I'm new to ebiking and have his/her Radrovers since Sept/2016 with +2600 miles between them. I enjoyed riding so much, I parked my car and ebike work commute 3-4 times a week (switch off both bikes to keep wear/tear/mileage the same). I put around half my mileage trail riding single tracks. Things I've learned:
- factor in about 20%-40% at a minimum above the cost of the ebike for gear, maint, tools, accessories, cold/wet/warm weather clothing, bike rack, etc...
- check out the max weight and utility. The Radrover can handle 275lbs with the rider weight and gear. I also added a rear rack+bag w/ foldout panniers when needed. Some bikes may have wight restrictions or no mounting points for a full rear rack.
- bottle cage points. My Radrover has 3 pre-drilled bottle cage mounting points. Comes in handy for securing locks, extra water bottles, or I use the downtube bottle cage mounting point for my Boomerang GPS tracker.
- regular tires, plus size tires (around 2"-3"), or fat tire (+4"). I like my 4" fat tires because they smooth out the ride and I can transition between pavement, dirt trails, uneven surfaces, and sand smoothly.
- storage and charging at work and home
- public transportation friendly; fat tire bikes are too big for bus racks, some utility cargo ebikes too long, folding ebike might work better.
- Commute range, hills, wind, weight, weather, (cold) temp: Everything lessens your range except riding downhill and/or a stiff tailwind. May need a larger battery, spare battery, or bring a charger if environmental conditions take too much of a hit on your range (I have another charger I leave at work to top off).
- any local bike and/or ebike restrictions (bike paths, parks, no bike lanes on main roads, etc...)
- front suspension with either springs or hydraulic forks help smooth out the ride at +20 mph. Some folks prefer locking out the front suspension; but, all that vibration has to go somewhere? I rather have the suspension vibrate instead of my arms.
- full suspension or hard tail. Some full suspension bikes may not have points for adding a rear rack for a bag with panniers. Sucks wearing a backpack when it is hot outside.
- with or without throttle. I rather have it and not need it compared to need it and not have it. I use my throttle on every ride and I wouldn't want to ride an ebike without one because of the way I ride.
- Hub or mid-drive. Hubs can be cheaper, always tail heavy, average hill climbing depending on grade and weight, easier to fix/upgrade, can have throttle+PAS, take 10 seconds to learn how to operate, and usually less range in the 20-40 mile range. Mid-drives can be 2X-4X more expensive, a lot more range of choices, much longer range, better at inclines, less weight, more balanced, hard to find with throttle, and ebike components can be more $$ to fix.
I would plan a weekend to test ride different ebikes depending on how far you are from the closest ebike store. I would mostly compare hub-vs-mid, narrow-vs-plus-vs-fat tires, with or without suspension, and eMTB-vs-cargo-vs-city bikes.