First ride with the Archon X1 upgrade!

have the 2300W version but don't really use it. Most of my riding is in Eco PAS 1 (feels like 250W nominal) and if I'm tired I will bump it up to 2 (approx 500W nominal). Very infrequently I will bump it up to 3 (guessing 750W nominal, can't tell as display only shows up to 750W). I suspect most users will be fine with the 1000W version. I will go out on a limb and say the 750W version is probably more than enough. First thing I will do when I get the programming is set up a street legal profile. I don't really like the liability implications of a 1000W or 2300W setup riding around town to the extent I'm not really using it, but buying the 2300W version gives you options if you decide you want more for any specific use.

Edit: after my ride today it seems PAS 1 is closer to 350W nominal as if I push hard enough I can see it peaking at 700W. PAS 2 is probably closer to 700W nominal and PAS 3 1000W+.
 
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TomD said:
I have the 2300W version but don't really use it. Most of my riding is in Eco PAS 1 (feels like 250W nominal) and if I'm tired I will bump it up to 2 (approx 500W nominal). Very infrequently I will bump it up to 3 (guessing 750W nominal, can't tell as display only shows up to 750W). I suspect most users will be fine with the 1000W version. I will go out on a limb and say the 750W version is probably more than enough. First thing I will do when I get the programming is set up a street legal profile. I don't really like the liability implications of a 1000W or 2300W setup riding around town to the extent I'm not really using it, but buying the 2300W version gives you options if you decide you want more for any specific use.
Click to expand...


Thank you so much for that. Settles my mind.
 
reed scott

I think that TomD has got the 2300 watt version, but I may be wrong. I have the 1000 watt one. (lol Tom replied at the same time )
I run a XT 11 speed cassette but would run SLX and with a Ebike spec kmc chain.
I get 400 - 500 miles from the chain and 800 - 1000 miles from the cassette.
I would not use a cheaper cassette than the SLX because the cheaper ones use a steel carrier which can bite into the freehub body because of the large amounts of torque produced, SLX and XT use a alloy carrier which is softer and does not cause damage.
I expect it is a similar story with SRAM.
The Archon smooths the power curve so it actually is better on your drivetrain than stock I have found, and tbh my lower powered bike with 10 speed componants lasts about the same distance.
 
TomW said:
reed scott

I think that TomD has got the 2300 watt version, but I may be wrong. I have the 1000 watt one.
I run a XT 11 speed cassette but would run SLX and with a Ebike spec kmc chain.
I get 400 - 500 miles from the chain and 800 - 1000 miles from the cassette.
I would not use a cheaper cassette than the SLX because the cheaper ones use a steel carrier which can bite into the freehub body because of the large amounts of torque produced, SLX and XT use a alloy carrier which is softer and does not cause damage.
I expect it is a similar story with SRAM.
The Archon smooths the power curve so it actually is better on your drivetrain than stock I have found, and tbh my lower powered bike with 10 speed componants lasts about the same distance.
Click to expand...

Thank YOU as well. Good info. I had never heard that about steel carrier on aluminum freehub body. Makes perfect sense. 👍
 
:) I only new about the cassette thing because I cheaped out and used a Deore cassette on my lower powered Focus and chewed up a Reynolds Freehub. It was a bstard to remove because the splines were all burred and acting like a twist lock, With a bit of forcefull jiggling I removed it after a while and Fixed the freehub with a bit of filing and never went cheap again.
 
Need to find my chain checker but so far so good at 1000 miles on my Frey CC. Mostly street use though, and roughly half of that with the Archon X1.
 
In the UK with our famous wet weather, cassettes and chains get really beaten up quickly even on road, the water, mud, grid just acts like natures grinding paste, it also strips all lube from the set up on every ride.
Because I use my bike for the work commute no matter the weather and a bit slack on cleaning and relubing daily I am a worst case scenario :) I get more range out of them in dry conditions.
 
TomD said:
have the 2300W version but don't really use it. Most of my riding is in Eco PAS 1 (feels like 250W nominal) and if I'm tired I will bump it up to 2 (approx 500W nominal). Very infrequently I will bump it up to 3 (guessing 750W nominal, can't tell as display only shows up to 750W). I suspect most users will be fine with the 1000W version. I will go out on a limb and say the 750W version is probably more than enough. First thing I will do when I get the programming is set up a street legal profile. I don't really like the liability implications of a 1000W or 2300W setup riding around town to the extent I'm not really using it, but buying the 2300W version gives you options if you decide you want more for any specific use.

Edit: after my ride today it seems PAS 1 is closer to 350W nominal as if I push hard enough I can see it peaking at 700W. PAS 2 is probably closer to 700W nominal and PAS 3 1000W+.
Click to expand...

Interesting, so if that is true and if I need to climb some serious grade with a 70 lbs bike and a 200 pound rider, PAS 1 at 350W isn't going to help me too much, if I want to climb at the max locked speed of 20 mph we need the peak 1600 watt version in PAS 3 at the very least. So if you live in a mountainous region or you have grade in your regular commute seems like the 1000W is the minimum people should be going for.
 
This is the 2300W version. 350W nominal but 700W peak in PAS 1. it is probably half that on the 1000W version in PAS 1. You can always gear down to climb. There is no locked speed in any PAS.
 
pushkar said:
I am about to put up a landing page but here is the process

Tools -

1. Safety Ring Removal tool (updated with link from tom). Here is the Lezyne tool link
2. Park Tools ISIS Crank Puller

3. Youtube video link



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Click to expand...

I got most of this from the Brittish guy who posted his motor removal that certain WW enthusiasts must have missed before they pulled their motor. 😁 I have two questions:

1. What I have questions about is the wiring. Lots of plugs to deal with and this is what 'worries' me. Can their be a wiring tutorial or explanation?

2. Also I am unclear on this 'cable' subject. Guess this is only needed for cutting back a 2300 watt configuration to 1000 watt and for future upgrades. Does this process involve a windows computer? I'm a Mac person and have never used a windows machine. Could someone clear this up for me?
 
reed scott said:
I got most of this from the Brittish guy who posted his motor removal that certain WW enthusiasts must have missed before they pulled their motor. 😁 I have two questions:

1. What I have questions about is the wiring. Lots of plugs to deal with and this is what 'worries' me. Can their be a wiring tutorial or explanation?

2. Also I am unclear on this 'cable' subject. Guess this is only needed for cutting back a 2300 watt configuration to 1000 watt and for future upgrades. Does this process involve a windows computer? I'm a Mac person and have never used a windows machine. Could someone clear this up for me?
Click to expand...
1. Wiring is actually easier than the motor removal. I’ll add a picture but there is only one way the cables will go. Each male / female set is unique so there’s only one way the wires will go. 😀
2. I have a Mac too and you can use windows in virtual box and it should work as long as you give usb port access to the virtual machine.
 
pushkar said:
1. Wiring is actually easier than the motor removal. I’ll add a picture but there is only one way the cables will go. Each male / female set is unique so there’s only one way the wires will go. 😀
2. I have a Mac too and you can use windows in virtual box and it should work as long as you give usb port access to the virtual machine.
Click to expand...

Great. Thanks so much. 👍
 
I haev the software with me and ready to go. Cables are now in "customs" . I will send everythign out as soon as I have cables here.

So technicall y "any day now" but ... in reality ... i am laying offerings to the shipping gods each day.
 
Want to add my impressions of the new controller
just have maybe 115 miles on it so far but all i can say is WOW!!!

i was more concerned about mileage increase but the pas is soooo smooth now
huge improvement all around

charging batteries now but i seem to be more efficient

2 25-30 mile rides were 11wh and 12wh...
those were pretty fast rides for me and elev gain was 1200-1400

think i was running more like 15-16 wh before

will see how this 50 mile ride comes out after these charges tonite

Should get a few more rides in this week and will post more
 
Should have clarified that I was running maybe 14-15 wh unloaded

and I think closer to 17-19 loaded
Yesterdays ride Was 16.3 wh with 3000 elevation gain and not paying attention to how much power I was using hardly at all

That ride has some steep, long and rutted out rocky hills And required much more effort on my part with stock controller pas 4-5 green

yesterday I felt like green three was too much power for those hills, the bike just walked up it

I should add my controller is 1000 W now instead of 750

but I just think this controller uses the power better and more efficiently
 
Super interesting feedback on this..

I was wondering something. As a comparison, how would you rate the smoothness of PAS on the Archon X-1 versus a Specialized Como?
 
If this thing is in the Brose league for those variables we have the ultimate motor, that level of power and smoothness is unheard of.
 
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