Introduction: Bafang Geared hub Kit Build

GoingSlow

New Member
Region
Australia
Hello from Australia,

I just purchased a Bafang B020.500.DC motor kit with 48v20ah battery to fit to my current Fuji frame. Planning a trailer for solar also for touring. Exciting times!
 
Welcome! That is a big battery. Just curious; is the motor already built into a wheel, or are you building it, using the existing rim? Is the bike a quick release? Do you intend to use a torque arm or torque arms for your build? Disc or rim brakes?
 
I actually wanted a smaller battery, but perversely, smaller was more expensive. So (hopefully) bigger is better.

Motor is already in a wheel and has a disk mount. I'm currently running rim brakes, but going to upgrade to disk. Frame has mounts. I have purchased one torque arm, after the motor arrives, I'll see if I can get a second on over the connector. Bike is using quick release, but the motor is bolt on. I'm happy with that, as I prefer the bolt on rather than quick release.
 
Good. You have planned. With 500W getting some no turn washers would be good. Hopefully the wheel comes with them. Are you going with only pedal assist or also with a thumb throttle. In my opinion twists throttles can cause problems when for example walking the bike in a tight spot, or dismounting while it is still on.
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Don't know if the no turn washers come with it or not. I'd guess so, else it would have nothing to stop the axle turning. I'd seen the washers on other kits, but preferred a torque arm for more certainty. Rotating the axle will break too many things so I'm happy to avoid it. Also, AFAIK, the clutch in it can be welded and if the controller supports it, I could get regeneration braking. A second torque arm would be better in that case. Something for the future.

I'm not sure of my ride mode yet. I want to eek out as much range as possible. Contrary to what most people want, I don't want to go fast, so am happy to pedal. Some experimentation needed on which is better for me - throttle vs pedal assist levels. I rode motorbikes, so have a soft spot for twist grips. The kit comes with a thumb throttle, but I've ordered a half grip, twist throttle to replace it.
 
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My understanding is that even in hilly areas regen doesn't do much. In many systems you need to back pedal slightly to activate it so it is not going all the time you want to coast. If you are a motorcycle person a half-twist may work but even then it would be best to be a half-grip, half-twist. The problem is with a bike there is not that constant audible clue that it is On or Off. It is easy to forget when walking through a door and you lift the front wheel slightly to help guide the bike.
 
Grin Technology has a video about regen. You can get from 1 to 15% depending on the terrain. I'll be towing a trailer, and regen would help a lot with braking. I wanted a direct drive motor and regen capable controller, but decided to jump in with the Bafang hub kit for now.

You saying the twist throttles don't spring to off if they are released? Ouch. That will be annoying. Oh well, will see when the bits arrive and how it all works together. I assumed that letting the throttle go would be zero motor power.
 
There is a little lag 'for smoothness' but yes they spring Off. The problem is if it is bumped, that is all.
 
You saying the twist throttles don't spring to off if they are released?
All I've seen do, but twist are a PIA when moving a bike around with power on. Inadvertent tis will send the bike flying out of hand control. IME
 
will send the bike flying out of hand
I have seen this four times. Disasters each. As the bike flies up the twist increases. It is all too fast for conscious modulation, in the moment you can't let go when it is flying. Naturally one wants to hold control as it smashes upright through a glass door. All it takes is one second. These electric motors have immediate torque. The idle is silent, still, and awaiting only a guiding slight twist to fly.
 
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Also, AFAIK, the clutch in it can be welded and if the controller supports it, I could get regeneration braking. A second torque arm would be better in that case.
If you are dedicated to letting the motor do all of the work, do that. I ride unpowered as much as I can, and the clutch allows me to do that without drag. When the wind in my face gets over 18 kph, on goes the motor. I don't like riding 6 hours at 7 kph & 140 bpm. I'm age 72 and my heart "has nothing wrong with it" the cardiologist said. .
After you weld the clutch, when the rain takes out your throttle, enjoy the $80 ride in a tow truck. I pedal my bike to repair base unpowered myself. One time was 24 miles. Riding a DD motor unpowered was a real nuisance. Put it in the garage. Dragging a geared motor rotor at 5X the wheel rotation with your feet would be a real PIT*.
My twist throttles have sprung to off position themselves. 3 of them.
I make torque arms out of a piece of bed frame rail. Cut flat 1"x4", drill two 5/16" holes at right offset for motor axle, connect the dots with nicholson triangle file. Drill 11/32" holes for #10 screws for the 1" sheet metal fork clamp. Use #10 elastic stop nuts to prevent loosening. Alternate for international, 5 mm screws & nuts. Do not use hose worm clamps, they will stretch under torque.
Must not be very windy in Oz. Dragging a solar panel on a trailer would be nearly impossible here into a 50 kph headwind. When 100w 48v solar panels can be rolled into a 2" diameter tube I might think about carrying one in a pannier. I use panniers mounted behind my legs to cut the air drag of carrying cargo.
 
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All I've seen do, but twist are a PIA when moving a bike around with power on. Inadvertent tis will send the bike flying out of hand control. IME
How to you hold the twist - with all your hand wrapped around it? If so, yeah, poor control with that. Learn how to hold the it right so you have it right. For example this video
the 'dragger' method explains how I ride. I'm always covering the brake.
 
If you are dedicated to letting the motor do all of the work, do that. I ride unpowered as much as I can, and the clutch allows me to do that without drag. When the wind in my face gets over 18 kph, on goes the motor. I don't like riding 6 hours at 7 kph & 140 bpm. I'm age 72 and my heart "has nothing wrong with it" the cardiologist said. .
After you weld the clutch, when the rain takes out your throttle, enjoy the $80 ride in a tow truck. I pedal my bike to repair base unpowered myself. One time was 24 miles. Riding a DD motor unpowered was a real nuisance. Put it in the garage. Dragging a geared motor rotor at 5X the wheel rotation with your feet would be a real PIT*.
My twist throttles have sprung to off position themselves. 3 of them.
I make torque arms out of a piece of bed frame rail. Cut flat 1"x4", drill two 5/16" holes at right offset for motor axle, connect the dots with nicholson triangle file. Drill 11/32" holes for #10 screws for the 1" sheet metal fork clamp. Use #10 elastic stop nuts to prevent loosening. Alternate for international, 5 mm screws & nuts. Do not use hose worm clamps, they will stretch under torque.
Must not be very windy in Oz. Dragging a solar panel on a trailer would be nearly impossible here into a 50 kph headwind. When 100w 48v solar panels can be rolled into a 2" diameter tube I might think about carrying one in a pannier. I use panniers mounted behind my legs to cut the air drag of carrying cargo.

Sorry, I'm not dedicated to letting the motor do all the work. I don't want to use the motor to do all the work.

I'd encourage you to watch the Grin Technologies video on regen. Watch the bit about virtual freewheeling.

Thanks for the tip about not using the worm clamp. I'll make sure to make up a different option.

Solar isn't for anyone. I'm not trying to sell it as that. However, I'm planning trips where there is not going to be any charging facilities for 100's of miles. I'm also towing a trailer so will have space to place a panel.

Ride you own ride.
 
How to you hold the twist - with all your hand wrapped around it? If so, yeah, poor control with that. Learn how to hold the it right so you have it right. For example this video
the 'dragger' method explains how I ride. I'm always covering the brake.
those of us that worked support for nearly a decade know full well motorcycle throttles an eBike throttles have little in common. Who moves a MC while the motor is running and gearing is engaged? We’ve seen dozens of reports of dumped eBikes and twist throttles.
 
I'd encourage you to watch the Grin Technologies video on regen. Watch the bit about virtual freewheeling.
I view Grin promotion of elimination of one-way-clutch in geared hub motors one of the stupidest ideas of the last decade. Freewheeling using the clutch in the rear axle is fine for downhill runs. 50% of the hills I cross are up. I pedal uphill using muscle power most of the time if there is not a gross headwind. Maybe you have ski lifts to carry you up every hill you ride? The wife hauls you to the top of the hill in the SUV?
 
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I love them twist throttles, but have learned to turn off the controller before dismounting and to turn on the controller only once your are in position to start rolling. The full twist grip throttle is more dangerous than partial twist grip throttle.

And furthermore, regen braking is great! I get up to 15% Regen. It's fun to try to maximize the regen, but while the watts going backwards is impressive, how much of that actually gets stored in the battery is probably a whole lot less. Still, regen offers another dimension to ebiking.
 
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