Experience Thread: A noobie getting into a specialized vado 5.0 IGH

Similarly, I ride with Shimano M520 SPD on my road bike and EH500 on my hybrid/gravel bike. Love the connectedness, particularly when standing up to grind out the last bit of a steep hill.

Never crossed my mind to put clipless pedals on my Vado though.

So far I've had no issues with the stock pedals, they're fine with my sneakers and casual shoes. That said, it's also second nature for me to put my weight on the pedals when going over bumps even if I don't fully lift off the seat, so never any issues with feet coming off. If I should decide to change pedals it'll likely be to something like the Wellgo LU-C015 or similar.

You're going to like the Ergon GP1 grips.

I also put a Serfas MR1 bar end mirror on the left side. I've used the Mirrycle Mirror both upward mounted and low mounted, both work nicely, but I like the more subtle profile of the Serfas MR1.
I put a bar end mirror on mine also and along witht the radar it gives some peace of mind. I also added the Basil MIK trunk which is slick looking amd functional. If I change pedals, it will be something like th Race Face Ride pedals
 
So the expedition gel is on the bike. Holy crap it’s a different feeling. It feels like sitting on a toilet. And, it’s not soft. It was actually almost shockingly hard. I only did a test ride to check for sizing. I wouldn’t call it uncomfortable yet. Awkward, yes. I was expecting something softer and cushier.

Will see how it does.
I'll update the Respiro on Monday when I get home and try it out. It is ready for pickup at REI but I won't be back until Monday
 
I put a bar end mirror on mine also and along witht the radar it gives some peace of mind. I also added the Basil MIK trunk which is slick looking amd functional. If I change pedals, it will be something like th Race Face Ride pedals
Yup, mirror plus Varia radar is a great combo. Since I ended up buying the 4.0 used for a good price, I just use the RTL515 I already own. (edit - plus I get the benefit of the flashing light when the radar picks up a vehicle)

I went a different direction on the trunk bag - bought a Topeak MTS DXP trunkbag from Amazon Warehouse, cut off the bottom velcro straps and added a MIK adapter plate. 🌟 My wife has a Bontrager MIK trunk without panniers and while it's nice, I prefer the Topeak trunk bags.
 
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Just got back from the longest loop I currently do. 11.5 miles. The only other bike I did this loop was the current. Some observations:

The current is faster. It has a higher high gear and it shows on the downhills and flats. But, on the uphills, I think the vado was faster. It has a lower low gear and just feels easier a lot of the time. I pushed cadence well into 100+ at times. Totally not worth it and just started coasting on hills instead. ;)

The expedition gel is surprisingly comfortable. No numbness or other issues like that *but* it is definitely not positioned correctly for this saddle. I kept wanting to slide forward which pushed my weight on to my hands. This only created some numbness in the hands, surprisingly, particularly my left hand. I didn't have to stop and rest or anything like that. So, I am going to play with saddle position. It's odd because it feels like two big lumps I am sitting on, but it's not uncomfortable. Even with these "issues" this may have been the most comfortable run of this loop. I did level the saddle, but I think I need to level it differently. It feels like "level" should be the rear bumps and the nose, or at least closer to that rather than the cutout channel. But, it also may simply be that this saddle needs to be a bit further forward so I sit a bit further back on it naturally.

Battery life: Started at 100% and ended at 71%. I didn't use mission control so I don't get to see the watt hours number (but it really should be 205?). This is a mix of turbo and eco for the most part. My math puts a range of 40 miles. Not terribly impressive. One of my personal goals is to do this ride fully in eco. But, I suspect that is a while off. Particularly the hill back to my house, which seems to eat most of the power. This was only a climb of 772 feet total, most of which is in the hill up to my house. The specialized turbo calculator puts the same thing in turbo for 3,300 feet with the same range while using turbo exclusively. Interesting.

Charging: This bike seems to only charge when it is turned on, and the plug is inserted while the bike is on. If you plug it in while off, or turn it off while plugged in, no charging. My answer to this is simply to never turn the bike off. Plug it in when I get home, and just let the thing manage itself. Seems to work fine.

Integration Question: @Stefan Mikes you can probably answer this. I currently prefer Ride With GPS as my main tracking app. Is there a way to get the bike to hand data about power usage and whatever else it tracks to ride with gps? Or any other app? I don't really like specialized app and would rather just use it to control settings. I might be able to tolerate strava just for tracking purposes (but not for planning).

Clipping in - I tightened up my cleats to make walking easier. This made clipping in a touch harder. I finally bit the bullet and decided to order the double sided magped enduro2 as these seem to address every problem. No looking for when "clipping" and no looking for when using normal shoes. Of course, when using SPD, there is no option to use them "unclipped" since both sides have the magnet. Since I highly prefer to be clipped, I don't think that will be a problem.

I Learn new things on every ride.

Happy Riding!
 
So your bike doesn't charge if you plug it in while off? I would be talking to the dealer about that, it's not right. I turn mine off then plug it in. The readout lights up and shows percentage of charge and then shuts back off completley when full charged.
 
So your bike doesn't charge if you plug it in while off? I would be talking to the dealer about that, it's not right. I turn mine off then plug it in. The readout lights up and shows percentage of charge and then shuts back off completley when full charged.
Nope. It does seem odd. First couple of days I came back to a bike that didn't charge. Gonna go play with it now to see if I was crazy. Multiple times.
 
Nope. It does seem odd. First couple of days I came back to a bike that didn't charge. Gonna go play with it now to see if I was crazy. Multiple times.
Try removing the battery and charging it not in the bike, it should do so just fine.
 
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Integration Question: @Stefan Mikes you can probably answer this. I currently prefer Ride With GPS as my main tracking app. Is there a way to get the bike to hand data about power usage and whatever else it tracks to ride with gps? Or any other app? I don't really like specialized app and would rather just use it to control settings. I might be able to tolerate strava just for tracking purposes (but not for planning).
Sorry to say but it is either Garmin Edge (530, 830, 1030+ or 1040+) or Wahoo ELEMNT (Roam or Bolt v2) that can transfer Specialized or Giant e-bike ride data to apps such as Strava or RWGPS. In your case, it is only recommended if you need GPS navigation in addition to what you already use. I plan my routes in RideWithGPS, upload them to a Wahoo, use the Wahoo as navigation and a ride recorder including Specialized e-bike data (power, cadence, calories), and I send the ride data to Strava but it could be RWGPS as well.
 
P.S. I have quite forgotten I transfer the ride data from Wahoo to both Strava and RWGPS, I only do not pay attention to RWGPS social networking :)
Wahoo is far more important for my Vado SL, as the latter has no display. Wahoo plays the role of the display for my SL, too.
 
In other threads people were complaining about IGH automatiq not hitting the highest gear leading to a slower bike. I just want to make sure that isn’t happening here. Since the current did have a much higher gear inch based on the gearing, there will obviously be some difference.

Did we come up with a reliable test to see if a bike is effected?
 
I am one of the other threads about it being slow. I can hit 28 but not til a cadence of 90 + or so , too fast for me . I consider this a 25 mph bike and then all is well. I can go consistently faster on my trek Allant 7s with upgraded gear set . This bike anyone can ride though ,no real experience and won’t ruin the gear with poor shifting

I ask everyone with a 5 auto what is your lowest cadence which you are going 28 and what other setting are you in.

I ride mine with a general setting of 70% on the 0 to hundred micro tune (can’t remember correct name as I sit here) and then I go up and down the cadence screen of slowest to fastest as gears almost so I can spin faster up hills and slower on flat and descending terrain.
 
I am one of the other threads about it being slow. I can hit 28 but not til a cadence of 90 + or so , too fast for me . I consider this a 25 mph bike and then all is well. I can go consistently faster on my trek Allant 7s with upgraded gear set . This bike anyone can ride though ,no real experience and won’t ruin the gear with poor shifting

I ask everyone with a 5 auto what is your lowest cadence which you are going 28 and what other setting are you in.

I ride mine with a general setting of 70% on the 0 to hundred micro tune (can’t remember correct name as I sit here) and then I go up and down the cadence screen of slowest to fastest as gears almost so I can spin faster up hills and slower on flat and descending terrain.
I will try to see what it takes to hit 28mph. Do you do that at a specific support level? I don’t think there is any question I would hit 28 in turbo on flat parts. Would I get there in eco? Not sure.

Currenty, I basically use the bike in off, eco or turbo from factory defaults. I am planning to try micro tune as eco is too much for flat family riding. I will also want to focus on battery life with custom presets. I like the idea of a low support level with high peak power.
 
one thing I noticed: it doesn’t want to switch into the lowest gear in general riding. I suspect it detects the incline and rider power and won’t drop all the way down unless you are fighting a hill. Now that I have custom screens with this info, I will pay attention to the gearing, power and other stuff on the next real ride.
 
Micro tune is the same as standard but 10 choices compared to 3 in my mind. I love control which goes against it being automatic shift. I believe this is not the bike for me because I like to shift so often to get just right feel all the time. This is now my brothers bike and he will get it as soon as I get enough reliable bikes in garage that I don’t worry which bike I will need to use based on which works the best . My wife also is looking forward to an auto shift so this is great for her also and includes local service. My brother really likes the built in radar.

I would prefer the manual shift version I believe but no twist shifting for me.
 
Micro tune is the same as standard but 10 choices compared to 3 in my mind. I love control which goes against it being automatic shift. I believe this is not the bike for me because I like to shift so often to get just right feel all the time. This is now my brothers bike and he will get it as soon as I get enough reliable bikes in garage that I don’t worry which bike I will need to use based on which works the best . My wife also is looking forward to an auto shift so this is great for her also and includes local service. My brother really likes the built in radar.

I would prefer the manual shift version I believe but no twist shifting for me.
Technically, microtune pairs support and peak power together in 10% increments. But presets let you separate the two. I haven’t tried it yet. I don’t feel like I need the granularity since when I need hill support it’s generally 100/100 from turbo. I did use microtune earlier today with the family. It was nice to have the 10% option as default eco is too much.

I get the dislike of twist shifting. Not my favorite method either. But, I like derailleurs even less.

I agree, the vario is brilliant. Having it tell me there are 3-5 cars at different distances is amazing.
 
Sorry to say but it is either Garmin Edge (530, 830, 1030+ or 1040+) or Wahoo ELEMNT (Roam or Bolt v2) that can transfer Specialized or Giant e-bike ride data to apps such as Strava or RWGPS.
I think I found a different alternative. There are ant+ bridge to BLE that may work. Npe cable is one. Viiiiva hrm is another. Npe cable may be unobtanium currently. I don’t really want to wear an hrm just to get ant+ data to the phone. But I will keep looking.

Personally, I am hoping the sports focused apple watch that is coming has ant+. That would be really nice. That means Apple almost certainly won’t do it. ;p
 
Man, seat adjustments really matter. I moved the seat to make it less "fall offy" only to get fairly numb hands. Had to stop mid ride and set it back. I could also feel more stress in my knees. I did the exact same 11.5 mile loop.

I think I am going to go back to the rivo sport for a bit and micro adjust so the riding position is great. It seems like sitting further back and focusing on my leg positioning *also* fixes hand numbness. Even this super comfy gel saddle got uncomfortable in the wrong position.

My bike reaches 28+ MPH for sure. I just hit open road and "floored it". I was doing 100+ cadence but was also still increasing speed until I let off at almost 29 mph (100% support). On the flip side, the bike never went into the lowest gear no matter what I did as far as I could tell. I dropped support to 10%, slowed cadence to 50 rpm and still stayed in 2nd to lowest gear on a 9%ish hill. Not sure what any of that means. ;P

Also, trying to sustain 350-400 watts rider power is hard. Anyway, gonna keep going.

Happy Riding!
 
IPersonally, I am hoping the sports focused apple watch that is coming has ant+. That would be really nice. That means Apple almost certainly won’t do it. ;p
Apple wants people to stay in their ecosystem. They're never going to do ANT+ IMHO.
 
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