Is there a single gear, rear wheel, no hand brake, 500 w 48 V ebike conversion kit?

joemes

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USA
I want to have an ebike beach cruiser, single gear, pedal assist with standard pedal brake. Would like at least 500W, 48 V motor / battery. Does this kit exist? If so, where could I purchase it? Don't want to spend $1400 on an electric beach cruiser bike with gears and handle brakes. I want a single gear, pedal assist with pedal brakes electric beach cruiser.
 
electric beach cruiser bike
So, I take it you already have a bike that you want to convert. To the best of my knowledge, hub motors do not work with coaster brakes. The way to do it is with a coaster brake clutch mid-drive. The motor assist shuts down when you coast. Then it restarts when you pedal based on pedal pressure and pedal speed (cadence). It can be done, but it is better if you have at least 3 internal gears with the coaster brake. One way to do that is with a Nexus hub. Here is one such example. Yes, that is what a good electric bike conversion of a basic beach cruiser looks like. With a single speed you will need to launch gently because you cannot down shift and the top end will be limited, as will climbing ability.
 

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That is funny. I don't even think about front hubs. That would be so easy. Cable management is an issue with cruisers. I guess you could go external with painted zip ties.
 
That is funny. I don't even think about front hubs. That would be so easy. Cable management is an issue with cruisers. I guess you could go external with painted zip ties.
A front-geared hub like the small Bafang motors would be ideal IME. 36V 350W-500W would be adequate and wouldn't severely overpower the coaster brakes. My front 9C direct drive has regen braking which really helps with coaster brakes, but that's one heavy motor. Not great i sand. But if this is actually a beach bike there are fat bike hub motors.


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Think about the TSDZ2 coaster brake kit. You'll probably need to use a bottom bracket adapter if the bike has a single piece crank. You can contact these guys for what's needed. Probably 25 bucks for that and $525 for the kit. Add battery $250 to $750.

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Having installed both front drive kits and the TSDZ2, I'd rather do a TSDZ2. On the other hand, for easy beach cruising, I'd rather have my FWD kit, but I guess you could put the TSDZ2 on max assist and it would be easy. I ride mine at lowest assist to get the workout..
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Now $525 is a bit spendy. I can get the non-coaster brake version for under $300, and that's more than competitive with a hub,motor.
 
I converted a standard tsdz2 to coaster brake compatible. It involved changing the main gear that has a sprag one way bearing to a fully solid gear that only comes as straight cut so the reduction gear also had to be switched to a straight cut version. Without the sprag clutch bearing I did have a very short but annoying forward pedal bump when back pedaling for braking. Normally this isn't noticeable on a non-coaster brake bike because the sprag clutch doesn't transmit the short run on of the motor to the pedal when pedaling is stopped. It was annoying so I put a front brake with motor cut-out lever so the motor would stop immediately when the front brake was blipped. I read that others with coaster brake tsdz2 versions notice the same thing.
 
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That is funny. I don't even think about front hubs. That would be so easy. Cable management is an issue with cruisers. I guess you could go external with painted zip ties.
He said he didn't want a front motor in the title, but he'll have to decide which he wants, coaster brakes or front motor.
 
He said he didn't want a front motor in the title, but he'll have to decide which he wants, coaster brakes or front motor.
Or a coaster brake clutched mid-drive. These don't allow for a throttle for safety reasons. You want the motor to cut when coasting and before braking. I once took a single speed Townie with a coaster brake, and made it an 8-speed coaster brake mid-drive. The wires were internal. With the hub drives I know of there is about a two second lag between coasting and total power cutoff. That would not be good with a coaster. With a throttle it could be very bad if you are coasting under power and accidently hit the brake.
 

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You definitely can have a throttle with the tsdz2 coaster brake version along with brake cut outs - if you use a larger VLCD5 display and a 8 pin controller. You can also use a throttle with the smaller displays if you use a splitter cable along with a 8 pin controller (rather than 6 pin). But I wouldn't equip a bike with a throttle if it didn't have brake cut outs (requires VLCD5 as noted above).
 
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You definitely can have a throttle with the tsdz2 coaster brake version along with brake cut outs - if you use a larger VLCD5 display and a 8 pin controller. You can also use a throttle with the smaller displays if you use a splitter cable along with a 8 pin controller (rather than 6 pin). But I wouldn't equip a bike with a throttle if it didn't have brake cut outs (requires VLCD5 as noted above).
I see that you converted an eight pin standard version into a custom coaster brake version by replacing the clutch and main gear. The out of the box coaster version is six-pin only and does not have walk assist. I suspect because the pedals would turn and hit your shin. The coaster version costs something like 7% more.
 
That's good to point out. What can be done, not necessarily what should be done. Tsdz2 is a very modifiable platform. I didn't like it on that 3 speed coaster brake bike so removed it and reverted the motor back to stock - on another bike for the time being
 
Or a coaster brake clutched mid-drive. These don't allow for a throttle for safety reasons. You want the motor to cut when coasting and before braking. I once took a single speed Townie with a coaster brake, and made it an 8-speed coaster brake mid-drive. The wires were internal. With the hub drives I know of there is about a two second lag between coasting and total power cutoff. That would not be good with a coaster. With a throttle it could be very bad if you are coasting under power and accidently hit the brake.
The TSDZ2 master speaks!!! Great advice!
 
He said he didn't want a front moto
Regardless that limits the choice to one. TSDZ2B sadly the supply stream for small front gear drives has dried up. As have Bafang hubs. A GBK front hub would be perfect but like BBSxx series the supply chain sucks.
 
For less than a front hub wheel, I can deliver a high end coaster brake mid in 3-4 days. Use a 19-22 tooth cog on the rear and take starts easy. Cogs are on eBay for $20. I have only 5 star reviews on google maps. These are verified, all of them, it is not my mom writing them these are real local people. Other sources work too. If you can find a domestic one in Nashville or Utah. I wish you the best. See Pedaluma eBikes in Petaluma, CA on google maps to read reviews and to contact me, should you want. I give support.
 
People who have never owned a bike with a front-hub motor, automatically reject front-hub motors. STOP DOING THAT!
Not intending to argue with you, just trying to understand what you mean, and why you feel so strongly about front hubs.

Thanks.
 
Front hub motors have plenty of upsides - two-wheel drive (if you're pedalling) giving good climbing, good weight balance, no stress on the chain and cassette, motor keeps cool.

They also have downsides - poor traction off-road or in the wet, and uncomfortable over even small bumps due to that 3kg unsprung weight. The one I used also had some freewheel drag, and performance dropped quite a bit as the battery discharged.
 
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