How to change turbo mode to be as smooth as ECO
- Thread starter jsp45
- Start date
Jeremy McCreary
Bought it anyway
- Region
- USA
- City
- Carlsbad, CA
OK, anyone who puts that many pix of their bike in a post is already completely hooked. Which puts you in very good company here.
Beautiful, highly capable ebike. Also an amazing piece of electromechanical engineering when you dig into it, as I suspect you will.
Soon you'll be riding it to its full potential and having a ball doing it.
jsp45
Member
- Region
- United Kingdom
Thanks, yes, I do like it very much. I think it will be a lot of fun once I really get up and running on it.
The hubs are very interesting aren't they?
My next challenge is that it is has started making a high pitched whistling noise every half turn of the wheel. I suppose that is to do with the fact that I had to put the front wheel back on and it's probably rubbing the brake disc or something. I will ask my son. I think he will know what to do. Or at least he will enjoy finding out.
The hubs are very interesting aren't they?
My next challenge is that it is has started making a high pitched whistling noise every half turn of the wheel. I suppose that is to do with the fact that I had to put the front wheel back on and it's probably rubbing the brake disc or something. I will ask my son. I think he will know what to do. Or at least he will enjoy finding out.
Jeremy McCreary
Bought it anyway
- Region
- USA
- City
- Carlsbad, CA
Bummer. UANs (unidentified abnormal noises) can be very hard to pinpoint.
Every half wheel rotation is an interesting frequency for a UAN. Just in case it's a brake noise, best to reseat that front wheel ASAP. Don't want any abnormal forces on your rotor.
Last edited:
jsp45
Member
- Region
- United Kingdom
Hi,
I did a couple of experiments. I wondered if I could tell you?
I tried riding my bike with a 1.5L bottle of mineral water in the frame in place of the battery. That was to see what it would be like with the 1.5kg range extender battery instead of the 3.6kg 625wh battery. I do think it is quite a lot better. It's hard to carry the 3.6kg battery out to my bike in the first place, and then with the battery in the bike, it is hard to get the bike out of the bike box and down the side passage to the road. Doing all those things was much easier with a 1.5L bottle of mineral water inserted in place of the battery. When I got to the road, the difference in weight was sufficient that the bike became feasible to ride on the flat as a manual bike without needing the motor, so that was a big difference.
I then put the big battery back on and adjusted the power down from 600w to 490w using the flow app. I'm hoping that that tells me roughly what a reduction in power to 80% would show as I understand that that is what I would get with the range extender battery. It reduced the lurching significantly and when I took the bike to go up the steep hill, the power was noticeably reduced, but still fine. There is only one hill in my town and the rest is all flat, so I think the cost/benefit analysis suggests that having the lighter battery would be worthwhile.
The only tricky thing is that I will need to buy the range extender battery new for £400+ and find a way to sell on the nearly new 625wh battery. The shop can't do a swap because the battery is slightly used. I am planning to ask if they would buy it back for a used price (perhaps reduced by £50) to sell on to someone else. I will see what they say.
I did a couple of experiments. I wondered if I could tell you?
I tried riding my bike with a 1.5L bottle of mineral water in the frame in place of the battery. That was to see what it would be like with the 1.5kg range extender battery instead of the 3.6kg 625wh battery. I do think it is quite a lot better. It's hard to carry the 3.6kg battery out to my bike in the first place, and then with the battery in the bike, it is hard to get the bike out of the bike box and down the side passage to the road. Doing all those things was much easier with a 1.5L bottle of mineral water inserted in place of the battery. When I got to the road, the difference in weight was sufficient that the bike became feasible to ride on the flat as a manual bike without needing the motor, so that was a big difference.
I then put the big battery back on and adjusted the power down from 600w to 490w using the flow app. I'm hoping that that tells me roughly what a reduction in power to 80% would show as I understand that that is what I would get with the range extender battery. It reduced the lurching significantly and when I took the bike to go up the steep hill, the power was noticeably reduced, but still fine. There is only one hill in my town and the rest is all flat, so I think the cost/benefit analysis suggests that having the lighter battery would be worthwhile.
The only tricky thing is that I will need to buy the range extender battery new for £400+ and find a way to sell on the nearly new 625wh battery. The shop can't do a swap because the battery is slightly used. I am planning to ask if they would buy it back for a used price (perhaps reduced by £50) to sell on to someone else. I will see what they say.
Jeremy McCreary
Bought it anyway
- Region
- USA
- City
- Carlsbad, CA
Reasonable test, but I'd think twice about selling that main battery. Big hit on resale value, and you may find yourself wanting the range as you get more adventurous on the bike
jsp45
Member
- Region
- United Kingdom
It does seem to be very hard to sell it on without a massive hit in value. However, if I keep it I have to store it with no intention of ever using it, and all the risks of storing a massive battery. I can't really imagine ever cycling more than 30 miles without being able to stop and charge overnight.
It does seem to be hard to sell them though. But of head scratching going on here.
It does seem to be hard to sell them though. But of head scratching going on here.
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