Fixing up 2004 Electric Bike - Charger!

[RunForTheHills]

A go cart chain wouldn't be compatible with the sprocket used on a Nexus hub. It is hard to tell what the chainring looks like, but I would be really surprised if they didn't use standard bicycle components for wear and tear items like the chain and sprockets.

 

[hoboin]

There are 2 chains, one is for the shimano nexus internal hub, and the other is a smaller sized chain for the motor, so 2 total chains.
This is an old photo but you can see the chain top right is the motor chain, while the bottom left, and very top left is the shimano chain.

 

[RunForTheHills]

Yeah, that one doesn't look like a bicycle chain.

 

[EMGX]

View attachment 87632 View attachment 87633G

Good job on this bike!
Do you know what caused the chain to break? It looks like it is in good condition.
I agree with you that a #25 roller chain looks like the right size.
Check this out

Roller Chain Size Chart With Dimensions & Specifications

This comprehensive roller chain size chart simplifies the process of finding the perfect fit for your roller chain needs, providing complete dimensions and specifications.

www.usarollerchain.com

how long is the chain? I see you can buy 10ft lengths for $15, or just buy some master links to repair the chain you have (I'd buy the chain that comes with a couple master links)
Not sure if a regular bike chain tool will work, maybe take the chain to a bike shop to see what they say (and buy the tool from them if it does work).

Different looking chain tool

How To Cut Roller Chain The Right Way - USA Roller Chain

Learn the basics of how to safely and effectively cut chain or break roller chains provided by USA Roller Chain and Sprockets. Read now to learn to break roller chains correctly.

www.usarollerchain.com

 

[hoboin]

Thanks for the reply! i called the local bike shop, but they said they didn't have them and couldn't help. The chain was a bit rusted in some parts, it is 40 inches long. I had road the bike for about 2-5 miles testing it out, it hasnt been used ever, and the chain broke as i was slowly going over a wood 4x4 post used as a parking spot between road and dirt, i don't remember the chain hitting the piece of wood but it may have.

Right now the chain is sitting in evaporust and to me it honestly looks good besides the broken link. Yes the tool needed is not the standard bike tool, you are right on that. I am probably going to buy the tool for sure, and probably just replace the chain too.

 

[hoboin]

Also an update about other things and a question. Everything seems to be running really great except for a purring like noise only when pedaling. It's like a very very rapid clicking noise, not loud at all, that's why i would call it purring, and the speed of the clicking is almost like a purr. Only when pedaling.

I did clean the original bike chain which was rusted in certain points, i bought 3-in-1 oil to clean the rust off and spent a very long time squeezing the chain while holding microfiber cloth. After it was mostly clean and i wasn't getting much dirt on the cloth i swtiched to triflow lubricant and since all that the shifting has been really good. Not really seeing the erratic shifting at the 2nd gear. Only thing i'm hearing is the noise while pedaling. I am going to go out on a first longish ride today. I don't think the noise is too bad but i could be wrong.

Thanks all to everyone who has helped along the way. I am really amazed that this bike works as well as it does after sitting in an unfinished and partially exposed basement for 15 years. I feel like i have a very unique electric bike, i don't think many have this and it seems to be pretty good.

 

[hoboin]

Just went out for a 6 mile ride without the motor, so no power obviously and it was a lot of fun. Front brakes started to make a wobbling like sound after awhile so I don't know what that's about. Got some nice photos of the bad boy!! Slightly edited.

 

[hoboin]

i was able to get the new roller chain on the bike, what a pain. I had to remove the wheel in order to get it on. Now, because i had to unhook the rear brakes and cables for the shifter, when i reconnected it all the shifting is VERY tight towards the high numbers and the cable is very very tight coming out of the brake handle area, i can't adjust it it's so tight. Any suggestions? I can't get higher than 4th or 5th gear

 

[hoboin]

This is how it looks in 4th gear and I can't figure out how to align the red , it's too hard to shift into 6th or 7th I feel like I will break something. Any suggestions? I feel like I didn't place the nut near the end of cable back in right

 

[hoboin]

Hey all i thought i would give an update. I found a guy who specializes in bike repairs near my office and i brought it over to him, and he was able to solve my problems. Sadly he forgot to give me back the banjo bolt that was on the right side of the rear wheel that connects to the axle and allows for the wheel to be pushed or pulled in order to tighten the chain slightly . Now i'm having problems with the bike chain becoming loose very quickly. I have to disconnect the brake cable, shifting cable and brake from frame and pull the wheel back to tighten the bike chain, and i'm able to do that but after i ride for a few minutes the chain goes back to being loose. I feel like i'm pulling the wheel back to make it tight but the bike, after riding it, pulls the wheel to loosen it. Also the motor chain keeps becoming lose, but i can easily tighten that with a nut, and in a manual on the bike it mentions if it keeps happening that i should apply lock-tight to the motor chain but i'm not ready to do that, i'm trying to figure out the bike chain first. Any suggestions?

I have been on the bike for about 60 miles in the last week, just trying to get back into biking and seeing what features in an electric bike i would want. This charger bike has been really great, i'm trying to get it fixed up and maybe i won't have to buy a new electric bike and i could use this one.

 

[hoboin]

i read the manual and the banjo washer is pretty important, there needs to be 2 washers and the copper fitted bolt and since i am missing the banjo washer i am down a washer basically so that makes sense. Anyone know of another name for banjo washer? It's the washer with nut and bolt that is closest to the shifting cable/nut in the above photo. I can't seem to find it by googling' "banjo washer" but that is what the manual calls it, from late 1990's earlly 2000.

 

[RunForTheHills]

Can't you go back to the shop and get the part from the guy who worked on it?

 

[RunForTheHills]

I have never heard the term "banjo washer", but is this the part?

https://www.amazon.com/CyclingDeal-...ocphy=9031462&hvtargid=pla-945667385245&psc=1

 

[hoboin]

exactly that, thank you. I will go back to him, but this guy was a bycle hoarder and i bet he lost it lol. I will try to go there tomorrow but incase it's lost i want to be able to buy some. The manual calls it banjo washer and the bike comes with only 1 on the chain side and the manual also mentions that only one is needed.

 

[hoboin]

Here is another update. after getting the washers in order and adjusting it a few times, my cable tension on both cables is pretty consistently tight and that is a great thing, little adjustments after rides now. I bought a wired velo computer to monitor speed and mileage and I've been about 200 miles. Major car problems got me to use this to ride to work 4 times this week and I've never been happier, also I have lost 10lbs in the last few weeks. There is nothing like being outdoors and just riding around with no care. Thanks everyone for all the help.

 

[RunForTheHills]

Major car problems got me to use this to ride to work 4 times this week and I've never been happier, also I have lost 10lbs in the last few weeks. There is nothing like being outdoors and just riding around with no care.

That's what I need to do. Unfortunately I have been working from home the past couple of years and I have slacked off on exercise the last six months or so.

 

[hoboin]

i added something very important to the charger today. Hopefully it will stay on for a long time!

 

[hoboin]

I just came across a website talking about my bike, the Charger, having a 12 volt plug in to allow for lights to put installed and i would love to get this going. One of the more annoying things is having to charge the bike lights, so if i can hook up a front and rear light i think that would be awesome. I am just confused on what i can use, and what i need to get something connected. Here is what i found about this:

Electric Bikes - Electric-Bikes.com

www.electric-bikes.com

Mounted on the board is a 12-volt light port (as mentioned in the Shop Manual that comes with the Charger bike). Use a size N coaxial power plug (5.5mm O.D. x 2.5mm I.D.) to plug into the port. Any 12-volt headlight (and/or tail light) up to 20 watts will work. A Malibu garden light works well. When the PIN is keyed in and the Charger system powers up, this port becomes active. Put a switch on your headlight (or on the wire) to turn off the light when not needed.

I can't easily find a N coaxial power plug online, anyone have any idea? Also on the same website i saw someone talking about over riding the 20mph cut off that the bike has. Basically it will stop assisting after you reach 20mph and someone figured out how to use a magnet and reposition the sensor to let it keep working over 20mph. I am wondering if i should try this out, only if it will help me climb hills. Seems like it could? When im trying to build up speed before a hill im thinking if it could get pushing i could have more momentum or am i wrong in this thinking? I love the charger bike but my biggest limitation is climbing hills, i do not really want the extra speed but it could be nice.

Here's how one user overrides the Charger's 20-mph limit (and goes up to 28mph):
1) Move the speed sensor on the left chainstay toward the front and pointing outward.
2) Stick a magnet to the inside of the left pedal crank near the pedal.
3) Align the speed sensor with the magnet on the pedal crank so the controller still senses rotation but never sees "20 mph".
Using this trick, a moderate cyclist reports:
"The modification to increase top speed was painless and really makes this the ideal bike for my needs. Depending on winds, I can comfortably cruise at speeds approaching 24 mph."

Also here is another update. Almost 700 miles, i used a car once the entire month of June, biking to work 4 times a week with a total daily commute of 16 miles and i often do an extra 4 miles for fun at the end of the day. I LOVE the milk crate on the back, and i will be installing a front rack soon so i can put another crate or basket there. I replaced my bull horns with my older bull horns that were on my mountain bike. These are not as sturdy as the other ones, they are mostly made of plastic but with soft grip at the top and much larger, i feel VERY comfortable with these compared to my old bull horns even though i know they arent as strong. I can lightly wrest my wrists on the top of it when im casually riding which i really like. I found a cooler i had that fit the basket perfectly, it's a 50 can cooler and it works to keep my groceries from getting hot in 90+ degree weather.

 

[RunForTheHills]

Maybe this one?

https://www.amazon.com/Size-Coaxial-Power-Plug-2-Pack/dp/B071KQBD6N

MTA: Make sure you use a multimeter to check the voltage out of the connector before you connect your lights to it.

 

[hoboin]

I haven't had time to mess with the lights yet, in Virginia it was really hot this week and I am having a problem with the bike not working later in the day after I come home from work, or right when I'm getting home and climbing the largest hills. The bike gives error code of not being able to read the sensor. I try my hardest to reposition the sensor or magnet but nothing works. Only solution is to keep it off and the next morning it goes back to working perfectly.

My guess is the motor is over heating and it's not the sensor that is not communicating. Anyone have any thoughts? Going to email the guy who sells them next.