I myself would like to move the 19.5 mph limit on my Haibike up to around 23 mph yet keep hearing that moving the sensor to detect the crank rather than the wheel has several potential drawbacks including an incorrect speed reading, possible loss of parts, possible overheating motor and the potential that it causes some models to stop working. I am symied as to why the author of the original post not shown any concern for the downside of this method, instead of devoting his/her time to defending that original post content as written.
Free tuning method.
- Thread starter RoadWrinkle
- Start date
? He didn't show much concern because he didn't believe there were many downsides beyond those he discussed. His cheap hack accomplished the same effect as some very expensive dongles, which was the point of his OP.
If you install a dongle, you're creating many of the same potential issues as the cheap hack, but also spending a lot more money and time doing so. If I owned a speed-limited Euro bike, one of the very first things I'd do is try the OP's hack.
Yikes...installing a dongle may not be the way to go either but I was addressing his hack. I have not the time to campaign for its removal so I will move on. Thanks for your response.
Ah, well, misunderstood your desire to remove the posts. It's not like not talking about dongles will make them disappear. Let people make their own - informed - judgements.
Luv2ride
Active Member
I have a Trek XM 700 and a Trek Supercommuter, both bikes are tuned with the bike speed dongle from the first week I owned them. I ride safely and respectfully.
I don't often go over 28, but both bikes would start to lose power at about 26 mph and some of the rides I do with my road bike friends require me to go a bit faster or get dropped in a group ride.
I really love that I can get support for as much work that I put in. Just because the motor does not shut down does not mean that I don't have to pedal and it is pretty hard to go over 28 except when adding a lot of my own effort.
I have 8000 miles on the XM and 10,700 on the SC with 0 problems associated to the motor or batteries. I have replaced chains, brake pads, rotors and a cassette. I also occasionally drop my chain on the SC for some unknown reason even with the clutch engaged on the derailler, wish I could get a chain catcher like on my road bike.
I still have the original tires on both bikes as well, but I have had a few flats.
I don't often go over 28, but both bikes would start to lose power at about 26 mph and some of the rides I do with my road bike friends require me to go a bit faster or get dropped in a group ride.
I really love that I can get support for as much work that I put in. Just because the motor does not shut down does not mean that I don't have to pedal and it is pretty hard to go over 28 except when adding a lot of my own effort.
I have 8000 miles on the XM and 10,700 on the SC with 0 problems associated to the motor or batteries. I have replaced chains, brake pads, rotors and a cassette. I also occasionally drop my chain on the SC for some unknown reason even with the clutch engaged on the derailler, wish I could get a chain catcher like on my road bike.
I still have the original tires on both bikes as well, but I have had a few flats.
I have a Brose T mid-drive on a hardtail cross, which the interstate supplier suggested a Badass de-restrictor, as I have a smashed ankle and other severe injuries from a car accident 18 years ago and I wanted to ride faster than 25 km/hr on Australian long roads and trails. At the time I did not know the warranty was voided and did not care, for the E-bike just gave me a permanent grin and less ankle pain than regular bikes and off road was not an option.
After 4,000 km of fun and getting to work on time in my 50's, a whirring noise began intermittently and by 5,000 it is constant. I took the Badass box off today and the noise has gone for now, except under extreme off road climbs, despite high cadence and correct gear ratios (I hope). I wonder how much wear and tear I have done to the belt firstly and then to the nylon gears? If the damage is done and the warranty is void, I will have to take it on the chin and hurt my wallet.
After 4,000 km of fun and getting to work on time in my 50's, a whirring noise began intermittently and by 5,000 it is constant. I took the Badass box off today and the noise has gone for now, except under extreme off road climbs, despite high cadence and correct gear ratios (I hope). I wonder how much wear and tear I have done to the belt firstly and then to the nylon gears? If the damage is done and the warranty is void, I will have to take it on the chin and hurt my wallet.
Last edited:
Woodcutters Son
New Member
Thanks roadwrinkle this worked a treat. 25km seems to be where I spend quite a bit of time on my Fantic XF. It's a lot smoother now. Maybe this takes strain off the motor if its not switching off and on all time.......
Old post but I just thought I might add all ebike motors gears and bearings go bad. It is a lil motor and easy to work on.
If you can do car brakes and bearings and mechanical bike repair you can certainly do these. As long as the circuit boards and wiring is still good. Again, not that hard if you have any mechanical aptitude. Rebuilding a suspension fork is much harder.
Similar threads
