Hydra - 52v to 48v

Cuz Vinny

Well-Known Member
Has anyone changed the voltage on a 52v Hydra to 48v? Having problems getting a replacement 52v battery. WW doesn’t have any in stock and no eta as to when they will get some.
 
I should be easily confirmed by WW and procedure may differ if using stock Bafang Controller or Archon X1
 
It’s the Archon X1
It can be done with the cracked administrator version of the X1 Tool. The download links have been removed from the programming discussion thread, but I'll try sending it to you through private message.
 
I think changing the allowed voltage status for the Archon can only be done with the dealer software.

I just checked my info when I reprogrammed my X1 controller way back when I first got the motor and there are no perameters that give you access to that value.
Same thing for changing the wattage setting to.

The programming cables only give access to the "customer side" settings on both the X1 controller and the stock Bafang UART Controllers.

On a similar note.
I just ordered some stock 48v Bafang BBSHD controller's ( version B ) from GBK for a friend of mine and when they showed up I got a big surprise.

Their (2) older defective controllers were labeled 48v 1000w which is pretty standard right?
They both worked fine with the 52v battery packs I made from them way back when.

But the newest versions of these only work with whatever specific battery voltage system your running, they are not interchangeable.
48v controller only works with a 13 cell 48v battery pack otherwise you will get an "07 Overvoltage" Error on the display until the battery voltage gets below a preset voltage max that is already programmed on the controller.

Not knowing this change recently happened I started looking for a way to fix them.

CalEBike website has a support tab with a download fix for reprogramming 48v-52v ( re-flash ) the source code of the controller via a specified procedure which gives pretty good info on following.
You will need a PC and not a Mac based computer to do the swap.

GoldenmotorEbike up in Canada has a similar fix too but I kept getting a "corrupt file" prompt on my laptop when I tried to use it so I left it alone.

You might be able to reverse engineer the process.

Better yet send them an e-mail or give them a call, they have been helpful to me in the past and see if they have a fix for ya.

To bad your not close by I could make you a custom 52v battery to fit your bike possibly depending on what mods would have to be made.

I know you've been having issues with your present battery I think from another posting.
What size and are they 18650 or 21700's?

Just started making batterys using the Samsung 50E 21700 cells instead of the Sanyo GA's
Pricing on the 21700's have recently dropped making them a good choice depending on the size.

In the process of making (2) 30ahr 52v battery's for myself and a buddy who has the same bike, waiting on the pure nickel belt material from China.
A bit smaller in size, a bit heavier, and a bit cheaper to boot.
Hopefully the performance is as good if not better than the 18650's
We'll see.
 
I went from 52v to 48v... I did have to send my motor to WW to change the setting. If you use the hacked version of the software you can modify it yourself now.
 
There is a bypassed version of X1Tool where you can adjust the voltage (cut off voltage), amount of the battery cells, power, etc. Krasnodar (the Innotrace X1 developer) told not to use it, but it looks like it works according to some people reports. Innotrace website is down and I guess Innotrace support is down too so your options are to contact Krasnodar https://forums.electricbikereview.c...ons-and-experiences.40034/page-13#post-599696 or contact WattWagons, or just use the dongle with the bypassed tool

Please also note if your Innotrace controller was configured for higher power there is a good chance the regular battery you can find will not work because of the regular battery BMS power is likely limited to lower power and the battery will just shut itself down if the Innotrace X1 motor will ask too much power from the battery and you will probably end up with need not only lowering the cut off voltage of the controller but also lowering the current and the power of the controller if you want to make it works with a regular battery you can find.
 
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