modes, did the wheel seem to come to an abrupt stop. This wheel, and ALL others, regardless how many or how few magnets were free, had the ability to roll, and be pedaled as a bike. There is absolutely no risk of this causing anyone to be injured.

Hub Motor.jpg Hub Motor 2.jpg
 
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