No it's not. You never mentioned anything about ghost pedaling on level ground to establish a baseline PAS speed along with posting your specific power reading when doing so, and then pedaling with force under same conditions, and posting your specific power reading when doing so. That's the test you need to do. You did not do that. You made some vague comment about power dropping when you went faster, which sounds like speed based CAS, which is what people generally have complained about and Kevin didn't like. Read what I posted carefully. Your additional statements here also show you are not following what I'm saying. This isn't rocket science, so I'm trying to help. Let me explain further with some additional reference here.
I think you need to work on your conversational style, it makes assumptions and is actually kind of condescending... especially for someone who doesn't even own this particular ebike.
This is what I said:
I tested this on the Sport because one of the display settings is a P mode where it shows motor output (not sure if that number is watts or current or whatever) but it varies based on how hard/fast you are pedaling and maxes out at a different number for each PAS level.
So you are assuming I didn't do this under various conditions. Which I did... uphill, downhill and on flats. I didn't want to put all the details but I would hope you would give me more credit when I say "tested" doesn't mean I only did one test and that was it.
And I did not say "power dropped when *I* went faster"... what I did say was "the amount of power from the motor varied on how hard/fast I was pedaling"..
Pedaling cadence sensors work like an on off switch, not based on how fast or forceful your pedaling is. And no, cadence PAS systems are not all the same - that's what I'm trying to clarify as other have already done before. As mentioned by Kevin at this point in this interview
https://youtu.be/9tFylNSFmCM?t=1331, they changed from speed to current (power factor) because power based cadence does NOT drop off power at a certain speed in any assist level as you said your Sport is doing in your vague details about what you tried.
I don't think you are right here. As Kevin said in the video, with cadence sensors, the amount of power available to the motor is limited by each PAS level, and how much power given to the motor depends on the speed of the cadence. Simply put, the slower you pedal, the more power, the faster you pedal the less power.
I read that Radbikes had made the same change from speed to power based assistance several years ago. See this post in this thread:
https://electricbikereview.com/foru...hrottle-only-as-well-as-pas.26022/post-171934
quote:
"My 2016 Radrovers had the original programming with the motor cut-off per mph speed (PAS 1: 4 mph, PAS 2: 8 mph, ..Pas 5: 20 mph). Rad updated the controller in 2017 to the watts per PAS level.
PAS 0: 0 watts
PAS 1: 75 watts
PAS 2: 175 watts
PAS 3: 375 watts
PAS 4: 550 watts
PAS 5: 750 watts
The motor cut-off speed will be exactly the same for PAS 1-5 and throttle once you change it in the LCD screen. The Radcity motor will provide power while pedaling in PAS 1-5 until you reach 40 km/h if you are not using the throttle"
The above quote is saying exactly what I've been saying about cadence sensor "power" based PAS. The speed at which power is applied in any assist level is not limited by the power based PAS up to the legal limit of class 3 at 28 mph (or whatever max global speed limit is configured).
This is not different from how I'm saying it works on the Espin. Each PAS level has a max power cutoff (as I said in my original post). There may also be a speed cutoff where if you exceed a certain speed (not cadence speed), where the motor just puts out minimal power.
Let me go into more detail. On a flat surface, as you start pedaling slowly, the P number on my display goes up to 400, as I pedal faster, the P number goes down to like 80. I can hear the motor output more or less power based on how fast I'm pedaling... so that confirms that power output depends on cadence speed.
Now what about the speed limiter? Well, on a flat surface, when I hit 10mph, that number drops down to like 20. So how do I test if there is a speed limiter because at this point I am either pedaling so fast that the output is minimal or it's indeed a speed limit at PAS 1. Easy... I go downhill. Going downhill, at a speed over 10mph, changing the cadence of my pedaling does not change the P number past 20. The only thing that changes it is if I stop pedaling or pedal backwards, then the P number goes to 0. But if I pedal forward, even if it's "ghost pedaling", the number does not go above 20.
So there is a speed limit in the sense that it stop sending out more than a small amount of power when you exceed that speed, which makes sense because why output power if you're moving faster than that power level could move you.
Speed refers to the velocity of the bicycle. Power refers to the electrical "watts" used to provide assistance. There is some correlation, but speed is also affected by the rider's pedaling force, ground level, weight of rider, wind, rolling resistance, to name a few. But the big difference in the speed vs. power based systems is as clarified a few times already in that a speed based PAS at a given assist level drops off the power applied to the motor when it hits a specific speed, while with the Ride1Up bike and other power based PAS bikes, the power will NOT drop off at a specific speed in any assist level and will continue applying assistance as the rider pedals faster with force. So you will still get the PAS's power assistance regardless of speed or assist level until you hit the legal limit of 28 mph or configured global speed limit. There's still no clear evidence the Sport will do that or if it's speed limited PAS per assist level as I suspect, as the older Radrover bike described with the mph cutoffs per assist level.
I think we agree here in principal except that a cadence sensor is not just an on and off switch. The amount of power output at each PAS level is inversely proportional to the cadence of your pedaling.
In the case of Radpower, I don't get why it would still put out max power regardless of speed because isn't that just a waste? Unless there is something different in their cadence sensor control.
And hopefully what I explained repeatedly now and referenced to other info above explains again why that is NOT the case, and some providers of these bike have specifically made changes to move from operating in one way to the other. I don't know which method Espin uses, but I could find out easily if I had one. Hopefully someone with an Espin can actually test that.
Hopefully I gave you more details on my testing. And maybe my testing was flawed, but that's why I used that P number to help me determine how much the motor was putting out in relation to my cadence speed... not just my moving speed.