Handlebars and seats

[kenleerevalee]

I just got my e bike and love it. I would like to change the handlebars from Mt bike type to cruiser handlebars. Has anyone tried it?
I also have a problem with the seat nose because it becomes too uncomfortable getting off and on, I replaced it a noseless seat but still would like a bigger more comfortable seat.
Any suggestions? My bike is an Ecotric Power Sport folding fat tire, 48v

 

[Buzzardmeat]

I just bought a similar set of bars, except mine are 10" pullback apehangers with a 1 inch diameter. The problem I'm having now is locating a throttle that is larger than 7/8 inch diameter. I haven't been able to located one. So I would suggest your search for bars be for 7/8 inch. Good luck.

 

[PedalUma]

@kenleerevalee, I do this sort of thing regularly. Measure the HB diameter at the stem of the bar before you order. Take a look at the Bikesmart Poshterior saddle. Everyone loves it. It is open at the middle, is filled with gel and has springs. @Buzzardmeat, do you see any throttles that are two-part, that could work. Or use a Topeak versamout to a 7/8 section of pipe.

 

[Buzzardmeat]

Yeah. I agree. I was just now thinking about the versamount or similar short bar attachment, but only as a last resort. I might also grab a few throttles and experiment. Maybe try reaming out the ID.

It's hard to believe the throttles are only available fir 7/8" bars. It looks like there's an opportunity for someone to provide a product. I don't want to get into mass production but I might just have to.

 

[PedalUma]

Yeah. I agree. I was just now thinking about the versamount or similar short bar attachment, but only as a last resort. I might also grab a few throttles and experiment. Maybe try reaming out the ID.

It's hard to believe the throttles are only available fir 7/8" bars. It looks like there's an opportunity for someone to provide a product. I don't want to get into mass production but I might just have to.

Reaming it out, grinding and polishing would take a half-hour. It is an eight-inch of soft Al. Even a bastard file would make short work of it.

 

[PedalUma]

To keep things flowing old-timers use the like button. The prize is getting a laugh. It takes more effort to make someone smile.

 

[Buzzardmeat]

The other option was to shorten the throttle side of the handlebar (cut off about 6 inches) and then machine a length of pipe to fit inside the handlebar.

I was just checking out handlebar extentions and don't really care to use that as my option.

 

[PedalUma]

That sounds like a pain. I would rather mill the throttle and keep the balance of the HB. You do know that you can ghost pedal these bikes. A throttle is not really necessary. They have a cadence sensor. If you move the pedals about 1/4 turn then you can pedal super slowly and without any pedal effort and the bike will go full speed ahead. I make bikes like this. The second one is all through frame. On the red you can see the white wire to the motor from the battery. I chop off all connectors. Click zoom on the red cargo at the HB.

 

[Buzzardmeat]

With a cadence sensor, you mention 1/4 turn initiates power. Is this the only control? It doesn't sound too safe to me. Not having tried this I'm skeptical of it being potentially too slow OR too fast. But yes, I do see your point as a possible option. This is my first ebike. My experience is with motorcycles. But you sure have provided great insights here my friend. And I do think I will try the reaming first. I do prefer a throttle control with no other, such as cadence or torgue sensor. The motor I purchased is the AM International 1500w for a 26 inch wheel, and a 48v 20ah 40a battery. I wanted to go with a mid drive but thec1000w Bafang was $500 more than what I bought. It's all in the learning stages too.

Thank you

 

[Buzzardmeat]

It looks like you're running a mid drive but I don't recognize the brand.

 

[Buzzardmeat]

Oh, by the way, here's my bike so far. I've got the triangular battery and the rear wheel is still in transit.
Those handlebars are being replaced with 10" pullback apes.

 

[PedalUma]

@Buzzardmeat, at first I thought that more was more, before I learned better. But it is all about getting to the Zen Garden of less. I typically use 350W nominal mid-drives with peeks at 720 for low power bleed-out and maximum feel. While putting the 'throttle' in the pedal like an electric car, Tesla. Push foot and go. Intuitive, natural. No lag or surge. Immediate acceleration. Without the 1/4 turn. And not like running your brother-in-law's Corvette in only third gear at every light and big hill or corner. Hub motors are not run through any drive gears. They are one speed motors, stuck like at truck stuck, always in third. They are slow off the line, lug and burn out on sustained climbs. Congrats on your first build. Putting a toe in the pool is good. 150 is twice the legal limit and will be heavy, it will fry and will die with big legal problems when someone gets hurt. Accidents happen. These types are not allowed in bike lanes, or bike paths or in parks. Mopeds like this are unlawful, unless registered and insured as a licensed motorcycles. They are also not that much fun with the lag, surge and lurch and lack of feel. The power drain sucks with these, bigtime. You will find out more as you get up on the individual learning curve we each go through as builders. This is a first build to start on that curve.

 

[Buzzardmeat]

My initial hope from the beginning was/is to buy a bafang 750 or 1000 watt mid drive but I didn't have the added $500. I need to get mobile now for the summer and now plan to save up for the mid drive. I'm on SSI with very limited funds.

As far as hub burnout my next purchase is about $100 for hubsinks and statorade ferrofluid.