Headlight on st2

[PDX_Commuter]

I’m still waiting for the m99 mini pro e-25 to ship but just noticed that there’s also a m99 mini pro e-45 (targeted for Jan release?) but that is rated for 12v only compared to the smart voltage feature of the e-25 version. Anyone know if the st2 will output 12v? The European st2 have m99 mini (can’t find any specific model number for their front light to figure out the voltage). Guess I should just try to measure on my own bike but had recently put on a heat shrink tubing over the connector since it kept disconnecting every couple of weeks ).

 

[Chuck E. Cheese]

The ST2 only has 6V available for the headlight. I don’t know how much amperage it can supply, but I was told but someone at Stromer that if I wanted anything significantly brighter than the OEM Supernova it would need its own power source.

I certainly hope that if anyone here finds a significantly better light than the Supernova that can be wired in to the existing light wiring they post about it. The Niterider 1100 Boost I bought last summer is a great light, but I hate having to charge it and I miss having the on/off switch right next to my thumb.

 

[Stromer2work]

The ST2 only has 6V available for the headlight. I don’t know how much amperage it can supply, but I was told but someone at Stromer that if I wanted anything significantly brighter than the OEM Supernova it would need its own power source.

I certainly hope that if anyone here finds a significantly better light than the Supernova that can be wired in to the existing light wiring they post about it. The Niterider 1100 Boost I bought last summer is a great light, but I hate having to charge it and I miss having the on/off switch right next to my thumb.

Been thinking about how to install a line voltage light. Would need to get a relay that uses the original 6V power to the existing small tiny unworthy light. Use that 6V to pull in a normally closed relay that supplies 48V off the main battery power to a Supernova light. Seems like a lot of work to do to my ST1x, so i'll just run an external light and a one more on my helmet. I considered buying a ST2 to ride during the winter, but it has a similar unworthy front light.

 

[hurricane56]

The m99 Pro does not require CANBUS connection to work. I have one connected to my Juiced Bike with only the standard positive and negative battery terminals and it works great.

 

[PDX_Commuter]

I finally got mine supernova m99 mini pro e-25 in last week and got around to installing it tonight. It is definitely brighter than the stock supernova that comes on a US ST2 but I found a couple of gotchas. 1) the existing mount isn’t really made for the m99 mini pro - you can still use it but the light won’t be completely centered and 2) more importantly it looks like you can only use the low beam (450lm). When stopped you can toggle to the high beam (1150lm) but during my quick ride around the block when I tried the high beam it reset back to the low beam. Not sure if it’s b/c the power draw was too high or b/c of the switching. The m99 mini pro is rated for 5v-12v. Hope there’s some tweaking I can do to be able to make use of the high beams. I ride through the park on my commute home and the high beam would be helpful with the curves in the road.

 

[mike156]

Very interesting, much appreciated!! Does the m99 mini come with a mount that can replace the mount for the stock light?

 

[PDX_Commuter]

Very interesting, much appreciated!! Does the m99 mini come with a mount that can replace the mount for the stock light?

The m99 mini pro e-25 doesn’t come with separate mount. I was able to make it work with the existing mount but it’s slightly off center. Will likely remount it once I get my new handle bars. Also an update on the m99 mini pro e-25 - I was able to utilize the high beam - set it on high before riding out this morning so the st2 is capable of handling the increased amperage. True test on how much of an improvement will be commuting home tonight through the park which has no street lights and twisty roads for several miles.

 

[mike156]

Let us know how it goes!

 

[PDX_Commuter]

The m99 mini pro e-25 is still brighter in low compared to the standard e3 but the fact that you can’t easily toggle from low to high beam consistently on the go is a bit frustrating to me but guess it’s something I’ll live with for now. Tempted to open things up and rewire to the 12v source based on the diagram that Ravi posted. I just came across the posting on the Dutch stromer forum where they had some diagrams and instructions to wire a m99 pro to a st2 - so if I had to do it over again may have gone that route instead.

 

[mike156]

RIght, and I imagine the light being off-center, a little bit left or right, is also a bit less than ideal.

 

[Chuck E. Cheese]

The m99 mini pro e-25 is still brighter in low compared to the standard e3 but the fact that you can’t easily toggle from low to high beam consistently on the go is a bit frustrating to me but guess it’s something I’ll live with for now. Tempted to open things up and rewire to the 12v source based on the diagram that Ravi posted. I just came across the posting on the Dutch stromer forum where they had some diagrams and instructions to wire a m99 pro to a st2 - so if I had to do it over again may have gone that route instead.

Would you please share the link? I searched a bit but couldn't find anything. I would do that mod immediately if it actually works.

Thanks!

 

[Ravi Kempaiah]

The m99 mini pro e-25 doesn’t come with separate mount. I was able to make it work with the existing mount but it’s slightly off center. Will likely remount it once I get my new handle bars. Also an update on the m99 mini pro e-25 - I was able to utilize the high beam - set it on high before riding out this morning so the st2 is capable of handling the increased amperage. True test on how much of an improvement will be commuting home tonight through the park which has no street lights and twisty roads for several miles.

on the ST2-S, you can do that. But then, the M99 Pro is connected via CANBUS cable and can accept this kind of lo-hi switch.
You may want to try updating your firmware to the latest one and see if that helps.
I doubt it would because the lo-hi switch is not connected to the main CANBUS cable.

 

[bluecat]

The m99 Pro does not require CANBUS connection to work. I have one connected to my Juiced Bike with only the standard positive and negative battery terminals and it works great.

That's it!

It might be tricky to figure out where in the Stromer the full battery power is available. The battery has a safety management; the contacts are without the full current unless the Stromer is operational.

 

[Ravi Kempaiah]

That's it!

It might be tricky to figure out where in the Stromer the full battery power is available. The battery has a safety management; the contacts are without the full current unless the Stromer is operational.

M99 Pro doesn't need CANBUS BUT it is connected via CANBUS on the ST2-S.
When bought separately, it comes with its own switch but on Stromer, it uses the built-in switch to toggle between lo and hi.

 

[bluecat]

M99 Pro doesn't need CANBUS BUT it is connected via CANBUS on the ST2-S.
When bought separately, it comes with its own switch but on Stromer, it uses the built-in switch to toggle between lo and hi.

Yes, of course, you're absolutely right.

What I tried to emphasize was this: Whoever want to upgrade the lighting, don't take small steps - because the biggest step is also possible.

My bike mechanic added a M99pro to his well modified ST1 (not in pic) The one behind the ST2s is my Stromer with 2200Lumen MTB lighting - but for 45km/h, the M99 is the better choice.

 

[slayer1]

I'm a little late to the thread but I'm sure there are still ST2 owners who want to upgrade their light. I upgraded my light to a Supernova 99 pure (6v) ordered directly from Germany ( also ordered the center mount because the E3 mount would not work for the Pure 99.) It was not a simple plug and play so here are the issues and. I do make some assumptions but all systems are working.

1. The stock E3 light is a 6v and 3 watts ( based on the E3 dynamo specs.) The day time light on the head tube is a 6v and 4.5w found stamped on the inside of the light. Also note that the rear light is 6v but unknown watts which will be important if you want to upgrade the tail light.

2. Many have asked about current limits for the headlight. Using some basic physics, watts = current x volts, then the E3 headlight draws a current of 0.5 amps (3w/6v) and the built-in day time light draws 0.75 amps (4.5w/6v). This becomes important for the upgrade to the Pure 99 which draws 1.167 amps when the headlight is on (7 watts headlight /6 volts) and 0.75 amps (4.5w/6v) in daytime running mode.

3. I chose to splice the Pure 99 into the existing wires so I clipped off the E3 and attached the Pure to the end with the connector plug still intact. I thought this would work as "plug and play" but here is what happened. When the Pure 99 daytime running light was on the bike worked fine. But when the Pure headlight turned on (this happens automatically with the built in sensor), all of the lights (head tube daytime light, Pure and tail light) would start flashing. The motor would also get very jerky. And then the lights would ultimately turn off. If I turned the Pure headlight off with the handle bar button then the bike would run fine and the head tube day time light and tail light would come on.

4. Using the posted electrical diagram from earlier in the thread, it suggested that all the light are programmed into one circuit. And given the behavior of the bike, I assumed that there was a programmed limit for the current draw for all the lights. The stock set up has a draw of 1.25 amps (plus the tail light which doesn't matter at this point). With the Pure installed, the total draw with the Pure daytime light is 1.5 amps but when the Pure headlight comes on it goes up to 1.917 amps. This clearly exceeds the assumed programmed limit based on the bikes behavior.

5. The Solution: since the Pure 99 has a built in day time light, I did not need the built in one on the head tube. By eliminating this, I would reduce the draw from 1.917 amps to 1.167 amps which was below the original stock set up. I removed the three screws securing the built in daytime light and used a soldering iron to disconnect one of the leads to the light (do not confuse with the USB wire.) I taped it off and replaced the light back in the original position. Now the light works perfectly in both day time running and full light mode.

6. One other note. Since the 500 lumens of the 99 Pure are directed downward into a half conical beam, one could argue that its illumination is equivalent to a 1000 lumen regular conical beam (standard MTB/bike light) that sends half the light up in th air.

7. I have a helmet mounted Lupine Pika light (up to 1600 lumen) but this adds a bit of weight to the helmet. I like the fact that I can now night ride without the helmet light/added weight.

8. I am planning to upgrade the tail light to an E3 which draws 0.3 watts. The Pure 99 set up is drawing 1.167 amps plus original tail light. As stated earlier, I was able to draw 1.5 amps plus the original tail light without any problems. This would imply that I have 0.33 amps to work with. I'll let you know how it goes.

I would be happy to answer any question you might have.

 

[mike156]

Wow what an awesome writeup slayer1! You really know your stuff, thanks so much for laying it all out like you did. That's awesome that you figured it all out and got it working.

I picked up a Specialized Flux Expert a few months ago for $250 usd, and it works great. It has reflectors inside so you get low beam and high beam, and the light's battery lasts a long time, but the light is very hard to find anymore. If you find it online from a bike store, it might say "cannot be shipped," but that's not true. It can, just not by air because of the li-ion battery. I called a store, and they shipped it to me.

 

[Ravi Kempaiah]

I removed the three screws securing the built in daytime light and used a soldering iron to disconnect one of the leads to the light (do not confuse with the USB wire.) I taped it off and replaced the light back in the original position.

Great report!
I hope you know that you can remove the day light on the bike using the touchpad menu option. Looks like you took the harder route.

To the set the Daylight:
1.Set the bike on the main screen that has Lock, Off, Sensor, Move, Menu.

2.Pull and hold the right brake lever.

3.While holding the right brake lever, push the Menu icon.

4.While holding the Menu icon, release the brake lever.

5.Continue holding the Menu icon until the screen automatically takes you to the MENU.

6.Scroll down to SERVICE and select it.

7.In SERVICE, select SETTINGS.

8.In SETTINGS, you’ll see DL AUTONOM. The setting should be OFF, so just press the OFF to change it to ON or vice-versa.

9.Press the On / Off switch underneath the top tube to exit this menu.

10.You’re done.

 

[slayer1]

Great report!
I hope you know that you can remove the day light on the bike using the touchpad menu option. Looks like you took the harder route.

To the set the Daylight:
1.Set the bike on the main screen that has Lock, Off, Sensor, Move, Menu.

2.Pull and hold the right brake lever.

3.While holding the right brake lever, push the Menu icon.

4.While holding the Menu icon, release the brake lever.

5.Continue holding the Menu icon until the screen automatically takes you to the MENU.

6.Scroll down to SERVICE and select it.

7.In SERVICE, select SETTINGS.

8.In SETTINGS, you’ll see DL AUTONOM. The setting should be OFF, so just press the OFF to change it to ON or vice-versa.

9.Press the On / Off switch underneath the top tube to exit this menu.

10.You’re done.

View attachment 36503

I was going to do that (turn off the day light) but I’m on my second Magura break lever and this one no longer activates the service menu or the regenerative breaking. It’s the same problem I had with the first. I figure it would be cheaper/easier to disconnect than pay for a new one at $170.

Thanks for the feedback.