I have both sets of grips (Ergons/SQL), and while I haven't tried mix and matching them, they should work fine. I just checked my spare set of 411's in the garage, and the diameter looks to match the Ergons pretty much spot on. That matters as you need to "share" the weight across the grip and the inner bar end when using them, so a difference in diameter would probably be uncomfortable. As for use case, the inners are best for "road" style riding where you want a bit of an aero bar position, but they are nice for lazy rides around town bike paths. They allow you to use the brakes with your outside fingers, unlike the horns on the Ergons which require a full hand reposition which rules them out in any kind of mixed-use trail/city traffic. I'd say that is my favorite thing about them.
www.sq-lab.com
Can't speak to your exact configuration, but as for wear and tear on the sqlabs, they are very durable. Have the texture and density of a soft car tire, and in 1,500kms on mine, they show no signs of wear. The Ergons are "slipperier" but that's neither a pro nor con to me.I have a Rohloff twist shifter and have the GP3's, they've been great.
Would like to get BioKork GP5's but they don't do a twist shift compatible version, so was going to end up getting BioKork GP3's until i got reminded of SQlabs again.
Anyone tried these with a Rohloff twist shifter, is it too "grippy" between the grip & the twist shifter, what's the wear & tear like on the SQlabs?:
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If you loosen the right shifter slightly, you might be able to slide that bell ring fully underneath the shifter indicator (angled slighty towards you) and then tighten it all up again. Turn the bell trigger 90 degrees to the right and it clicks nicely with your thumb. Did so on mine and freed up and inch.I'd love to find some spare estate on my Vado SL handlebars to fit the SQlabs there ...
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This time, I chose Ergon GP2 (small) for my Vado SL, as these are quite sufficient for that bike and look more refined with the delicately looking, visually small frame of the SL.
Hmm, still don't know what to do.
In a recent fall I was still trying to get the bike out of a skid when weight took it down, my hands were still on grips all the way down, a few digs on back of hands but not the huge road rash that is common when you go down hands first - the normal reaction.In the self-styled way, I acclaim the Ergon GP3 the best bike grips ever made!
Proper Setup
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First of all, the GP3 come in two sizes. Buy the Large variety only in case you have really large hands. The Ergons might be too wide to fit your gadget-crammed handlebars, and it is also better not to change the brake lever position. If you still see the yellow interior of the grip after you have slid it fully onto the handlebar, you need to shorten the grip. Use a very sharp knife to shorten the grip -- and be cautious to not cut your fingers! (You have been warned)
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The "normal" or "safety" hand position. Use it while riding with traffic or on crowded bike or multiple-use paths.
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Modern e-MTBs sport the "1-finger" brake levers; modern commuter e-bikes have the "2-finger" brake levers. Never place more fingers than necessary on the lever. While riding in a crowded area, rest your finger(s) on brake levers in a relaxed way; you don't want to make your fingers tired but you might want to brake rather fast.
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The "steering-wheel" or "trail" hand position. That's what makes the Ergons so great. You delicately rest your three fingers on the bar-end, while your thumb and little finger ensure a proper hold. You steer your e-bike as you were operating your car's steering wheel. That hand position is proper for very long rides and ensures the best control over the bike even in very rough terrain. The benefits:
I just want to tell you that I ride over 90% my long trips in the "trail" hand position. Specifically, uphill ride is extremely easy with that hand position. Note: You can move your hands to the "safety" position instantly, as the bar-ends are small.
- The hand doesn't get tired or numb (people with carpal tunnel syndrome will be delighted)
- You exercise the perfect control over your bike, especially with wide handlebars
- In rough terrain, you just tighten your grip a little bit for even better steering control
- During "washboard" sections of gravel roads, ease the hand-grip. The bar-end will travel vertically among your fingers, providing rapid-vibration protection to your hands -- especially, owners of rigid-fork e-bikes will be happy!
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The "Easy Rider" hand position. Use on a very long ride in safe environment when you are really tired. Rest your wrist and thumb on the wrist-support. The part of the palm near to the little finger shall rest where the bar-end-plug is normally located.
Falling with Your Bike
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There are two survival techniques, shall your bike fall:
Ride safely!
- Jump off the bike as graciously as Bambi would do it
- Provided you're wearing the helmet, move your hands instantly to the "safety position" and just fall together with your e-bike. Your hands shall be on the grips and your feet shall stay planted on the pedals! Your head will probably hit the ground but it's protected. You might get some bruises. But your limbs won't get broken and the hands won't be damaged, as the latter are protected by the GP3 bar-end. Trust me: I know the best how to fall with the bike. The stains of sun-molten asphalt on my Trance E+ right-hand GP3 bar-end are the proof. The grip and my helmet took the most of the impact. And I have fallen with my bikes many times before I mastered the (1) technique
