PCeBiker
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Canada
I didn't read all of it. I laughed at the cat.
It probably thinks if I'm gonna put it in the oven.
There's plenty of cat and dog recipes on the internet.
It's a delicacy in China.
I didn't read all of it. I laughed at the cat.
It probably thinks if I'm gonna put it in the oven.
There's plenty of cat and dog recipes on the internet.
It's a delicacy in China.
It was not real
Canada are different from America.
These days all I care about is a numeric voltage readout. I've replaced all my displays with super simple ones that only serve as PAS panels, and show just speed, which I could do without, too.My bad.. I hadn't realized that you guys were planning lunar voyages that require down to the millivolt accuracy.
This is true but someone should be able to come up with a % state of charge gauge based on voltage that compensates for the non linear voltage drop as the battery discharges. The accuracy wouldn't be perfect but it would be far better than the gauges I've seen on many bikes.I believe those rely on past/current load as a basis and that has its flaws as well, especially when the remaining future use is not equivalent.
I use that 500A model on one of my bikes and yes, it generates very little heat. Since it barely gets warm, I removed the shunt from it's thermoplastic housing to save space:Ahh, crap!!
I didn't know that. I've already got the 500A version.
The 50A version is $10 cheaper too.
I've been thinking about how and where to install the shunt.
I was thinking inside the frame in the hollow space above the upper battery bracket where the power cable connects to the battery bracket.
View attachment 167107
I've already got two holes with grommets coming out of the hollow space. I should be able to fish the cable through the grommet?
View attachment 167110
I was wondering if I could wrap the shunt with foam rubber to protect and isolate it?
It would be difficult to screw it down or glue it to the inside of the hollow space.
I could then remove the heavy acrylic bracket from the shunt as well.
View attachment 167113
I figure that the shunt would generate very little heat because it's only seeing 20 amps and it has a resistance of almost 0 ohms.
Do have any advice on that?
I did buy a cheap 20A shunt for $4 but it might not be accurate, and it's kinda big itself at 4½" long.
View attachment 167111
I want to use the shunt that came with the digital meter because I'm pretty sure that I can plug both the digital meter and my analog ammeter into it at the same time.
I'm pretty sure that I would just connect the ammeter to the B- and P- terminals, and the digital meter would plug into the connector?
That way I can tuck the digital meter away somewhere and have it set to monitor my battery's total capacity while I have the ammeter on the handlebars for quick reference.
I use that 500A model on one of my bikes and yes, it generates very little heat. Since it barely gets warm, I removed the shunt from it's thermoplastic housing to save space:
I bolted it directly to the plastic controller housing using stainless steel washer underneath.
I don't recommend encapsulating, or mounting it in a tight space with little air flow though. Heat could build up over time.
You can try connecting your ammeter across the B- and P- terminals but without knowing the circuitry, I can't be sure if the internal resistance of the ammeter will affect the digital readout.
FWIW, by comparison, the 500A gauge seems to be just as accurate as the 50A model, even at low current levels.