I need help!!!
- Thread starter chaz
- Start date
Gionnirocket
Well-Known Unidentified Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Y. O.
This is the last one I used. Just follow the color codes. 
Gionnirocket
Well-Known Unidentified Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Y. O.
You'll need a model number or at least a photo of the hardware in question
Ok hold on I got one
Gionnirocket
Well-Known Unidentified Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Y. O.
harryS
Well-Known Member
A box of junk controllers looks like this. You cannot tell much from the label. You have to look at the connectors.
You need the wire diagram that is in the seller's listing, And they are all different. It's not worth the time to guess on every connection. You're on your own w/o any more documents,
You need the wire diagram that is in the seller's listing, And they are all different. It's not worth the time to guess on every connection. You're on your own w/o any more documents,
PCeBiker
No-Hands No-Pedaling No-Credentials
- Region
- Canada
That's a standard 48V controller.
BRAKES: LOW LEVEL means that it has an input for a brake cut-off switch that is activated when the input is shorted, and it runs off the standard 5vdc.
Speed set 1-4.2V is the standard throttle input.
Any voltage less than 1V or greater than 4.2V should give you a throttle fault.
It helps prevent accidental activation of the throttle.
I don't know what they mean by "DUAL MODE" ?
EDIT: DUAL MODE probably means that it will accept a 36V or 48V battery, and it will automatically detect the battery voltage and work safely with either battery.
Usually they label it DC36V/48V
BRAKES: LOW LEVEL means that it has an input for a brake cut-off switch that is activated when the input is shorted, and it runs off the standard 5vdc.
Speed set 1-4.2V is the standard throttle input.
Any voltage less than 1V or greater than 4.2V should give you a throttle fault.
It helps prevent accidental activation of the throttle.
I don't know what they mean by "DUAL MODE" ?
EDIT: DUAL MODE probably means that it will accept a 36V or 48V battery, and it will automatically detect the battery voltage and work safely with either battery.
Usually they label it DC36V/48V
Last edited:
fooferdoggie
Well-Known Member
Here is your help, and it is affordable.
Thank you so much that's a perfect match!!no do I have to use a display with that or no!!
PCeBiker
No-Hands No-Pedaling No-Credentials
- Region
- Canada
Actually, that information doesn't really help very much.
You still need the wiring diagram to find out which wires are what.
If @harryS 's post showing a controller is the same controller that you have, then you're on the right track.
Try to find out the exact ebike it came from and try to get a wiring diagram from the manufacturer.
You'll almost certainly need a matching display for the controller.
You can get a complete kit to build a scooter for $50-$200.
It comes with everything you need,..
I'm not sure about building scooters?
I don’t think they use a PAS sensor? And I'm not sure about brake cut-off switches either?
Perhaps @Slaphappygamer can offer some advice??
EDIT: scooters don't have pedals, so they wouldn't have a PAS sensor,..
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Slaphappygamer
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Other
- City
- over here
Right. No PAS.
Brake cut offs work the same as bikes. They both use a NO switch.
OP shows a 48v controller. You can tell because there is no mention of 36v, or its cutoff voltage.
“Dual Mode” means sensor and senseless. If a hall sensor burns out, you can still use the controller.
Brake cut offs work the same as bikes. They both use a NO switch.
OP shows a 48v controller. You can tell because there is no mention of 36v, or its cutoff voltage.
“Dual Mode” means sensor and senseless. If a hall sensor burns out, you can still use the controller.
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