Handlebar Width? How Critical?

[Prairie Dog]

I just cut my 800 mm bars down to 700. That's pretty much a 4 inch reduction and I like them a lot more. I've had the bike for nearly a month now and just did not like the look or the ergonomics of the super wide bars. When I put the GP5 grips on I liked em even less. To me they look and feel so much better now.

I cut down the bars on two of my bikes, a Scott Metrix and most recently the CF bar on my Trek 970. Both are around 660 mm and sport end grips. I’ve never been accustomed to the longer bars that are so common now and seeing that I currently have my eye on a Trance which comes with a 780 mm bar, I would certainly contemplate doing the same albeit perhaps not so drastic. Good to hear that you're happy with the outcome.

 

[RandallS]

With GP2s on, my bars feel too wide, so I think I'll take 20mm off each side to start with. I suspect tht i will likely end up taking more.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I cannot understand all of this quandary Two of my e-bikes are equipped with 680mm handlebars, the third one has the 780 mm bars. All are equipped with Ergon grips. And al thesel e-bikes feel so comfy to me. Randall, reconsider shortening your bars: these are so wide because you can manoeuvre (what a difficult word to memorise!) your e-MTB easier...

 

[RandallS]

I need to narrow the bars a bit as I've really aggravated my hands and wrists riding on the packed snow. That, plus the shoulder issue, has me using the extreme inside of the grips and negating the ergonomic wings.

I really think the GP2 horns are too far apart to be comfortable and by taking 20mm off each side, i will achieve a better hand position. I hve no intention of going as narrow as some people hve done, but I'm definitely too wide now. I tend to be pretty conservative and try different things before I get the saw out. This shoulder isn't helping on the comfort either.

 

[Prairie Dog]

Here’s a fresh take on bar width. Even the pros appear to be whittling their bars down.

https://www.pinkbike.com/news/handlebar-width-vs-handling-are-your-bars-too-wide.html

The uni-cycle bars at the end of the vid blow my mind.

 

[FlatSix911]

Here’s a fresh take on bar width. Even the pros appear to be whittling their bars down.

https://www.pinkbike.com/news/handlebar-width-vs-handling-are-your-bars-too-wide.html

The uni-cycle bars at the end of the vid blow my mind.

Great article... thanks for sharing.

Why Down-Sizing Makes Sense: Balance and flow

Once you know something, you can't un-know it. Most of us have adapted to rider-forward geometry by now, and it's doubtful that we'll forget to stay over the front end. So, unless you prefer the widest bar you can ride, downsizing can further improve your handling. The attack position that exaggerated bar widths create naturally tightens up your body, which isn't always helpful. Also consider that wider bars require faster and broader steering inputs to make minor corrections. Slicing off as little as ten millimeters can improve steering precision, and give you more freedom to move the bike around while negotiating technical sections. Plus, you'll be better balanced when your upper body is decoupled from lateral forces.

Stable geometry is another factor that has reduced the need for massive widths. Custom offsets, mid-stroke suspension support, and slack head tube angles have reduced the workload necessary to pilot a bike. DH bikes can straight-line sections that competitors once picked their way down and trail bikes are not far behind them. Corrected geometry makes it feel like modern bikes have power steering.

Sliding a pair of lock-on grips inboard is a non-destructive method to experiment with handlebar widths.

 

[AHicks]

Great article... thanks for sharing.

Why Down-Sizing Makes Sense: Balance and flow

Once you know something, you can't un-know it. Most of us have adapted to rider-forward geometry by now, and it's doubtful that we'll forget to stay over the front end. So, unless you prefer the widest bar you can ride, downsizing can further improve your handling. The attack position that exaggerated bar widths create naturally tightens up your body, which isn't always helpful. Also consider that wider bars require faster and broader steering inputs to make minor corrections. Slicing off as little as ten millimeters can improve steering precision, and give you more freedom to move the bike around while negotiating technical sections. Plus, you'll be better balanced when your upper body is decoupled from lateral forces.

Stable geometry is another factor that has reduced the need for massive widths. Custom offsets, mid-stroke suspension support, and slack head tube angles have reduced the workload necessary to pilot a bike. DH bikes can straight-line sections that competitors once picked their way down and trail bikes are not far behind them. Corrected geometry makes it feel like modern bikes have power steering.

Sliding a pair of lock-on grips inboard is a non-destructive method to experiment with handlebar widths.
View attachment 77894

Love the idea of cutting just once, so I really like the idea of placing the grips inboard, or wherever you feel like trying them really, prior to cutting! Great idea!

Have a history of sore wrists during the latter part of my rides, so I decided to try a set of "pulled back" handlebars. Worked like a charm....

Amazon.com : UPANBIKE Urban Road Bike Bicycle Retro Handlebar 31.8mm Moustache Shape Wide 640mm : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : UPANBIKE Urban Road Bike Bicycle Retro Handlebar 31.8mm Moustache Shape Wide 640mm : Sports & Outdoors

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[ChezCheese:)]

As I mentioned on another thread, I had my handlebars cut down 1.5" /3.8cm on each side. Still wider than 10speed drop handlebars of old, but a lot easier to get through the door. Most importantly, much better for my shoulders. Feels a lot better. If you think your handlebars may be too wide, they probably are. More in-line with your shoulders is better.

 

[reed scott]

I spose not many have a plumber's tube/pipe cutter in their tool box but these things make cutting bars child's play. Makes a perfect neat cut as well. A little reaming of the left over internal burr is necessary.

 

[Prairie Dog]

I spose not many have a plumber's tube/pipe cutter in their tool box but these things make cutting bars child's play. Makes a perfect neat cut as well. A little reaming of the left over internal burr is necessary.

I would feel okay cutting an alloy bar with a pipe cutter but it isn't as easy with a carbon fiber bar due to the strands. I've used one as a guide to score CF bars in the past and then completed the cut with my Dremel and a diamond cutting wheel. BTW, I always wear a mask when cutting CF.

 

[Prairie Dog]

Well, it's been almost a month since I trimmed the Trance’s bars and I have absolutely no regrets in doing so. In fact, it’s made a huge difference in my ability to negotiate tight spaces and turns on single- track runs. Steering precision has greatly improved. I don’t feel any less stable in any given situation even on long downhill runs. I’ve also stuck with traditional lock on MTB grips ( Ergon GA2s) for this bike rather than going with bar ends as I felt they might get hung up on obstacles during my rides.

I did manage to ride with the stock lock on grips inboard for a week until I felt comfortable trimming the bars to 700 mm total width which was down from the stock 780mm. I used a pipe cutter as @reed scott suggested and it worked out perfectly on the alloy bars.

If you’re sitting on the fence with respect to cutting the bars on your ride, I would suggest using the inboard grip technique first before you take a hacksaw to it. It confirmed my decision without hesitation.

 

[Nomad]

now if someone would come up with a formula for determining the optimal bar width based on rider and bike and use. As far as what feels right it just doesn't quite cover it.

 

[6zfshdb]

For me anyway, the formula is simple. The bars have to be long enough to be able to attach all the controls yet short enough so they fit between the traffic stanchions.

Unfortunately for me, rider comfort doesn't figure into it.

 

[Haystacks]

height in cm x 4.4=bar width

 

[RandallS]

height in cm x 4.4=bar width

Sounds good as a general rule. Then factor in some other geometry to fine tune. That formula has me with 750mm bars, but I've left mine at 780 for comfort as i have very wide shoulders. At least for now, but I've been riding my Fathom mostly that way since I got it. I went back to more normal grips, GA2s from the GP2s as mentioned above in this thread. Last weekend I was out with a "soon to be" ebike convert, and while he was riding my Fathom, i was riding my old bike at 650 (completely different style of bike) and it felt a bit strange to say the least.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

height in cm x 4.4=bar width

Especially on a road bike.
Or, on a downhill MTB.

 

[tomjasz]

WOW!
I was curious and sure enough, Google for the win.
Side note, I've worked support lines for 6 years, and many if not most inquiries can be answered by doing due diligence and making Google the first stop.

 

[tomjasz]

I built out a Zizzo folder and dumped the bike twice. The narrow handlebars make the steering geometry really touchy.

 

[RandallS]

WOW!
I was curious and sure enough, Google for the win.
Side note, I've worked support lines for 6 years, and many if not most inquiries can be answered by doing due diligence and making Google the first stop.

Superb! Thanks for sharing

 

[tomjasz]

now if someone would come up with a formula for determining the optimal bar width based on rider and bike and use. As far as what feels right it just doesn't quite cover it.

Mountain Bike Handlebar Width Calculator - Bike Faff

Simply determine your ideal mountain bike handlebar width, by your height and riding style. With our mountain bike handlebar width calculator.

bikefaff.com