ET T1000 run on question.

oldugly

New Member
Region
Canada
i have a new ET T1000 i just got it yesterday.
the bike has about 1 1/2-2 second run-on. once you stop pedaling the motor still pushes you forward for that couple of seconds. this has caught me off guard a couple of times. one of those times crashing into the garbage cans.

do all T1000 do this?

thank you
tom
 
I know how unlikely this sounds, but I had a new bike doing the same thing. As I do all of my own service work, and not having much patience with some of the stock/OEM controllers being supplied, I installed an aftermarket KT controller figuring there was little doubt that would fix the issue. It didn't! It turned out the PAS sensor was the issue as once that was replaced the issue never returned....

Not saying this is the issue here. Only that it is a possibility.....

Oh, and when I called and asked the factory about this issue on my brand new bike, they told me to just tap the brakes to kill the motor. I tried that, and it did work, but that seemed like a pretty crappy solution to the issue....
 
I know how unlikely this sounds, but I had a new bike doing the same thing. As I do all of my own service work, and not having much patience with some of the stock/OEM controllers being supplied, I installed an aftermarket KT controller figuring there was little doubt that would fix the issue. It didn't! It turned out the PAS sensor was the issue as once that was replaced the issue never returned....

Not saying this is the issue here. Only that it is a possibility.....

Oh, and when I called and asked the factory about this issue on my brand new bike, they told me to just tap the brakes to kill the motor. I tried that, and it did work, but that seemed like a pretty crappy solution to the issue....
i was told the same thing by the seller, "just tap the brake to kill the motor"
the PAS sensor you replaced, who was you supplier?
thank you
tom
 
"just tap the brake to kill the motor"
Pull and HOLD the brake lever. a tap is momentary.

Ahicks version means pulling the crank arm. This but if you currently have that typed you'll need to get a crankarm tool anyway. with luck, you'll have a split ring that is easy to change.

1665849303093.png
 
The lag is on purpose and I do not like it. It is supposed to, 'Smooth out the ride,' so it is not lurchy and twitchy. This is very common. Also when you begin pedaling again after coasting there is lag. Three cadence magnets need to pass the pickup before it kicks in.
 
The lag is on purpose and I do not like it. It is supposed to, 'Smooth out the ride,' so it is not lurchy and twitchy. This is very common. Also when you begin pedaling again after coasting there is lag. Three cadence magnets need to pass the pickup before it kicks in.
I get it on start up. That's to prevent accidental power when the pedals are bumped, creating a pretty startling situation. Most people are OK with that. But when you stop pedaling, the power should shut down NOW. That's just common sense. There's no logical excuse to force people to deal with that.

My bikes all shut down with just a tap of the brakes.
 
for now i am training myself to go to zero power setting and 1st gear when coming to a stop.
then to start out i get the bike moving under human power before hitting the PAS button.
but
i would like to find a better solution.
 
This looks like a pretty decent bike, but I have NO experience with the controller or the display -
DisplayC7BBT-10: 5 Wire Das-Kit Display
ControllerCT5-I5 Das-Kit Controller
 
I got my T1000 on November 2nd and found out a few things.

The C7BB-10 is the standard issue Display for the Australian market.

The C7BBT-10 is the off-road display (with T standing for throttle, which is only legal on private property and off-road use in Australia.)


The C7BBT-10 display is fully unlocked and you can adjust every PAS mode speed as well as the power settings, just about everything up to the maximum speed limit in Australia of 48 km/hr for off-road use.


As far as I understand it, all T1000's have the same motor, which is a 750w motor with a peak power of 1000w.

I have found 3 different controllers all labeled "CT5-I5 Das-Kit Controller".

One is a 15 amp version for the European market, a second 18 amp version for the Canadian market, and a third 22 amp version for the US market.


I am almost positive that the Australian off-road display will unlock the controller to the maximum of its abilities, but won't get a 15 amp version to pull 22 amps from it.
The controller will say NO.
(It's Das-Kit,. German engineered and quality controlled.)



Another option is to buy a new C7 display from Amego.

It allows you to turn down your power from Turbo, to Normal, to Eco...

This is my conversation with Amego.
(Sorry if this isn't allowed on the forum. Please delete if necessary.)

Screenshot_20221109-154222_DuckDuckGo.jpg
Screenshot_20221109-154232_DuckDuckGo.jpg
Screenshot_20221109-154304_DuckDuckGo.jpg
Screenshot_20221109-155057_DuckDuckGo.jpg





One guy wrote this about the H7 display and how it affected his performance, but he was talking about range and not the KICK the bike gives you when the PAS kicks in or the throttle is applied,..


Screenshot_20221127-180225_DuckDuckGo.jpg



Apparently, the T1000 motor is geared for torque and REALLY packs a punch when it kicks in.

I just want to turn that down so that my almost bald fat street tires don't skid out from under me and leave me sliding down the road on my side.

I don't want to go 48 km/hr.

I just want to go 32 km/hr, preferably not on my ass on a gravel road or in a ditch. Lol
 
Brake cutouts don’t immediately kill the motor?

Yes they do.
On both brake levers.

You have to hold them in to keep killing the engine.

The engine still kicks in pretty hard when you release the brakes.
 
Cutouts should kill the power until it is again requested. Are some new tires in order? That is a huge safety issue. Twist throttles are better in theory than in practice.
 
Cutouts should kill the power until it is again requested.

Yes.
I use the brake cutout switches like a clutch.

Are some new tires in order?

Yeah.
Not much is available now in my size.
Regular 26x4.00 nobby tires won't clear my bikes rear frame.

I like these, I think ?

Screenshot_20221127-195308_Messages.jpg

That is a huge safety issue.
Twist throttles are better in theory than in practice.

I've got two throttles now.
A twist and a switch.

20221127_201552.jpg
20221127_191617.jpg
 
I removed the spring from my thumb throttle and replaced it with a rubber washer.

20221114_131013.jpg
20221114_131146.jpg
20221114_113309.jpg
20221114_132857.jpg



My thumb throttle now stays where I set it.
It is sticky.
 
A thumb throttle should be progressive. A twist can fly away from you while walking the bike though a narrow area such as a door. Even with the rubber washer. My bikes measure pedal pressure and amplify that to the extent requested. The accelerator is all in the foot, like a car. Push, Go, regardless of pedaling speed. Try looking at some Schwalbe 26" tires. Quality.
 
This is the variable thumb throttle just after it activates.
It is set at 5.4 km/hr.
Das-Kit sets speed not power, so the speed is locked in no matter how much you pedal or don't.

20221127_191238.jpg20221127_190924.jpg

This is my sticky throttle at maximum.
32km/hr

20221127_191315.jpg20221127_190940.jpg


This is my throttle at half max.

20221127_191437.jpg20221127_191444.jpg
 
Just delete the throttle.
I delete mine because it's all or none.

I hear that, but what I did was add a secondary throttle.
The sticky throttle sets the speed of my "PAS" to whatever I want.
I only pedal if my current/amp meter is maxed out when I'm going uphill or into the wind.

I can reach over with my thumb and hit the thumb throttle to max, or reach over with my thumb and turn it to zero.
Easy Peasy.

I don't want no cadence or torque sensor monitoring my activity
I will help my e-bike when I need to

I don't have my PAS helping me when it's programming decides to.


I set the speed and help my bike maintain that speed when I feel like it or when it is necessary.
 
Back