Dropper post internal routing on mid drive eBike?

[Tom Clancy's eBike]

I need to change the frayed internal cable of the dropper post but I don't want to unscrew a lot of stuff from the eBike.
I've found non relative video of internal dropper post routing for eBike.
So what is the simplest way of changing the internal cable instead of an overhaul?

 

[Alaskan]

To do a proper job of removing the old cable and routing a new one on a mid-drive bike should involve dropping the motor down off the frame far enough be able to carefully routing the cable so as not to interfere with derailleur cables, rear brake hose and light cables. Leaving the motor in place risks causing problems with one or more of the above. There is just no a lot of room down there and lots of black spaghettis snaking its way through. If your bike is still under warranty, dropping down the motor could risk voiding that warranty. No point in saving an hour of shop time and losing your warranty in the process, plus there is the real possibility of causing problems with other cables or hydraulic lines. I do most of my own work but that is one I would rather pass on to a pro.

 

[Haystacks]

To do a proper job of removing the old cable and routing a new one on a mid-drive bike should involve dropping the motor down off the frame far enough be able to carefully routing the cable so as not to interfere with derailleur cables, rear brake hose and light cables. Leaving the motor in place risks causing problems with one or more of the above. There is just no a lot of room down there and lots of black spaghettis snaking its way through. If your bike is still under warranty, dropping down the motor could risk voiding that warranty. No point in saving an hour of shop time and losing your warranty in the process, plus there is the real possibility of causing problems with other cables or hydraulic lines. I do most of my own work but that is one I would rather pass on to a pro.

Nonsense. All you need to do is pull the frayed cable out (cut the frayed section off if poss), leave the outer sheath in place inside the bike, take the new cable, lightly lube it and send it through the sheath, and reconnect. Need a 'pro' to change a dropper cable, pmsl.

 

[Alaskan]

Some of us prefer to do a thorough and careful job when it comes to cable changes. All to often replacing the frayed cable but not the outer casing leads to issues caused by interior grooves or strands of wire, left behind by the old frayed cable that shortens the life of the replacement cable. I like my work to not cause more problems downstream.

Obviously others prefer to do the minimum and deal with the fallout if and when it occurs.

Different strokes for different folks.

 

[Haystacks]

My work is grade A, trying to diminish that by spurious mudslinging is pathetic, note i said to trim the frayed section off, decent cutters will leave a clean edge, good qualty housing like lex sl allows for cable changes without any problems. Don't be butthurt because you overthought a problem and decided the best course of action is to throw money at it, it isn't.

 

[JRA]

The question I would ask is where it is frayed and how it became frayed to begin with? If it is in a place that is visible by eye that means that the cable housing is most likely sound and replacing the cable as Haystacks suggests is fine.

It is just like replacing any cable on a bike whether derailleur or brake. In addition to a rub of light lube on the cable I also like to put a few drops in the cable housing also before inserting the cable itself. Always apply a cable end cap or solder to the end beyond the clamping point when done to prevent fraying.

 

[Tom Clancy's eBike]

Well I have Jagwire Pro Dropper kit with FLEX-SL housing that is meant for 0.8mm cable.
My current housing isn't for 0.8mm cable. It is probably for 1.5mm. So the housing might need to be replaced.
I don't want to drop the motor even though I have the tool. But it is a waste of time just changing the cables this way.

 

[PDoz]

Well I have Jagwire Pro Dropper kit with FLEX-SL housing that is meant for 0.8mm cable.
My current housing isn't for 0.8mm cable. It is probably for 1.5mm. So the housing might need to be replaced.
I don't want to drop the motor even though I have the tool. But it is a waste of time just changing the cables this way.

You may get lucky by drawing the new sheath through rather than needing to drop the motor - I've had success by running an extra long internal cable through 2 x lengths of sheath , and using the cable to effectively pull through the new sheath / push out the old one. Worst case scenario , something gets jammed and you have to start dropping motors / creating new routing issues for yourself etc

or throw big bucks and go wireless

 

[Tom Clancy's eBike]

You may get lucky by drawing the new sheath through rather than needing to drop the motor - I've had success by running an extra long internal cable through 2 x lengths of sheath , and using the cable to effectively pull through the new sheath / push out the old one. Worst case scenario , something gets jammed and you have to start dropping motors / creating new routing issues for yourself etc

or throw big bucks and go wireless

Did you pull out a lot of dirt as well? I might just pull out the old cable first and push in the new cable. Then pull out the old housing and push in the new housing.