Fresh battery performance

sdtr443w

New Member
I recently installed a spare battery on my trike. It claims to be 48V 17.5Ah whereas its brother battery is 48V 10.5Ah. This isn't the most scientific numbers, but over a span that drains the old battery 10%, the new battery drained roughly 20%. This was from the initial charging. Is this something that improves over some charge/discharge cycles? I thought I saw that somewhere but I hoped to get a confirmation.
 
Please post more information on the specs and maker of the new Battery.
 
I recently installed a spare battery on my trike. It claims to be 48V 17.5Ah whereas its brother battery is 48V 10.5Ah. This isn't the most scientific numbers, but over a span that drains the old battery 10%, the new battery drained roughly 20%. This was from the initial charging. Is this something that improves over some charge/discharge cycles? I thought I saw that somewhere but I hoped to get a confirmation.
Yes best performance happens after a few cycles.
 
Is the second battery new or did you buy it used? Is it the same brand as the original?
Some higher capacity 48V batteries, such as the rectangular Pedego's, are actually 52V. If this is the case, unless your charger is rated at 52V, you will not get a full charge.
 
It's a UnitPackPower battery. Not one of the major guys but apparently recommended by EBikeSchool. I found out I was pretty constrained by dimensions. The bike is an Evelo Compass and they sell a spare 10.5Ah battery online... for $800. I don't think the one I have from them is a name brand either. So I took the plunge there. I was pretty sure the battery is supposed to improve after a few cycles but I was checking in before I drill some holes in the mounting plate and commit to it.
 
It's a UnitPackPower battery. Not one of the major guys but apparently recommended by EBikeSchool. I found out I was pretty constrained by dimensions. The bike is an Evelo Compass and they sell a spare 10.5Ah battery online... for $800. I don't think the one I have from them is a name brand either. So I took the plunge there. I was pretty sure the battery is supposed to improve after a few cycles but I was checking in before I drill some holes in the mounting plate and commit to it.
Can you mount it temporarily...heavy duty plastic ties or something?
BTW $800 is very spend y for a 10.5 ah battery, is it special somehow I paid $475 for a 48v 21 ah triangle battery, and I found it for $100 less online.(also a unit pac power battery).
 
It's a UnitPackPower battery.
We sold them with a one year warranty for over two years. We had many failed batteries that we had to refund purchases on, over 5%, and with really awful nonexistent support from UPP. We ate THOUSANDS of dollars. I do have several that have been OK for me but their fail rates, build quality, and materials used are poor. Providing some data on voltages sure would help. otherwise, this is just all hot air. I'd happily help, but need more information. Do you have a multimeter? If not get a cheap "self ranging" "auto power off". Support needs data!

I'm surprised Micah Ebikeschool recommended. I'd sure like to see where and give him a call to sort...
 
Would I just measure the voltage across the two terminals when disconnected or what? I have it zip-tied down for some experiments and I still have the Anderson connectors exposed. I didn't wrap them up yet. So I can try some stuff there.

Can you mount it temporarily...heavy duty plastic ties or something?
BTW $800 is very spend y for a 10.5 ah battery, is it special somehow I paid $475 for a 48v 21 ah triangle battery, and I found it for $100 less online.(also a unit pac power battery).

Yeah $800 was crazy which is why I was looking at alternatives. The most limiting issue is that my mounting form factor is similar to under-rack mounts. The Evelo Compass can mount a pair of batteries in the back on opposite sides of each other. The frame really limits how tall and wide they can be (and depth to some lesser extent).
 
Would I just measure the voltage across the two terminals when disconnected or what? I have it zip-tied down for some experiments and I still have the Anderson connectors exposed. I didn't wrap them up yet. So I can try some stuff there.
That would be helpful. You’re not running the batteries in parallel? Wired together?
 
Both battery go into a device that joins them and transmits a single connection to the controller.

I'm pretty sure it's actually this thing:

It came with the bike so I didn't personally order it. I'm running the battery through it just like the original, first one. However, I have the first battery disabled (flicked off) so it's drawing exclusively from the new battery.

I'll take some measurements over time and see if I can infer anything from it.
 
I disconnected the Anderson connectors and measured the side going to the battery and just got something like 0.04V. Am I supposed to intercept the voltage while it's operating?

It's the only battery I have on-line; it won't turn on when disconnected, but I turn it on and ride fine with it. So I don't think it's actually outright dead or anything. My multimeter reads other voltages fine from these probes across a variety of modes, and it normally reports a consistent 0.00V. It taking that slight little rise implies to me some solid-state thing in the way. I'm measuring from the end of the battery coming out to power the bike.
 
I guess I'm confused. A UPP battery should turn on even if not connected. Is it a Shark case? AKA Hailong.
You're testing the Anderson PP directly from the battery?
 
Did you buy a rack battery similar to what Evelo uses? Which one?
Thanks, harryS I got lazy and didn't run down the bike he has. However, I did get a UPP rack battery for a friend's build. It turns on when disconnected. Maybe they changed the design? Or BMS? It would seem there SHOULD be a third and or 4th wire if it communicated with the eBike controls?
 
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I just have two wires.

Also regarding the generic Chinese issue here: I had assumed I was going to wind up with that unless I paid for an Evelo one--which also appears to actually be a Chinese generic battery--that was $800 and only 10.5Ah. These are those kind of thing under-rack batteries that I don't think are really en vogue any more. So my issue is with confirming that I should worry (yet) or if it came as a dud.

A dubious thing I can try is to get some loose cable in the contacts with the connectors and measure that while it's on (I hope I don't have to engage the motor to really see). Not my idea of a good time but some precautions ahead of time will protect me from causing a short.
 
I just have two wires.

Also regarding the generic Chinese issue here: I had assumed I was going to wind up with that unless I paid for an Evelo one--which also appears to actually be a Chinese generic battery--that was $800 and only 10.5Ah. These are those kind of thing under-rack batteries that I don't think are really en vogue any more. So my issue is with confirming that I should worry (yet) or if it came as a dud.

A dubious thing I can try is to get some loose cable in the contacts with the connectors and measure that while it's on (I hope I don't have to engage the motor to really see). Not my idea of a good time but some precautions ahead of time will protect me from causing a short.
If you're trying to check the voltage on your battery, just set you meter to the desired voltage range and insert the probes of the meter into the corresponding color terminals on the battery. You should get a reading, if not, try turning the battery on, if no reading, check your charger and re-charge the battery.
 
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