Hydra Quick Start Thread

Let me begin by saying it would be easy for most riders to be better than me, after that, here is a warning. Start out gently with the assist levels you use to test your new Hydra. I almost always start out in assist level three or less out of five. Every time I have set the assist level higher and start to pedal I will invariably pop the front wheel off the ground and the only thing that saves me from going over is that I habitually keep my fingers on the brakes and my Magura t7e are so responsive at cutting power to the motor that they instantly interrupt my unintended wheelie.

Also when in higher assist mode levels the pedals may be going to a setting that is even more sensitive to pedal pressure or movement. I have wheelied up unintentionally just from resting my foot on the pedal with a little too much something.

Once under way.....sport mode sure is fun to add in.....at times.
 
Hi folks,
PLEASE try the following to have instant power for take off and no delay at all on your WW bikes…..

1. Climb on bike seat with arse planted and your brake levers engaged…
2. Put lead foot on pedal in a take off position…
3. When ready release the brake and apply pressure to pedal but not enough to start moving. Hold that for about a second….
4. Now take off; you will see you have all power to get these heavy rigs moving up even the steepest of hills and no sudden wheel spins because of delay in power….

It really is a natural and easy way to take off and not get the sudden delayed power surge that will spin the rear tire. Just try it….

@Merle Nelson - don’t you have the programming stuff working??? If not, come to the Barn and we can tame the beast….
-BB
 
No. I haven't got that together just yet. Wow, what a generous and incredible offer. I'll be looking for a way to take you up on that.

In the meantime thanks for the 'controlled launch' methodology. I'll use that immediately.

Actually one other thing I want to post about is how refined the response is on my Magura 7 brake motor interrupt. I use it as an ongoing tool. Barely crack the lever and power cuts. Riding by the occasional hiker, touch the brake and spare them the motor purr/growl. Come to a difficult section of trail and touch the brake lever to cut power while still pedaling - no drag down on bike.
 
Hi @Merle Nelson -
Power up your bike display. Press the “I” button twice real fast to enter the menu. You can double click it again to exit the menu….

On DISPLAY SETTING press “I” again to enter this sub-menu. So now press the “-“ button about 5 times to get to the SOC VIEW -now press “I” again to enter that field and then “+ or -“ to change from PERCENTAGE to VOLTAGE. Now double click “I” to exit. Hope that helps….
-BB
 
I was getting into the menu after early missteps, it was getting selection of % to toggle over to volts that had me blocked for some reason.

Got it now, thanks for both of your help.
 
A dumb question. I'm pedaling, pause, shift - which requires turning the crank to engage the IGH or cog.
Q: Will less than 1/3 turn create a problem (where power suddenly engages) for a mechanical reason - like insufficient engagement?
Same example from a stop. If I stop, down-shift then pedal, is there an unsafe zone for power engagement?

Fn'F
 
No problem shifting smoothly at all FnF. I can produce far smoother shifts with the Kindernay 14 than I can with other high quality chain and cassette set ups.

I do like to pause pedaling, shift and start pedaling again - no noises from hub. I'll come to a full unexpected stop or slow way down for hikers, stop pedaling, shift down as much as I guess is right - no noises etc. Let's say I slowed and guessing I shifted down too far, after my momentarily pause I start pedaling again and there is zero resistance. Okay, I went down to far, momentarily pause and shift up one or three gears at a time - flawless.

The youtube Kindernay videos say you can shift either up or down while under full load and that you just have to let off a bit to shift in the opposite direction. I'm sure their right but I don't like metal objects making that much noise. :)

If I missed answering what you asked let me know and I'll try again.

By the way.....I had a 1947 Dodge Power Wagon when I was young that apparently had no sincros (sp). Using a clutch did no good unless you matched the engine and transmission rpm. So after initial attempts to drive it like a modern vehicle I just quit using the clutch accept when stopping and starting. So....whatever works.
 
No problem shifting smoothly at all FnF. I can produce far smoother shifts with the Kindernay 14 than I can with other high quality chain and cassette set ups.

I do like to pause pedaling, shift and start pedaling again - no noises from hub. I'll come to a full unexpected stop or slow way down for hikers, stop pedaling, shift down as much as I guess is right - no noises etc. Let's say I slowed and guessing I shifted down too far, after my momentarily pause I start pedaling again and there is zero resistance. Okay, I went down to far, momentarily pause and shift up one or three gears at a time - flawless.

The youtube Kindernay videos say you can shift either up or down while under full load and that you just have to let off a bit to shift in the opposite direction. I'm sure their right but I don't like metal objects making that much noise. :)

If I missed answering what you asked let me know and I'll try again.

By the way.....I had a 1947 Dodge Power Wagon when I was young that apparently had no sincros (sp). Using a clutch did no good unless you matched the engine and transmission rpm. So after initial attempts to drive it like a modern vehicle I just quit using the clutch accept when stopping and starting. So....whatever works.
Thank you.
By pausing, you are resetting the latency effect.
When you input pressure to the pedals again, is there an assist lag? I'm reading it's a third of a rotation
That latency would produce a dead zone where the IGH can safely shift - a cassette as well.
Those videos - for Kinderny's 160nm max "full load" - are nice. I'm wondering about reducing Torque Sensor's input latency - esp to "instant" as I'm reading some seek. Won't that create problems shifting?
With low latency and a cassette, going warp torque with only couple of teeth engaged, even mentally conditioned where it's second nature - 'pausing an instant' would be no help. You (have to) hit the pedal (to change gears) and bingo, right at the change you have full torque.
But if that's not the case w/ Kindernay, it's a big deal.
-
WOW, a '47 Power Wagon (Shades of "The wages of fear" One of my favorite flicks) !!
No synchromesh 'needle bearings' in old PW's. Fond memories. I learned to drive (big stuff) at 15 - 16 in a '53 IH 10 Wheeler - towing a Low-boy, sometimes a Cat (D7?), but usually a Backhoe/ Skiploader. Duce-and-a-halfs are fun. Exactly, where I learned to match revs too.
Uncle's small construction company, had two. Mine: no synchromesh, no power brakes or steering. His, (improved by himself) a '54 tricked out with power everything and air-conditioning (another Uncle, Chief Engineer of a Tuna Clipper, total Diesel fanatic massaged the engine) and those gears were sacrosanct.
Mine took a block to stop from 30mph. 'Be tough, grip that wheel tight boy' - Hit a bump rip your arm clean out of socket.
When I got decent he let me drive his 'personally built' Big-block El Camino. Much more fun at the edge of control, the start of my High Performance lust.

Happy trails!

Fn'F
 
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