Experience with Specialized Air Tool MTB Mini hand pump or CPRO2 CO2 gauge trigger?

[Jeremy McCreary]

Anyone have experience with the following Specialized tire accessories?

1. Considering the $30, 60 psi, 55 cc/stroke hand pump below for the tubeless 38 mm Pathfinder Pros on my Vado SL 1. Comes with a holder I'd mount on my currently unused top-tube bottle bosses.

Air Tool MTB Mini Pump

Small, efficient, reliable—the three key features of the Air Tool MTB Mini pump. With the inverted dual chamber design, this pump moves 20% more air per...

www.specialized.com

2. Also considering this $35 CO2 trigger with gauge. Have yet to actually use CO2, but this looks a lot more convenient than the MSW CO2 adapter I already have.

CPRO2 Gauge Trigger

The easiest way to use CO2.

www.specialized.com

Open to similarly priced alternatives. Thanks!

 

[fooferdoggie]

I dont like screw on co-2 fillers they can unscrew the core.

 

[Jeremy McCreary]

I dont like screw on co-2 fillers they can unscrew the core.

Good point. But do you know for a fact that the CPRO2 screws onto the tire valve? The product blurb doesn't say.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

1. Considering the $30, 60 psi, 55 cc/stroke hand pump below for the tubeless 38 mm Pathfinder Pros on my Vado SL 1. Comes with a holder I'd mount on my currently unused top-tube bottle bosses.

Air Tool MTB Mini Pump

Small, efficient, reliable—the three key features of the Air Tool MTB Mini pump. With the inverted dual chamber design, this pump moves 20% more air per...

www.specialized.com

I own this pump and do not use it at all. Perhaps my hands are too weak but I couldn't pump anything with it.

What I do use is this larger pump called Topeak Mountain Twin Turbo G. It can deliver up to 58 psi, which is fine for all my purposes. Each stroke (both directions) produces the air. The pump is designed to produce a large volume of air fast. The gauge shows you precisely where you are. However, I have never tried to mount this MTB pump on any of my e-bikes (I carry it in a pannier).

2. Also considering this $35 CO2 trigger with gauge. Have yet to actually use CO2, but this looks a lot more convenient than the MSW CO2 adapter I already have.

CPRO2 Gauge Trigger

The easiest way to use CO2.

www.specialized.com

I haven't used a CO2 inflator yet. It is not your regular bicycle pump! The purpose is to rapidly boost a tubeless tyre pressure when you have lost all the air from the tyre, and especially after the tyre bead fell off the rim. After you have determined the cause of the flat, you simply press the nozzle of the inflator against your Presta valve (I don't think you need to screw it onto the valve!) and open the inflator valve. You are getting a high boost of pressurised CO2, which is as strong as it will "shoot" the tyre bead back onto the rim. It is not possible to do it with a regular pump.

I resigned from the tubeless system because I realised I should the best own a compressor at home to be able to fully maintain the tubeless system. If I kept the tubeless, I would carry both a CO2 inflator and a pump.

What I bought, however, (but never used) was a tubeless CO2 repair kit. The tool has a large "needle", a set of "bacon strips", and a CO2 refill system. You use it if the hole in the tyre is as big as you must seal it. Please watch YT videos on "CO2 tubeless repair kit". I want to make it clear the CO2 repair kit is not the same as the CO2 inflator. The former is to close the hole and refill the tyre with a boost (through the hole in the tyre) while the latter is for just reinflating the tyre post a serious loss of air (through the valve).

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Jeremy: an extra information for you.

Most tubeless punctures are not severe and seal themselves fast. Any pressure loss can be compensated by a regular bike pump. In my worst case (e-MTB) the puncture caused by a piece of quartzite was severe. I lost half the pressure by the time the sealant closed the hole. My Twin Turbo was sufficient to reinflate the wheel. However, the total air loss is dangerous because the tyre bead might separate from the rim. In such case, the CO2 inflator is a must.

 

[Base]

When on the road we use a topeak roadmorph with dial. For the office rides mostly a CO2 cannister and a Lezyne mini pump in the luggage.

You could also opt for https://www.topeak.com/global/en/product/1737-E-BOOSTER-DIGITAL small, as easy to use as CO2 and pumps to your settings of psi or bar. Just use it every now and than so that you do not forget to charge it.

 

[fooferdoggie]

Good point. But do you know for a fact that the CPRO2 screws onto the tire valve? The product blurb doesn't say.

not positive but the barrel is knurled so that looks like it will screw on.

 

[Nubnub]

not positive but the barrel is knurled so that looks like it will screw on.

I think most CO2 inflators use threads to ensure a good connection.. Reading the reviews, seems the Spec one does as well. I'd recommend either carrying a valve core remover tool to tighten the valve core before screwing on an inflator. A few times I've had the valve core come out when unscrewing the inflator. It may be that the cold temperature increases the chances that the core comes out. I've added a lock on adapter to the CO2 inflator to skip the threading needed. I've not had any issues with the press on/lock connection and no worries that the valve core comes out. For tubeless, I think you'd want to carry the CO2 in case you need to reseat the tire. I carry inner tubes "just in case" of some kind of extreme puncture. Having said that, I've not had any issues needing a tube, pump or CO2 on a ride in the past 3 years that I've been running tubeless.

 

[fooferdoggie]

I think most CO2 inflators use threads to ensure a good connection.. Reading the reviews, seems the Spec one does as well. I'd recommend either carrying a valve core remover tool to tighten the valve core before screwing on an inflator. A few times I've had the valve core come out when unscrewing the inflator. It may be that the cold temperature increases the chances that the core comes out. I've added a lock on adapter to the CO2 inflator to skip the threading needed. I've not had any issues with the press on/lock connection and no worries that the valve core comes out. For tubeless, I think you'd want to carry the CO2 in case you need to reseat the tire. I carry inner tubes "just in case" of some kind of extreme puncture. Having said that, I've not had any issues needing a tube, pump or CO2 on a ride in the past 3 years that I've been running tubeless.

I found tubes often come with loose valves, so if you don't check them. I have had several that just push on and they work well too.

 

[Jeremy McCreary]

Thanks for all the help, guys! After a trip to my local Specialized shop, decided to take a chance on the CPRO2 trigger and pass on the pump.

All of the Specialized frame mounts for pumps put the pump lateral to the frame tube bosses, not directly over or under them. I can see how some might want that.

But I want a mini pump that will mount directly under the aft part of my top tube, using the bosses already there. Suggestions?

 

[Base]

You would end up with something as a One-up Tube strap. https://eu.oneupcomponents.com/products/edc-tube-strap-mount

 

[Base]

Or better the pump starp https://eu.oneupcomponents.com/products/edc-inline-pump-mount

 

[Stefan Mikes]

But I want a mini pump that will mount directly under the aft part of my top tube, using the bosses already there. Suggestions?

Jeremy, this question was asked back in February 2023. I asked my cycling friends for an advice. The answer from the most experienced racer was: 'I wouldn't install anything there as my thighs would be chafed by the thing'. I took more effort and researched the problem. I could find a Specialized suggestion to install a folded lock there.

All of the Specialized frame mounts for pumps put the pump lateral to the frame tube bosses, not directly over or under them.

As my Vado SL frame size M doesn't even have any bosses there, I once needed to use the seat-tube bosses to hold both a mini-pump and a water-bottle cage at the same time. Each of the mini-pumps I owned (Specialized or road-bike Topeak; I was never happy with any of them) came with a lateral mount. I combined the pump mount and the bottle-cage (on the top of the mount) on the seat-tube bosses. This way, I could insert any mini-pump on the left side of the seat-tube, just above the charging port. It worked perfectly until I decided neither of the mini-pumps were adequate, so I eventually removed the pump mount (no pictures available).

My question is: Do you want to install a mini-pump on the top tube just because the bosses are there? Or, for another reason? Most of my racing friends just carry the minipump in the jersey back pocket

"My beloved performing cyclists: What would you install there? Asking for a friend, seriously!"

 

[Jeremy McCreary]

My question is: Do you want to install a mini-pump on the top tube just because the bosses are there? Or, for another reason? Most of my racing friends just carry the minipump in the jersey back pocket

Not always wearing a jersey. And I seriously doubt that a pump where I want it will ever touch my legs.

 

[Jeremy McCreary]

Or better the pump starp https://eu.oneupcomponents.com/products/edc-inline-pump-mount

Thanks — exactly the pump mount I'm looking for!

 

[Base]

When you would need extra bottle cage mounts on your bikeframe, there are options, Ortlieb has cage-straps, Topeak the versamounts and M-wave has a set os bottle cage bosses which you can velcro-on to your tubing.

O-Strap Bottle Cage Mount

Flexibele bevestigingsmogelijkheden voor extra bidonhouders of andere accessoires op het frame van de fiets.

nl.ortlieb.com

VERSAMOUNT

<p>Versatile mount for additional water bottle cage or other accessories. Band style clamp provides easy installation and flexible mounting options. Fits tubes ø20 - ø60mm.</p>

www.topeak.com

M-WAVE flexibele nokjes

Twee nokjes voor o,a, bidonhouder, vorktassen, pomhouders enz. Met de meegeleverde anti-slip bandjes van 25cm kan je deze nokjes plaatsen waar je maar wilt.

www.bike4travel.nl

 

[Allan47.7339]

I've quit using CO2 cartridges. I carry a Cycliq electric pump and an ultralight 30g light hand pump. Too often the two cartridges did not have enough finesse and control to solve the problem. The hand pump mount goes under the water bottle cage and the pump is along side the water bottle. I use a velcro strap around the pump and seat tube to set and forget. If you are just going to carry one pump the Topeak Road Morph G is the best but not the most attractive. I mostly ride in groups so the electric is the fastest way to get everyone back on the road. As a former year round commuter I have changed a lot of flats. I have not had a flat recently but I am due one any day now.

 

[Jeremy McCreary]

I've quit using CO2 cartridges.

Have yet to actually use a CO2 cartridge on a bike tire, but I can easily see myself running out of patience with them. In the meantime, hoping the CPRO 2 CO2 regulator with gauge mentioned above will help.

The hand pump mount goes under the water bottle cage and the pump is along side the water bottle. I use a velcro strap around the pump and seat tube to set and forget.

True, but I don't want my pump sticking out like that. If necessary, I'll try your velcro solution on my top tube instead.

The seat and down tubes are already full.

If you are just going to carry one pump the Topeak Road Morph G is the best but not the most attractive.

Will look into that. Problem is, I really want to limit onboard storage to what you see above, and there may not be room for an effective electric pump.

 

[Base]

Got two near me, the topeak comes with the mount you are looking for. I do not know if the length could be an issue....

 

[Allan47.7339]

The problem with CO2 cartridges is they don't really regulate very well. I have various heads with control knobs, the Silca CO2 Regulator, push to flow etc but the cartridges all start with a big blast. If it's inflating a new tube or a properly patched tube they work but everything has to be aligned. I once tested the brittleness of brass under very cold temperatures by breaking the valve while removing the regulator. The electric pump goes in a frame bag.