Electra Townie conversion with kit from Bluenergy

[stanmiller]

After a few years of lurking around here and endless-sphere, I finally took the plunge and converted my Electra Townie to an e-bike. I’m now over 530 634 1386 2000 2530 miles in and couldn’t be happier.



I had ridden this Townie and prior Trek Pure thousands of miles and along the way tuned the drive train to an 8-speed 11-32t cassette (Shimano), 38t chain ring (Absolute Black), and X7 derailleur (SRAM). This configuration has been great for flats and hills alike. And since the e-conversion the bike continues to be well balanced, now flattens hills, and cruises near 30 mph/48 kph at the highest PAS.

I settled on a 500W Bafang rear hub kit from Bluenergy. It had everything I needed less the optional battery. I chose to source the battery elsewhere to allow for extra vetting.

Bluenergy has an online store hosted at Aliexpress, but you can also find their kits through resellers on Amazon.

Bluenergy at AliExpress.com

The trickiest part of the conversion was the disc brake. My Townie doesn’t have a disc brake mount. To workaround I installed an adapter from A2Z. So far it’s been solid.

To power things, I picked up a 48v/13Ah battery from vendor Joyisi on Amazon. The battery has LG cells and has behaved well through a half-a-dozen charge cycles. I’ve taken it over 40 miles on a charge with bars remaining.

Amazon: Joyisi 48v 13Ah battery

Total cost for the conversion was just over $800 including the BB5 disc brake kit.

If you’re looking to go electric on an e-curious budget, this is a kit I would recommend.

 

[Deleted member 4210]

Not many people know this, but Magnum has a great kit, with basically the same quality and components as are on their ebikes. 500 watt motor, 48v, and includes rear rack battery. And since they are here in US, their warranty actually means something, where anything Alibaba, aliexpress, even the same guys who offer stuff on amazon, are all out of China, and so good luck ever getting any replacement, repairs, parts, or refund.

 

[ebikemom]

I heard that Pedego started their business by doing conversions of Electra ebikes, till Electra made them stop doing that...

 

[stanmiller]

Not many people know this, but Magnum has a great kit, with basically the same quality and components as are on their ebikes. 500 watt motor, 48v, and includes rear rack battery. And since they are here in US, their warranty actually means something, where anything Alibaba, aliexpress, even the same guys who offer stuff on amazon, are all out of China, and so good luck ever getting any replacement, repairs, parts, or refund.

Buying a conversion kit from any online vendor is a leap-of-faith.

As an outsider, I knew one can’t appreciate a new technology until you buy-in. My goal was how to get started with ebike tech at a reasonable cost? And it not be a science project.

You could get this kit from Magnum, but that’s $1100. An expensive guess to get wrong. No doubt the kit would work, but the battery in the rear makes the bike back-end heavy. It’s no longer balanced. And is that a freewheel or cassette hub?

https://www.magnumbikes.com/product/magnum-bikes-r2-conversion-kit/

Without a battery, getting started with Bluenergy is under $400. You get brand name Bafang parts, standard e-bus cables with Higo connectors. If a part breaks or the controller was crap I figured I could swap them out. Then later I would sort out the battery mounting, form factor, and battery vendor (Luna?) once I knew the base kit wasn’t junk.

Except for the odd “code 30” error (which I can reset on-the-fly) operation has been flawless. The code 30 may be that I paired the mid-drive Bafang Ultra DP-C18 display with a rear hub motor. It happens so infrequently I haven’t investigated further.

At $800 for the kit + battery, the cost of the experiment decreases daily. Now at 634 miles or $1.26/mile.

And recently, I converted my wife’s Trek Pure to Bluenergy. She loves it

 

[harryS]

You answered my question in the second post, about getting a motor compatible with cassettes.

Both bikes look great to me. Happy riding!

 

[Browneye]

Awesome!
How's the wheel quality? Comes all setup huh?

 

[stanmiller]

Awesome!
How's the wheel quality? Comes all setup huh?

The wheel arrived true and ready to install. Just add a brake disc.

My wheel had held up pretty well until recently. I broke my first spoke around 1200 miles. Then at 1900 broke three more. Charlotte Cycles repaired the wheel both times and sourced compatible 12g spokes from from Pedego.

As we speak, I'm trying my hand at building my first wheel with SAPIM strong spokes from Grin and an Alex rim to replace the Bluenergy wheel.



The only issue we've had with the Bluenergy kits is we occasionally get a Code 30 error (Display<->Controller comm error). It will happen a couple times one ride. Then I won't see it again for weeks. Maybe a firmware update is available for the controller? but I haven't reached out to Bluenergy yet. You can reset the controller in motion so it hasn't caused enough drama to act.

 

[stanmiller]

Here's a photo from last month at 24 hours of Lemons - Carolina Motorsports Park, Kershaw SC.

 

[Browneye]

I keep looking at the rear hub conversion kits...
350 or 500 watt?
36 or 48 volts?

I test rode a 350w bafang hub ebike - an Aventon Pace 350, and it was plenty for the wife's bike - she'll get in trouble with THAT much power. I know they are 36 volt. I'm leaning toward 48v, and could go 500 watt, but what I want to know is for a 350 they have them in both 36 and 48 volts - what would be the performance difference?

About ready to pull the trigger on one of these and get it on the way.

 

[stanmiller]

I keep looking at the rear hub conversion kits...
350 or 500 watt?
36 or 48 volts?

I need to defer to others here for more specifics on the trade-offs.

I chose a 250w/36v for my wife's bike because the motor weighs a bit less and one could get a viable 36v battery in a small water bottle form factor. A similar 48v battery would never fit her bike as you would need too many cells. Plus, 36v batteries usually cost less.

If it fits the budget and you have room for a 48v battery, I would get a 48v/500w combo. You can limit the output by choosing a lower pedal assist.

I had a wheel custom built for her bike because the Trek Pure spokes are silver and uses rim brakes. The pre-built wheels are black with black spokes and disc brake only.

 

[Browneye]

Thanks!
There's more to this than first glance.

 

[tomjasz]

Plus, 36v batteries usually cost less.

Actually cell for cell they are no cheaper. Using a 3500Mah cell in a 36v packs a lot of mileage.

Recently I’ve had a string of 36v BBS01A service calls. Quite a few happy old farts loving life between 15 and 20MPH.
FWIW, my newest step through is a 36V MAC gear drive. I still ride 36v mid drives. My folder project, wanting as light as possible and a mid drive, 36v 250w (10s3p = 30cells.) Half the cells needed for a useful 48v.
The MAC could run on 36v, 48v, and 52v. My new EM3ev 36v Reention case pack holds 17Ah which gives me incredible mileage with a 36V. No weight concern there. And again 20mph with a load of torque keeps me grinning.

I wish more ebike companies used variable voltage controller and motors. So, I build. As an aside I didn’t save a nickel by building with high quality components. I’m thinking of adding an onboard Satiator. There goes the budget...completely over the top.

 

[stanmiller]

Actually cell for cell they are no cheaper.

Agreed. That said, 36v batteries are cheaper in the sense that you only need 10 cells in series to get to 36v (10x3.7). For a 48v you would need 13 cells. More cells equals more cost.

 

[harryS]

If you don't need the top speed, and only want to ride for an hour, that 10S-2P in a small bottle in your wife's bike works fine. We've done the Chicago lakefront ride, which is about 30 miles, on 36V10AH (30 cell) packs in the longer bottle style.

Last year, I bought black Saphim spokes/nipples to match a black motor/rim. Gotta look good, eveb though we're slow.

 

[stanmiller]

If you don't need the top speed, and only want to ride for an hour, that 10S-2P in a small bottle in your wife's bike works fine. We've done the Chicago lakefront ride, which is about 30 miles, on 36V10AH (30 cell) packs in the longer bottle style.

Another option would be to get a second bottle battery and stow in her rack bag. But so far our rides have been under 15 mi. Also, her battery charges fast. So, it's plausible we could charge up onsite while enjoying an extended brunch.

 

[Stibbs]

Buying a conversion kit from any online vendor is a leap-of-faith.

As an outsider, I knew one can’t appreciate a new technology until you buy-in. My goal was how to get started with ebike tech at a reasonable cost? And it not be a science project.

You could get this kit from Magnum, but that’s $1100. An expensive guess to get wrong. No doubt the kit would work, but the battery in the rear makes the bike back-end heavy. It’s no longer balanced. And is that a freewheel or cassette hub?

https://www.magnumbikes.com/product/magnum-bikes-r2-conversion-kit/

Without a battery, getting started with Bluenergy is under $400. You get brand name Bafang parts, standard e-bus cables with Higo connectors. If a part breaks or the controller was crap I figured I could swap them out. Then later I would sort out the battery mounting, form factor, and battery vendor (Luna?) once I knew the base kit wasn’t junk.

Except for the odd “code 30” error (which I can reset on-the-fly) operation has been flawless. The code 30 may be that I paired the mid-drive Bafang Ultra DP-C18 display with a rear hub motor. It happens so infrequently I haven’t investigated further.

At $800 for the kit + battery, the cost of the experiment decreases daily. Now at 634 miles or $1.26/mile.

And recently, I converted my wife’s Trek Pure to Bluenergy. She loves it

4/9/20 I installed a voilamart rear hub kit in January ,the waterproof connectors are all what bfang uses , the kit has been flawless and the battery and kit I got for just under 500.00 the trek 3700 mountain bike a gift. I am at about 600-650 with accessories and new tires, the 2.50x 26 inch hookworm slicks are awesome and super smooth ,use liners and sealant your set

 

[jdiner]

After a few years of lurking around here and endless-sphere, I finally took the plunge and converted my Electra Townie to an e-bike. I’m now over 530 634 1386 2000 2530 miles in and couldn’t be happier.

View attachment 28616

I had ridden this Townie and prior Trek Pure thousands of miles and along the way tuned the drive train to an 8-speed 11-32t cassette (Shimano), 38t chain ring (Absolute Black), and X7 derailleur (SRAM). This configuration has been great for flats and hills alike. And since the e-conversion the bike continues to be well balanced, now flattens hills, and cruises near 30 mph/48 kph at the highest PAS.

I settled on a 500W Bafang rear hub kit from Bluenergy. It had everything I needed less the optional battery. I chose to source the battery elsewhere to allow for extra vetting.

Bluenergy has an online store hosted at Aliexpress, but you can also find their kits through resellers on Amazon.

Bluenergy at AliExpress.com

The trickiest part of the conversion was the disc brake. My Townie doesn’t have a disc brake mount. To workaround I installed an adapter from A2Z. So far it’s been solid.

To power things, I picked up a 48v/13Ah battery from vendor Joyisi on Amazon. The battery has LG cells and has behaved well through a half-a-dozen charge cycles. I’ve taken it over 40 miles on a charge with bars remaining.

Amazon: Joyisi 48v 13Ah battery

Total cost for the conversion was just over $800 including the BB5 disc brake kit.

If you’re looking to go electric on an e-curious budget, this is a kit I would recommend.

StanMiller:

Thanks for the post and tips. I have the 21D version of this same bike. I love the way it "fits me". Old injuries and an aging body and well... I guess I just needed a comfort bike. I really appreciated finding that it could indeed be done. I thought about just buying one of the eGo versions of the Electra Townie from the local bike store. It was $1499 about 2 weeks ago. Went back in 3 days ago and sold out. Apparently they are popular all the way around dang it...

Given how few miles are on my bike it also seemed a shame to buy a replacement for it already. I find the hills we have around here a bit... punishing given the shape I am in at the moment. After test riding some RadPower bikes it became clear to me that I like my Townie better and I want an e-bike desperately.

I went looking at the links you put in your post, and being a total newbie at all of this, and they looked great to me. But I think I would ask as I was narrowing down my selections if there were any updated thoughts or suggestions you might have after so many miles? I would love any suggestions etc...

I suppose one question I would love an answer too if you have any thoughts. If it were you would you convert the existing bike? Or would you go and buy the new factory one? The new one is only 7d, but with a motor it might not matter so much, and has disk brakes already, but no throttle PAS only and I admit I really did like that feature on the RadPower I test rode.

Joshua

 

[Browneye]

@jdiner - I did end up converting one too, thread here: https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/specialized-roll-hub-conversion-q-a.31055/
The bike is now 'three bikes ago' - she is now on a new Giant Stance E+1, some seven thousand dollars later. The good news is that it's easy to resell ebikes, the demand far outstrips the supply of them. I've spent about fifteen thousand on ebikes since getting into the ebike scene. It's a lot of fun, but we don't mess around with anything sub-standard now - only top-brand models and yamaha drive preferred. The others are good, Bosche, Shimano, Brose (specialized) in that order - just make sure you have a reliable dealer to provide warranty should you need it. Yamaha mid-drives in the Giant bikes are nearly bulletproof.

Adding a conversion to an existing bike is akin to building a computer or an experimental aircraft, just not quite to the degree. You need a healthy dose of DIY ability, technical troubleshooting ability, and a keen sense of cause and effect. Knowledge of electrical testing and wiring is essential.

If you're a crafty do-it-yourselfer with a willingness to tinker, it's an inexpensive option compared to a high quality factory bike. The ones you listed don't really fall into that category, but can provide reasonable service nonetheless.

A hub-drive bike is fine for casual riding, they do provide assist, but are not nearly to the integration degree and performance as a big-3 mid-drive from Specialized, Trek, Giant, Canondale.

A throttle is much over-rated, unless you physically have trouble pedaling. Auto-assist engages when you pedal, on all ebikes.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

 

[EMGX]

@jdiner - I did end up converting one too, thread here: https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/specialized-roll-hub-conversion-q-a.31055/
The bike is now 'three bikes ago' - she is now on a new Giant Stance E+1, some seven thousand dollars later. The good news is that it's easy to resell ebikes, the demand far outstrips the supply of them. I've spent about fifteen thousand on ebikes since getting into the ebike scene. It's a lot of fun, but we don't mess around with anything sub-standard now - only top-brand models and yamaha drive preferred. The others are good, Bosche, Shimano, Brose (specialized) in that order - just make sure you have a reliable dealer to provide warranty should you need it. Yamaha mid-drives in the Giant bikes are nearly bulletproof.

Adding a conversion to an existing bike is akin to building a computer or an experimental aircraft, just not quite to the degree. You need a healthy dose of DIY ability, technical troubleshooting ability, and a keen sense of cause and effect. Knowledge of electrical testing and wiring is essential.

If you're a crafty do-it-yourselfer with a willingness to tinker, it's an inexpensive option compared to a high quality factory bike. The ones you listed don't really fall into that category, but can provide reasonable service nonetheless.

A hub-drive bike is fine for casual riding, they do provide assist, but are not nearly to the integration degree and performance as a big-3 mid-drive from Specialized, Trek, Giant, Canondale.

A throttle is much over-rated, unless you physically have trouble pedaling. Auto-assist engages when you pedal, on all ebikes.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Jdiner,
Very respectfully, I disagree on a few of the points above. YMMV
If you are comfortable/familiar with bicycle basic mechanics then installation of a front hub, rear hub or mid drive motor is very simple and straight forward for compatible bikes - the Electra Townie is a very standard looking bike (I had one for my wife for a couple days before returning it because of a defective brake issue).
I found the two geared hub motors (one front and one rear) that I recently installed on bikes had excellent performance and rideability, not as refined as my Yamaha PW-SE powered gravel bike but still very good even on some very hilly routes my wife and I ride.
I agree that for some bikes/riders a throttle is over rated but not in all situations. I'm going to install the throttle on my wife's Biria front hub assist bike. When she stops on an uphill grade she has difficulty initially pedaling the bike the first 1/4 or so crank turn until the PAS kicks in. That wasn't an issue with the Tongsheng mid drive that I installed on another bike for her - the TS gives immediate assist without the 1/4 turn lag of a PAS bike.
To me the purpose built ebikes seem very over priced especially compared to adding a kit to a bike that you already have and like.

Here is my wife's Biria bike that I installed a geared front hub motor on. Cost of bike new was ~$700 plus ebike motor/peripherals (most of which I already had) vs $2.250 for a lower power, otherwise similar Biria geared front hub bike. If you are a unafraid DIYer check HarryS posts about used Bafang geared front hub motors, including wheel and Schwalbe tire, that you can get shipped for under $100 - add a KT 11a/22a controller and display for maybe another $100 and a $250(ish) battery and you could have a conversion of your Townie for ~$500.


Here is the $2,250 purpose built version

 

[Browneye]

It's all good as long as everything works. If it doesn't, it if blows up or quits, and YOU built it, YOU have to figure out what went wrong. Hopefully that doesn't ruin it for you like it did for me. I want to RIDE my bikes, not tinker with them.

If you can't start on a hill you're in the wrong gear. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. LOL

Good luck and have fun with it!