Help! I need a new e-bike! I need help in resolving two issues.

R

ronaldrodgers

Member
Because of age, I need to get a step-thru/step through bicycle. I currently have a Raleigh 2015 Tekoa with the replaced battery. I love this bike, in fact it has spoiled me.

I ride on easy mountain bike trails, but mostly greenways. I have two major issues with all e-bikes. The first is the controller in the motor, as in mid drives. This makes it harder to replace the battery, as I had to do with my bike. The second issue is the hub motor and changing of a tire on a ride. On one ride I had two flat tires, due to thorns.

I respectfully request your opinion on how I should resolve these issues.

Thank you,
 
That Raleigh is really sweet-- as is its nearest competitor, the Haibike XDURO RX 29, which is 45 pounds! (But Class 1 and not a step-thru.)

It's irritating to me that we're not seeing more new, reasonably-priced hardtails or FS bikes at 50 pounds or less, though I understand why it's a big ask.

I'm kind of not understanding your question. Doesn't the Tekoa have a mid drive, not a hub motor? If so, that should simplify tire changing. Another way of approaching that problem is to get tubeless tires. I ride over plenty of thorns, foxtails, and broken glass, and switching to Maxxis Ikon tubeless made them much more resistant to flat tires (I haven't had any in six months), I got greatly decreased rolling resistance, and dropped two pounds from the bike's weight. (I also replaced the saddle, so my Motobecane full suspension now tips the scale at 46 pounds-- but I have a much, much smaller motor than you do.) So maybe that's a different way of addressing part of your problem if you have a hub motor-- or just don't want to mess with changing the tire on the rear wheel, which is always a PITA w/ any geared bike, even one with no motor.

For the step-through, I don't know what to tell you. Maybe someone else will chime in. I'm 64, and it's definitely getting difficult to get on and off my bike... though the sloping down-tube helps. When I have to jump off-- say, ascending a hill that turns out to be too steep-- that down tube is *just barely* low enough to avoid... er, severe discomfort! I wish I had just another inch of clearance.

If it weren't for the step-thru issues, I'd wonder about modding your existing bike-- finding someone to build a new battery when you need it.
 
I found crank forward step through bikes like the Townie and KHS Smoothies to be a safe and sane solution. Sadly my declining heath has me taking a new direction. Day6 bikes.
 
You see the drop frame bike I'm riding left. I started having trouble getting foot over the high bar about age 62. I'm 71 now.
The 2016 Raleigh Tekoa has a a currie mid drive, Court's review says. I have no knowledge of that system. Bosch mid-drives have a patented battery connector that makes replacement batteries >$1000 and I read Shimano Steps mid-drive has a computer in the battery to make sure you don't replace that one with a generic battery either. Somebody on diy parts was complaining about shimano battery unavailability for 3 or 4 months.
OTOH 48 v 17 ah battery from california-ebike is $620 and littakal via aliexpress is more like $200.
As you are in Indianapolis I don't see goat thorns as being a serious threat. I ride $26 kenda knobby tires in Kentuckiana which roll right over broken glass metal shards & tire segments with wire poking out. Until the knobs get down to 3/32" which is where I change them. 90% of my tires reach life without ever going flat. See various flat tire threads for more expensive solutions.
Most brands now have a step through bike. https://www.magnumbikes.com/product/magnum-cosmo-plus/ Ones I've looked with short lists of known problems on the brand forums include blix kona trek giant gazelle. https://electricbikereview.com/?s=blix+aveny You do have to unplug the hub motor on bikes that have those to change the tire. Or you can do as I have, install extra wire to the hub motor and loop it up in ty-wraps so all I have to do is cut the ty-wraps, slip the wheel out of the fork and set against the bike standing on its seat & handlebars. Be sure not to buy a bike with a display that projects above the handlebars to do that.
Note the treks mid drives giants konas & gazelles have bosch or shimano batteries, whieh gets you back in the $1000+ battery department. Giant has yamaha, I've seen no battery price on that mid drive. There is no reason in Indiana to have a mid-drive IMHO. I ride a front hub drive across ~80 hills on my 30 mile commute to summer camp. Clark county is hilly away from the river.
Per comment above about 45 lb bikes, I don't see the point. Maybe if you take your bike for rides in your car. Personally I parked my car until gas gets back down to $1 a gallon. With racks, bags, 2 leg stand, battery motor tools 3 tubes 40 oz water rain gear my bike weighs 94 lb. I can pedal it up a 15% grade unpowered if I want. I do find excessive rear weight annoying and have my battery & motor mounted on the front to balance the bike when I'm pushing it out of the garage.
Happy shopping & later riding.
 
Last edited:
Thank you for all of your input. It is greatly appreciated.

My issue is whether to select a bike that is easier to repair a flat tire or a bike that will be easier to replace the battery after the battery is no longer able to hold a charge.
 
There is no question it is easier to repair a flat on a mid drive than a hub. Flats can be greatly reduced however by using flat resistant tires, tubes liners and sealant form companies like Schwalbe, Tannus, Slime etc. There are also butt ended tubes available from Gaadi, Huffy, etc. These let you replace the tube without removing the wheel.

Whether their rear rack or downtube mounted, most new e-bikes these days have removeable batteries. Replacement should not be a problem
 
My big issue for getting a new bike (a step-through/step-thru) is prioritizing fixing a flat or placing the battery after it stops charging. If fixing the flat is the priority then I would get a mid drive, if battery placement is priority then I would be getting rear hub. I have spent more time and money replacing the battery than fixing flats, including walking the bike back to the car.
 
Flats are the work of the devil! I ended up running Mr. Tuffy tire liners AND Tannus. Then I ended up passing the ebike forward to help a friend out. So far, no flats.

Quick opinion on ebikes. I only buy step-thru. No more cowboy mounting for me. Second, I only get 20" wheel ebikes. No more 26" or larger wheels. Makes handling easier for me. Finally, as much as I can afford a premium ebike I just stay in the $2500 and down price bracket. My all time favorite ebike, and the one I passed on, was a RadRunner. Though I preach that 20mph is fast enough I do like the extra speed of a Class 3 at 28mph for my commute to work. I pre-ordered a Juiced RipRacer as I think that will be the perfect ebike for me, but due to supply issues it got pushed back to later in the year. Wish I would have hung onto the RadRunner awhile longer.....
 
6zfshdb said:
There is no question it is easier to repair a flat on a mid drive than a hub. Flats can be greatly reduced however by using flat resistant tires, tubes liners and sealant form companies like Schwalbe, Tannus, Slime etc. There are also butt ended tubes available from Gaadi, Huffy, etc. These let you replace the tube without removing the wheel.

Whether their rear rack or downtube mounted, most new e-bikes these days have removeable batteries. Replacement should not be a problem
Click to expand...
I needed to replace the battery on my Raleigh Tekoa and That battery was in production or being rebuild by the companies I looked into. I had to rig a aftermarket battery onto the bike.
 
Catalyzt said:
That Raleigh is really sweet-- as is its nearest competitor, the Haibike XDURO RX 29, which is 45 pounds! (But Class 1 and not a step-thru.)

It's irritating to me that we're not seeing more new, reasonably-priced hardtails or FS bikes at 50 pounds or less, though I understand why it's a big ask.

I'm kind of not understanding your question. Doesn't the Tekoa have a mid drive, not a hub motor? If so, that should simplify tire changing. Another way of approaching that problem is to get tubeless tires. I ride over plenty of thorns, foxtails, and broken glass, and switching to Maxxis Ikon tubeless made them much more resistant to flat tires (I haven't had any in six months), I got greatly decreased rolling resistance, and dropped two pounds from the bike's weight. (I also replaced the saddle, so my Motobecane full suspension now tips the scale at 46 pounds-- but I have a much, much smaller motor than you do.) So maybe that's a different way of addressing part of your problem if you have a hub motor-- or just don't want to mess with changing the tire on the rear wheel, which is always a PITA w/ any geared bike, even one with no motor.

For the step-through, I don't know what to tell you. Maybe someone else will chime in. I'm 64, and it's definitely getting difficult to get on and off my bike... though the sloping down-tube helps. When I have to jump off-- say, ascending a hill that turns out to be too steep-- that down tube is *just barely* low enough to avoid... er, severe discomfort! I wish I had just another inch of clearance.

If it weren't for the step-thru issues, I'd wonder about modding your existing bike-- finding someone to build a new battery when you need it.
Click to expand...
Thank you.
 
indianajo said:
You see the drop frame bike I'm riding left. I started having trouble getting foot over the high bar about age 62. I'm 71 now.
The 2016 Raleigh Tekoa has a a currie mid drive, Court's review says. I have no knowledge of that system. Bosch mid-drives have a patented battery connector that makes replacement batteries >$1000 and I read Shimano Steps mid-drive has a computer in the battery to make sure you don't replace that one with a generic battery either. Somebody on diy parts was complaining about shimano battery unavailability for 3 or 4 months.
OTOH 48 v 17 ah battery from california-ebike is $620 and littakal via aliexpress is more like $200.
As you are in Indianapolis I don't see goat thorns as being a serious threat. I ride $26 kenda knobby tires in Kentuckiana which roll right over broken glass metal shards & tire segments with wire poking out. Until the knobs get down to 3/32" which is where I change them. 90% of my tires reach life without ever going flat. See various flat tire threads for more expensive solutions.
Most brands now have a step through bike. https://www.magnumbikes.com/product/magnum-cosmo-plus/ Ones I've looked with short lists of known problems on the brand forums include blix kona trek giant gazelle. https://electricbikereview.com/?s=blix+aveny You do have to unplug the hub motor on bikes that have those to change the tire. Or you can do as I have, install extra wire to the hub motor and loop it up in ty-wraps so all I have to do is cut the ty-wraps, slip the wheel out of the fork and set against the bike standing on its seat & handlebars. Be sure not to buy a bike with a display that projects above the handlebars to do that.
Note the treks mid drives giants konas & gazelles have bosch or shimano batteries, whieh gets you back in the $1000+ battery department. Giant has yamaha, I've seen no battery price on that mid drive. There is no reason in Indiana to have a mid-drive IMHO. I ride a front hub drive across ~80 hills on my 30 mile commute to summer camp. Clark county is hilly away from the river.
Per comment above about 45 lb bikes, I don't see the point. Maybe if you take your bike for rides in your car. Personally I parked my car until gas gets back down to $1 a gallon. With racks, bags, 2 leg stand, battery motor tools 3 tubes 40 oz water rain gear my bike weighs 94 lb. I can pedal it up a 15% grade unpowered if I want. I do find excessive rear weight annoying and have my battery & motor mounted on the front to balance the bike when I'm pushing it out of the garage.
Happy shopping & later riding.
Click to expand...
Thank you.
 
indianajo said:
You see the drop frame bike I'm riding left. I started having trouble getting foot over the high bar about age 62. I'm 71 now.
The 2016 Raleigh Tekoa has a a currie mid drive, Court's review says. I have no knowledge of that system. Bosch mid-drives have a patented battery connector that makes replacement batteries >$1000 and I read Shimano Steps mid-drive has a computer in the battery to make sure you don't replace that one with a generic battery either. Somebody on diy parts was complaining about shimano battery unavailability for 3 or 4 months.
OTOH 48 v 17 ah battery from california-ebike is $620 and littakal via aliexpress is more like $200.
As you are in Indianapolis I don't see goat thorns as being a serious threat. I ride $26 kenda knobby tires in Kentuckiana which roll right over broken glass metal shards & tire segments with wire poking out. Until the knobs get down to 3/32" which is where I change them. 90% of my tires reach life without ever going flat. See various flat tire threads for more expensive solutions.
Most brands now have a step through bike. https://www.magnumbikes.com/product/magnum-cosmo-plus/ Ones I've looked with short lists of known problems on the brand forums include blix kona trek giant gazelle. https://electricbikereview.com/?s=blix+aveny You do have to unplug the hub motor on bikes that have those to change the tire. Or you can do as I have, install extra wire to the hub motor and loop it up in ty-wraps so all I have to do is cut the ty-wraps, slip the wheel out of the fork and set against the bike standing on its seat & handlebars. Be sure not to buy a bike with a display that projects above the handlebars to do that.
Note the treks mid drives giants konas & gazelles have bosch or shimano batteries, whieh gets you back in the $1000+ battery department. Giant has yamaha, I've seen no battery price on that mid drive. There is no reason in Indiana to have a mid-drive IMHO. I ride a front hub drive across ~80 hills on my 30 mile commute to summer camp. Clark county is hilly away from the river.
Per comment above about 45 lb bikes, I don't see the point. Maybe if you take your bike for rides in your car. Personally I parked my car until gas gets back down to $1 a gallon. With racks, bags, 2 leg stand, battery motor tools 3 tubes 40 oz water rain gear my bike weighs 94 lb. I can pedal it up a 15% grade unpowered if I want. I do find excessive rear weight annoying and have my battery & motor mounted on the front to balance the bike when I'm pushing it out of the garage.
Happy shopping & later riding.
Click to expand...
Really good points r.e. battery pricing issues, terrain where you live and what kind of riding you do-- and what part of your body is having the most difficulty. I like the geometry of my mid-drive Motobecane, but in three to five years, I will probably need a more powerful motor (if it's even possible to replace the entire system, which is not at all certain), so phase of life is very important, too.

I have a lightweight, low-power, short-range hub drive kit bike as well (40 lbs.) that I use just for 20-30 minute fitness rides around my neighborhood, which has many hills just under or just over 15%. Hub drives are far more capable than they are given credit for-- I got passed by one just yesterday, and on a long hill at that!

My shoulders are in bad shape, and about 40% of my riding is on dirt or on ancient, derelict roads where the asphalt is so crumbled that it might as well be dirt; on longer rides, I sometimes have to navigate short stretches with grades over 20%. I sometimes have to lift the bike over obstacles, gates (there's a gap for pedestrians and bikes, but you have to lift the bike to get the handlebars over the top) or washouts, my shoulders are in very bad shape, so for me, even 50 pounds is definitely too heavy. My own body weight is very low, so I find a lighter bike handles far better for me.

But that is me, and those factors are unique to my situation. It sounds like you ride trails that are better maintained and not as steep. The hard part is future-proofing your drive train and battery system. That is part of the reason I have two bikes. For my hub drive kit bike, I'll always be able to find some kind of replacement battery-- the controller is simple, everything on the bike is easy to replace. For my mid-drive, I will have to plan upgrades and replacements to the drivetrain at least six months in advance, factoring in shipping time and availability, and budget a lot more money.
 
Catalyzt said:
Really good points r.e. battery pricing issues, terrain where you live and what kind of riding you do-- and what part of your body is having the most difficulty. I like the geometry of my mid-drive Motobecane, but in three to five years, I will probably need a more powerful motor (if it's even possible to replace the entire system, which is not at all certain), so phase of life is very important, too.

I have a lightweight, low-power, short-range hub drive kit bike as well (40 lbs.) that I use just for 20-30 minute fitness rides around my neighborhood, which has many hills just under or just over 15%. Hub drives are far more capable than they are given credit for-- I got passed by one just yesterday, and on a long hill at that!

My shoulders are in bad shape, and about 40% of my riding is on dirt or on ancient, derelict roads where the asphalt is so crumbled that it might as well be dirt; on longer rides, I sometimes have to navigate short stretches with grades over 20%. I sometimes have to lift the bike over obstacles, gates (there's a gap for pedestrians and bikes, but you have to lift the bike to get the handlebars over the top) or washouts, my shoulders are in very bad shape, so for me, even 50 pounds is definitely too heavy. My own body weight is very low, so I find a lighter bike handles far better for me.

But that is me, and those factors are unique to my situation. It sounds like you ride trails that are better maintained and not as steep. The hard part is future-proofing your drive train and battery system. That is part of the reason I have two bikes. For my hub drive kit bike, I'll always be able to find some kind of replacement battery-- the controller is simple, everything on the bike is easy to replace. For my mid-drive, I will have to plan upgrades and replacements to the drivetrain at least six months in advance, factoring in shipping time and availability, and budget a lot more money.
Click to expand...
Thank you for your input. You have confirmed my thoughts about hub vs mid drive bikes. Today I went to some bike stores and tested a couple of bikes. That included lifting them. I currently use a trunk rack for my bike. I found out two things. First that mid drive bikes are easier to put on my rack. Second with the step-throughs that I tested I will need to get a hitch and rack because of the weight issues.
 
ronaldrodgers said:
Thank you for your input. You have confirmed my thoughts about hub vs mid drive bikes. Today I went to some bike stores and tested a couple of bikes. That included lifting them. I currently use a trunk rack for my bike. I found out two things. First that mid drive bikes are easier to put on my rack. Second with the step-throughs that I tested I will need to get a hitch and rack because of the weight issues.
Click to expand...

Careful with trunk racks. Check the manufacturer specs for weight tolerance. The last you need is your rack collapsing from highway speeds and wind blast.
 
fooferdoggie said:
bosch has the longest lasting batteries out there and you can still get battereis for the oldest bikes.
Click to expand...
Thank you for your input.
Marci jo said:
Careful with trunk racks. Check the manufacturer specs for weight tolerance. The last you need is your rack collapsing from highway speeds and wind blast.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I will be making sure that the bike's weight is still in the rack's weight tolerance. Good point.
 
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